Do these just bolt up or are the layouts different.
I have searched and found nothing on this. I am just asking because I can get a gtir ported and polished head for cheaper then i could port and polish mine and i know the gtir head is made for higher rpm and HP. But dont know if it is feasible

i have a fwd sr20 head on my rwd s13 bottom end. no need for the cas. running electromotive tec2 standalone that is run off the crank trigger wheel.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/4sfed180sx/sr20dett/DSCN0243small.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/4sfed180sx/sr20dett/DSC05047.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/4sfed180sx/sr20dett/DSC05046.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/4sfed180sx/sr20dett/DSCN0247.jpg

Wow Sweet
Looks Awsome

Realize the R's head bolts are bigger then your block's, so you will have to get it machined to match. Other then that it should be like bolting up any other FWD head (other then the VE) to a RWD block. You going to keep the ITBs on it? A well P&P R head flows damn good numbers; outside the VE, it's the best flowing 2.0L head. Also note the the hemisphereical design will drop your CR by 0.2 (ie: 8.5:1 will become 8.3:1).

The additional cost of getting the GTiR head to fit, might negate your cost savings of doing port work on your head. Food for thought...