I am having trouble taking apart my motor......I just bought a U12 BB and im trying to get the valve springs out, but i cant..........i have a tool that compreses the spring but then what do i do?? what do i pull the top little round thing thats inside the spring?? Im a noob to rebuilding a motor and all the help you can give me i would apprieciate it......thanks....
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine2-1002.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine2-1003.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine2-1007.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine2-1008.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine2-1009.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine3001.jpg

Is the head on or off the block? If it's on, use this: https://www.gspec.com/p-5989-valve-keeper-remover-and-installer.aspx

If it's off, use this: http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi13.html 3rd one down. AutoZone rents it. Make sure you pressurize the cylinder if the head is on, or use rope.

its off the head...........its my new engine that im building........

thanks man.....ill go to autozone tomorrow and rent it............preciate it.......

ok so i got that tool..............and now i cant get it too work.......here are a few pics......please tell me what im doing wrong.........cause if this is suppose to be the easy part, i definitly dont wanna put them in.......
here are the pics of what i am doing, doing the same thing the instructions say to do.......
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine2-2009.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine2-2010.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine2-2011.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine2-2013.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine2-2015.jpg

The pointed end needs to be on the valve.

I use both to remove and install, I use the gspec one to remove if the head is off and another one, like a snap on kind, to install.

You have to compress the spring to the point where the valve lock comes off, your pics are blurry but take off the shim and you can see the valve lock.

i cant get the point part on the valve, it just doesnt fit right..........its gotta be user error, just cant figure out how to correct myself.............

is there anyone in the tampa bay area that could come over and show me?? not tonight, but sometime this weekend

In the box, there should be another part that touches the retainer, that has more on an angle on it. I'm talking about the black part. I've used that same tool on a SR20 and a QR25 had, no problems with either. If you are just trying to remove the valves, use a deep socket, and put it on the retainer. Give the socket a good wack, and the keepers should pop out. You should let a machine shop install the valves, since you will want to have them lapped before reinstalling. You want the valve and the valve face to match.

i was planning on having someone do it, specially cause im having a hard enough time with taking them out.............

the one on there is the angled one......the other one is flat.......but i kindof had it earlyier, but i couldnt get that middle circle out, what can i use to pull it out with.....


and i want to pull everything out, im getting it port n polished...

Use a small magnet.

If you're just taking them off, a hammer and a large enough socket will do the trick just fine. Make sure to do it in a clear area so you can find all the retainers. Stuff some rags around the spring so they don't fly too far.

Putting them back on, the Snap On tool works the best: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=80816&group_ID=1575&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

BTW, does your camera have a "macro" setting? Those pictures are horrible... :D

finally got the valve springs out had to use this tool though.....the other one didnt work.........
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine2-4002.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine2-4003.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn45/Straight1_8/My%20car/Engine%20shots/engine2-4004.jpg
the last pic is of the things that the valves come through........do they come out....idk what there called.....how do i get them out if they do??.....
and is $100 to port-n-polish the head a good price???

of course that is a good price, but is it good/quality wotk?

they do mainly V8 and shit like that.......but ive seen there work and it looks great......they will also bore out my block for $70 and resurface my crank for $115......and $300 to put my whole engine back together if i bring them everything......

Be very careful on where you get your machining done. Do your research on the shop you are going to. Have you seen their work on imports? You may think a engine is a engine but everything differs.

What do they use to bore? torque plate?what kind of material is used for resurfcaing the crank? do they know what finish to go to? will they magnaflux the crank to ensure it's good?will they suface the block too? Do they know the tolerances of the motor? Its easy to put a motor together, but assembling it with the proper clearances is a diff story. The prices may seem great but you may end up spending more in the long run if not done right first.

You live in FL there are many peeps there that can help you out. It seems this is your first sr20 motor or even import...I dunno. Search the forum more and you will have a better understanding on our motors. Knowledge=power.

The prices may seem great but you may end up spending more in the long run if not done right first. boy if that isnt the truth i dont know what is!! your in FL thats where half the sr guys are! im sure some locals can lend a hand to a fellow member :biggthump

thanks guys will do.................im in tampa though aint many SR guys out here, there down in Miami....

"the last pic is of the things that the valves come through........do they come out....idk what there called.....how do i get them out if they do??....."

They are called valve guides and are pressed into the head. Any good shop that does valve jobs should be able to press in new ones. Make sure they are familiar with aluminum heads. Pressing into aluminum is different than pressing into iron. They should be replaced if the engine has high miles on it.

thank you old guy..........stock ones are fine for high hp too right?? what about valves, should i get oversized ones??

You can get better ones from JWT for about the same cost as new Nissan ones. Make sure you specify whether you have a DE or DET head (53J variant).

Regarding machining, make sure you tell them to remove all freeze plugs and flush after machining, then reinstall new ones. If you don't do this, you'll end up with a bunch of shavings in your oil, which is bad.

Also, regarding porting, what are your goals? If it's NA power, just enlarging the bowl, port matching and smoothing the inner radius is all you need. Turbo, you might want to actually enlarge the port, but keep overall velocity in mind when you do this. I'm leery of someone charging $100 for "headwork".