would a cap from a 91 300zx turbo do the trick? i can get em for 8 bucks.

You need to determine with 100% for sure how hot your engine is running. It would be easy to factor that out with an aftermarket temp gauge.

well in that case the 240 is off the road untill further notice. most likely untill i sell it

awe dont give up yet matty, i *** for a fact there is a ka w/p pulley on there, it might be under driving the water pump, because whenever i had that 240 and it hit H , all i had to do to cool it down was rev it up to 3 grand for 5 seconds and the needle would drop instantly to midway thats my guess, i really cant think of ne reason why a new radiator, with 2 12 inch fans on max would overheat, (even at idle or driving?) a w/p pulley from a det will work, the block are the same (52f) source one on zilvia.net they can be had for 10$ shipped if u haggle people.

btw i got some hot 18" inch konigs ill trade u for that 240sx :) lol

Of course you can run it for 30 minutes or however long until the car USUALLY starts heating u without the thermostat to determine whether thats it or not. Obviously if it doesnt heat up your thermostat isnt opening or closing right. And yes it is bad if you run it on a daily basis in cold temperature but your just testing it out.

And here in Miami it doesnt get too cold. I ran ran my boosted nx without a thermostat for over a year until i sold it and it ran perfect. I have actually done that to a couple of cars.

Of course you can run it for 30 minutes or however long until the car USUALLY starts heating u without the thermostat to determine whether thats it or not.
But... wouldn't it be so much easier to pull the T-stat and throw it in some hot water (hotter than 175F) and watch it open up. I don't know about you, but draining/refilling the cooling system is something I try not to do that often. At least just get a replacement one (there not that expensive) and be done with it.

And here in Miami it doesnt get too cold. I ran ran my boosted nx without a thermostat for over a year until i sold it and it ran perfect. I have actually done that to a couple of cars.
It can be done, but is it something you want to suggest to others? Running the car colder longer in the morning, can't be all that good for the bearings life...

But... wouldn't it be so much easier to pull the T-stat and throw it in some hot water (hotter than 175F) and watch it open up....

At one point on Car Talk, those guys said this wasn't the most accurate test. I forget why they said.. I would just through a new one in for $5.

first off dave really the rims i just sold you cmon dude. second i already have another stat for it i just need to put it in. som1 sugested that the rad cap might be bad and not holding the correct pressure. i dont think its the fact the ka pully is there because if you watch this vid i have its bouncing right back up after i rev it out its wont let me imbed the vid here so here is the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDFnrQBxJDM

That's easy. Your sender is not compatible with your gauge. Your engine temp will not fluctuate in realtime that quickly.

Plus the OEM Temp Gauge has basically 3 settings, cold, operating temp, and hot. Its not a variable gauge. so if you see it moving around that quickly, something is not right with the electrics.

I don't know about 240s, but this can happen when the JDM sender is used with the USDM Gauge.

At one point on Car Talk, those guys said this wasn't the most accurate test. I forget why they said.. I would just through a new one in for $5.

That is the exact test show in the FSM.

That is the exact test show in the FSM.

Did I say it wasn't?

I found the link. They do advocate the test, but warn that a thermostat may be finicky or sporadic. And they further suggest to just change the thermostat anyway, since its so cheap.

Did I say it wasn't?

I found the link. They do advocate the test, but warn that a thermostat may be finicky or sporadic. And they further suggest to just change the thermostat anyway, since its so cheap.

Never said you did, just stating that the FSM has putting the thermostat in water as the test for it. I've never done that, since in order to test it you have to remove it, so I just buy a new one.

I just buy a new one.

I knew you would agree with me, eventually. :poke:

Maybe on changing a themostat......

lol thanks guys *** be doin that tomorrow whilst its warm out (whoping 45 degrees)

well i should have guessed the termostat passed the test it opened in hot water unfortunetly this answers no questions. im putting a new one in and taking it for a drive to see if mine was bad but just opend by accadent lol.

That's easy. Your sender is not compatible with your gauge. Your engine temp will not fluctuate in realtime that quickly.

Plus the OEM Temp Gauge has basically 3 settings, cold, operating temp, and hot. Its not a variable gauge. so if you see it moving around that quickly, something is not right with the electrics.

I don't know about 240s, but this can happen when the JDM sender is used with the USDM Gauge.



yea i never did change out the temp senders i havem in a bucket in the garage lol whoops

My motor does not have the bleeder plug next to the thermostat housing.

Can I just disconnect that cap by the heater hoses that go into the firewall and let the car idle/add coolant?

What other options do I have to bleed the system.

you can drain the system from the bottom of the radiator, there is a drain plug, if you want to bleed the system pull the cap off the top of the radiator, and run the car, and air trapped in the system should bubble its way out, also give the engine a little revving, and while the air bubbles out, pour more coolant in.