Sup guys n 'GIRL'hehehe, I am currently in the process of removing my DE to get ready t o drop my DET. Im going back to Uni. in a few weeks so I want the engine out ASAP. I wont be putting the DET in for awhile but I plan on purchasing it and doing a complete engine rebuild aswell as the turbo. Anyways if you guys could shed some tips or experience I'd appreciate it. Everything is ready to go beside the following:


1) How the hell do I remove the knock sensor from beneath the car? It seems impossible, when you can see it you have no room to put your hand up to disconnect it, when you can get your hand in there you are now in a position where you can no longer see it???

2)How the f:confused: ck do I remove the clutch cable from my tranny as I am dropping that along with the engine?


3)How do I remove my A/C system? I tried a monkey idea yesterday and the b!tch started hissssssssssin at me like a snake.What do I do because those pipes are pressurized?


Help me :'(

What the hell are you doing Stewart??:D Good to see the swap is beginning.

1) The plug on the knock sensor has a metal clip holding it on, so you need to get a screwdriver in there to pry the clip off, then the plug will just come off.

2) Have someone in the car engage the clutch than snap it off the tranny (it's a real bitch)

3) Just unscrew the nut (17mm) I think on the firewall and run for your life when the freon shoots out. After the cloud settles, remove all the lines and the compressor.

Good luck!

If you need any help, shoot me an email and I'll try to come down to help if I can.

Later

Thanx Dave, I started on Thursday and basically disconnected all harnesses and sensors, coolant hoses etc.

I loosened the bolt where the compressed gas goes into the compressor and this green gas started sputtering and I was like that aint cool. Aint that shit like poison? So after i filled my garage with smoke I said to myself this is not good. So I gave up.

I see the metal clip on the knocksensor but the ground where I have to lie I placed a carpet on so I wouldnt get my back dirty and cold and I kinda spilt some coolant all over the carpet when I was disconnecting hoses so Its kinda wet. When I see the metal clipI cant manage to get my hand all the way up there its really awkward.

I dont even think I can comprehend the chore of removing the clutch cable.


I'd ask you to come and help but I wouldnt wanna make you come all that way just to remove it. I will howeverharass you to help me when I finish the rebuild and decide to install;)

My friends dad has been a certified nissan mechanic since they were entitled Datsun so I guess he's gonna bring his @$$ over to help.

Let me know if you need me.

Good Luck!

why dont you just remove the compressor from the bracket on the engine and then pull the motor out..
Sean

Originally posted by sleeping 91ser
why dont you just remove the compressor from the bracket on the engine and then pull the motor out..
Sean

I'm actually dropping the engine instead of pulling it. Will I also need to remove the alternator to do this to get clearance

yeah i would drop the alternator out to give you more room its not like its hard to remove it.
Sean

firstly, isnt that gas poisonous? i was told that its inhert gas and can be heavy on the lungs which could cause suffication??

the clutch isnt that hard to do. apply some pressure onto the arm coming out the box with a metal bar, then wind back the big nut type thing that sits inside the metal bracket, once youve freed it a bit, you can slide the bracket off the arm. Then pull the cable backwards from the rubber grommet on the arm that holds it to the back of the box, then squeeze out the grommet and the cable is free.

yeah its also against the law to relieve the ac system anywhere other than a registered shop, its supposed to be really bad for the environment.
Sean

I thought so, im working on my ride again in about 2 weeks time. Im removing my old setup for a bigger t4 setup and can see i might run into problems with one of the main AC pipes, so i thought of going into the delaers and getting them to empty my AC system, then ill refill it once im done playing with my ride. Anyways, the cars nearly 5 years old so i think the AC could do with some new gas.

Originally posted by CanadianG
1) How the hell do I remove the knock sensor from beneath the car? It seems impossible, when you can see it you have no room to put your hand up to disconnect it, when you can get your hand in there you are now in a position where you can no longer see it???

2)How the f:confused: ck do I remove the clutch cable from my tranny as I am dropping that along with the engine?


3)How do I remove my A/C system? I tried a monkey idea yesterday and the b!tch started hissssssssssin at me like a snake.What do I do because those pipes are pressurized?


Help me :'( [/B]

1) You take a small screwdriver and put it on the shiny metal clip and push up on both ends. I did this while lying on my back under the car. You have to do it by feel not by sight. The clip is shaped like a square "C". If the "C" is pointing down then you push it up (like mine was) if it is pointing up then you need to try and get the screwdriver under it and pull it down.

2) There is a 10 MM bolt on the clutch cable. You loosen that first. Then you adjust the clutch to were it is full soft and just slip the cable out.

3) You don't discounect the AC hoses. Instead you disconect the compressor from the engine. You then take some rope and tie it up to not put preasure on the lines. When you pull the engine you just move it out of the way. If forget if it slides into the same place the Radiator used to be (you already took that out to gain extra space, Right?).

A couple other hints. Raise the car and take the engine and tranny out from the bottom. It seems harder until you have done it once and realize how much easier it is. Lots of room from below. Don't forgot the sensor that is plugged into the tranny under the battery.

Steve has it exactly right.

1) You will find getting the connector off the knock sensor to be much easier if you remove the halfshafts. If you haven't done that yet, do it. The halfshafts get in the way of a lot of things. I've never had much of a problem with them removed.

2) As Steve said, just loosen the adjuster all the way and it comes right off. Easy peasy.

3) DO NOT disconnect the AC system. I always unbolt it from the engine and just use rope or a bungee to hang the compressor.

I personally would rather not loosen the clutch cable: you'll lose your fine-tuned adjustment that way :mad:

Instead, use a pry bar to push/pry the clutch are back, and then there will be enough slack in the cable to pull it right off of the arm. Do the same when you have to reinstall it, then you won't have to fudge with a: loosening more nuts than you have to and b: you won't have to readjust your cable later.

Originally posted by NismoSER
I personally would rather not loosen the clutch cable: you'll lose your fine-tuned adjustment that way :mad:

I would assume he would be getting a performanc clutch in there since he's doing a DET. If that is the case, he'll have to adjust the clutch anyhow. It only takes a few minutes to adjust. Seems alot easier then prying the clutch lever.


IMHO
;)

Ok, I haven't removed my rad yet. I didnt think it was necessary, eventhough they advise it in the FSM(what the hell would nissan know right?) I guess that'll be step one today.

Then I'll disconnect the A/C compressor, then the knock sensor which to me has been the hardest thing so far. Ahwell, if all else fails i can be a butcher and cut the wires right? LOL

My only trouble rerally is the clutch cable. I dont see at all how this disconnects. I guess thats the dilemma right now. As for the clutch itself its been bought since november 2001 maybe 10,000km. I was wondering can I keep this clutch and upgrade pressure plate for extra grabbing or what? Im not a drag racer might take it to the track just to test it out but that wont be my main intentions. Anyone have suggestions?

Off to the garage I go......

update:

knock sensor : off

clutch cable : off (I should be shot for how easy this was to remove)

A/c condensor: off

Alternator : off

radiator : off(this made a major difference seeing the front engine bay)

cross member and front/rear motormount bolts : off


only problem stopping me from dropping the engine is removing my front axels. How do you do this? I cant seem to force out my control arm? Is it not one bolt on the bushing? Help

The axles are pretty easy. Undo the two bolts that hold the strut onto the steering knuckle. You'll need 2 17mm sockets/wrenches. You can then swivel the whole hub/brake assembly out of the way after tapping the end of the axle out.

For the drivers side, use a screwdrive (or my favorite, a pickle fork) to pry it out. For the passenger side, there are 3 12mm bolts that hold the axle to a support bearing. The axle should slide out, but sometimes they like to stick.

Oh, and don't forget to drain your tranny fluid, unless you like it flowing into your mouth as the oil pours out of the axle holes on the tranny :o

EDIT: Oh, I forgot. Remove the hubnuts!! 36 mm, torqued on at almost 200 lb/ft. Good luck with those if you don't have airtools, they are a biatch!

I just realized you have a G20. Don't know if unbolting the knuckle from the strut would work, because i'm pretty sure the G20 doesn't use struts up front. :eek:

I just pulled a sr20de out of a g20 myself and it wasnt that bad. to get the axles out you'll need to undo the hub bolts and the on the top wishbone there is a 17mm nut and bolt. Take that out so you can swing the one part of the shock tower. You'll also need to take the cotter pin out of the tie rod end and take that loose. Then just tap the axle through the hub and it should pop out. Don't forget the 3 bolts on the back of the block that support the carrier bearing for the passenger side. Just give a quick hard jerk and it shouls pop out. And like nismo said, drain yer tranny first so you dont make a mess. if they dont pull out get someone under there with a screw driver and have them pry while you pull. If you have any other questions PM as i just pulled my complete drive train 3 days ago. Oh yea i'll be calling about those seats tomorrow so look out for a PM.

there 32mm nuts not 36mm, and also turn the wheel to the leftabout 75% to get it to come out of the hub. sameon the other side too except you turn it right.