I know that if you change camber it will change toe in a big way. But will a small change in caster require a new alignment. I just pushed my Camber caster plate back about .25 inch to kill a rubbing sound and to help balance the caster R/L. It drives just fine. Same as before. Really don't want to kill my tires but I am busy right now also.

In caster, toe-change is determined by vertical distance between tie-rod attachment point on the hub and the ball joint, and the tie-rod angle. In addition, the tie-rods drop towards the wheel, so rotating the strut top rearward increases the tie-rod droop (since it is a trailing steering rack). This effectively shortens the length of the tie-rod and should create toe-out.

Increase caster - toe-out
Decrease caster - toe-in.

Originally posted by Slartibartfast
In caster, toe-change is determined by vertical distance between tie-rod attachment point on the hub and the ball joint, and the tie-rod angle. In addition, the tie-rods drop towards the wheel, so rotating the strut top rearward increases the tie-rod droop (since it is a trailing steering rack). This effectively shortens the length of the tie-rod and should create toe-out.

Increase caster - toe-out
Decrease caster - toe-in.

Thanks. My alignment was set at .02 on each wheel. This was just on the edge of being within factory spec. Factory spec is 0-.16 for each wheel or a total of .24. Is the toe-out or toe-in. This really is confusing me. I assume toe-out is positive and toe-in is negative. I am no longer sure.

Originally posted by 98sr20ve

This really is confusing me. I assume toe-out is positive and toe-in is negative. I am no longer sure.

I don't know. Toe plates are only like $60 and I have found them very useful and easy to work with.

Off the top of my head, I don't know how to interpret negative toe. Toe-in and toe-out, though, are descriptive.