I was in the market for a oil cooler and really didn't like the idea of paying near or over $500 so when I saw the Isis kit was around $250 I decided to give it a shot, on the same token I didn't want something that was poorly made. When i bought my radiator I had the same problem and ended up settling on a Mishimoto that was half the price of every other aluminum radiator on the market, I was real happy with the performance so I figured I would give the Isis oil cooler a shot. I had heard people say the Isis parts were no good and go with greddy blah blah blah. I heard the same about Mishimoto and that turned out to be a great choice so I ordered a kit from Enjuku since I live in florida it only takes one day to get stuff after I order. When i opened the box and began the inspection of what I had bought everything appered to be pretty much the same quality as a more expensive kit so I began the install process and tryed to take as many pics as possible along the way.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/IMG00128.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/IMG00129.jpg
Next I figured out what tool I needed for the install to save you some trouble ill list them
15/16 and 7/8 wrenchs or adjustable wrench
philips head screw driver
10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 27mm sockets (the 27 is for the oem oil pressure sensor)
teflon tape or plumbers paste
I took apart the adapter plate and made sure to put teflon on all connections to avoid leaks
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/IMG00131.jpg
At this point it was time to find out where to mount everything and make sure all the parts fit without having to cut or rip things apart to bad. Heres where I mounted the oil cooler it was made easy by not having a/c parts in my car but if you do a few self tappers and 2 L brackets and your in. I had to remove the hood latch to get the drill in the spot i needed cause I really didn't want to take the front clip and FMIC off to do something so simple. I placed the cooler in the correct spot marked the holes with a sharpie then drilled 4 pilot holes with a 1/8th drill bit, then put the cooler back and put the self tappers in with a philips head.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/IMG00135.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/IMG00137.jpg
After some measuring of the steel lines and the direction i wanted to go everything was lookin real easy so i ran the lines along the frame rail on the passanger side around the radiator directly in front of the rail and into the oil cooler. This is where the 15/16 wrench came in so i could tighten the lines to the cooler.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/100_02051.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/100_02141.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/100_0204.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/100_02031.jpg
Now since the easy stuff was done I took the oil filter off and tryed to put the adapter plate on which is where i realized the stock pressure sensor was in the way. I decided to take it out with the 27mm socket and run a pressure gauge off port from the block. The mounting position for the plate are limited due to the motor mount being below, the intake support and alternator being to the right and the stock manifold its self being above. So the only way I had was to the left which is where the pressure sensor was if you have a aftermarket intake manifold then you can just mount it in the 12 oclock position and skip the next step.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/102_1353.jpg
Once I put the adapter plate back on I realized this wasn't gonna work either due to it being in the way of where the lines bolted onto it. Then I decided on not reuseing the oem sensor and just running the pressure gauge off a side port on the adapter.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/100_01971.jpg
I had to now find something to plug the port off the block so i took the sensor to the parts store and picked up a M10x1.0 which uses a allen key to put it in so theres no head to make the adapter plate sit cock eyed. A little teflon tape and it was in, then I put the plate on and now it sat flush.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/100_02071.jpg
Now that I was back on track it was time to bolt the adapter on fearing that the lack of room under there was going to be a problem I put the oil lines for the cooler and my pressure gauge on then after removing the fuel filter(to make life alittle easier) I put some new oil on the O ring for the plate that goes against the engine then carefully mounted the adapter with the silver threaded adapter. The kit comes with 2 a silver and bronse that have 2 different size ends for a largr filter, the 27mm socket comes in handy again here to secure the threaded adapter onto the threads where your filter use to be. Heres a few pics of it all mounted up before i put the filter back on its not as tight of a fit as it looks.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/100_02001.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/100_01981.jpg
Next was screw the filter on and put my fuel filter back on, after running my pressure lines into the car for the gauge I put a quart of oil in to make up for the larger capacity due to the cooler. Took a pic from under the car.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q1/banegraphix/100_02101.jpg
Now it was time to start old girl up and see if I was leaking or if the pressure gauge was hooked up properly. After letting it warm up from a idle and inspecting for leaks while it was doing so it was time for a quick drive to build some heat and pressure to break it in. About an hour later me and my heavy foot came home and did a final inspection that was the same as the one before the drive, no problems at all.

Just like the Mishimoto radiator this too was well worth the money. Aside from the few interuptions to run to the store and figuring out mounting spots and positions this install can be done in under 2 hours by yourself. I should have ordered the filter relocation kit when I ordered the cooler kit but I guess thats next and for another day, I give a update in a week or so to let everyone know how its holding up if you have any questions feel free to ask. I highly recommend running this kit especially in the financial times now not everyone has 500 plus to drop on a cooler kit and if you do why do it if you don't have to. The Isis product line is a more cost effective solution than the big names brands and the quality and overall performance is still there, I know im gonna look into the other products they make in the future. Heres a link to Enjuku racing to see some of the other Isis products as well as the oil cooler kit.
<a href="http://enjukuracing.com">Enjuku Racing</a>
if the link didn't show up its enjukuracing.com

Without the OEM pressure sensor does your oil light stay on in the car?

I assume you're not running a thermostat? If not and this car is street-driven, you should give strong consideration to adding one.

It has yet to come on, I had the battery disconnected when I did the install cause the sandwich plate was close to the starter and I didn't want to hit it with a wrench.

Yes the car is daily driven as well as track driven and i have yet to see any issue from not having a thermostat. Why would you recommend adding one?

Yes the car is daily driven as well as track driven and i have yet to see any issue from not having a thermostat. Why would you recommend adding one?
Running your oil to cold is just as bad, if not worse, than running it hot. Oil doesn't flow as well when cold and running the car hard with cold oil is probably not that good on the bearings.

Just an FYI, most all oil T-stats are set to open above 170F... that's probably a good sign that this is the optimal temp for oil.

Yes the car is daily driven as well as track driven and i have yet to see any issue from not having a thermostat. Why would you recommend adding one?Mine doesn't have one either, but mine is purely roadrace/autocross. People say your engine wears faster, but I'm not sure I believe it.

Do you have a magnetic oil drain plug? Filter cutter? Keep up with these two things are you should be fine.

Just an FYI, most all oil T-stats are set to open above 170F... that's probably a good sign that this is the optimal temp for oil.Ideal operating temperature is 200-230°F, and the car should never be driven hard before the oil temp reaches 160°F.

yea i have a magnetic drain plug. I have heard from a few people its bad to not have a thermostat and some say its not a problem, my brother is a engine builder for a performance shop in PA and he says i really dont need one. Ill just keep an eye on my temp gauges

I guess I'm guilty of relaying what I've heard about thermostats, but have not yet read a convincing argument or seen empirical proof. Way to go me. :/

Ideal operating temperature is 200-230°F, and the car should never be driven hard before the oil temp reaches 160°F.
I mean't to say it was a minimum, not optimal. FWIW, my oil temps never break above 140 when driven daily... hence why I am adding a T-stat to my setup.

yea i have a magnetic drain plug. I have heard from a few people its bad to not have a thermostat and some say its not a problem, my brother is a engine builder for a performance shop in PA and he says i really dont need one. Ill just keep an eye on my temp gauges
Eh, I looked at your sig and your in Florida... it's warm enough down there you probably don't need to worry about a T-stat. If you were up north, I'd say its best to have one.

Get rid of the Fram oil filter. :)

If i lived up north i would more than likely add the thermostat

the fram is already gone and replaced with a penzoil

You do realize that Isis is a knockoff company?

Besides that, it looks good. Good install.

Yes i'm fully aware that Isis is a knock off company. Don't get me wrong I love the bigger companys but I really don't like paying twice as much for something that works just the same.

Glad you liked the install

buy real parts... save greddy.

if you buy knockoffs - we'll never have good parts again because these people copy the heavily R&D'd parts from real companies and without the R&D and new products all we'll be left with is junk.

ill never buy from ken @ enjuku again.

ill never buy from ken @ enjuku again.b/c he sells knockoff parts?

yes... that is correct.

its one thing to get some crappy ebay stuff and have it fall apart - but it's another thing to have a shop like enjuku - that people once looked to for their quality name brand equipment - start selling a direct knockoff of the REAL equipment that they still sell...

AND THEY ARE PROMOTING THE KNOCKOFF!

i dont like it. I'll continue to not buy knock offs.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q19/smelly240/for%20sale/SaveGreddySig.jpg

buy real parts... save greddy.

if you buy knockoffs - we'll never have good parts again because these people copy the heavily R&D'd parts from real companies and without the R&D and new products all we'll be left with is junk.

ill never buy from ken @ enjuku again.


Greddy pretty much put themselves out of business with there high prices. Why would I want to buy lets say a turbo kit for example from greddy when i can get one that would out perform theres for alot less. I understand the R&D part but if a company doesn't want to keep up with the times in the ecomomy there signing there own death certificate. As far as never buying from Enjuku again thats retarded, im sure other companies are selling parts like this one too so aryou gonna stop buying from shops all together?

Regardless of climate, a thermostat should be used to get the oil up to operating temp and keep it there. The Mocal unit I'm using flows 10% through the cooler when the thermostat is closed.

I wasn't aware of that thanks for the info.