i checked the fluids all filled. im ***** try replacing the thermostat and if that doesnt work get a det water pump and pully does anyone know if they will bolt up to a silvia q de? i assume so just want to make shure. also anyone have any other ideas to get the temp down? my fans work but arent hooked real great to the radiator. its on a sil q de+t i have a aftermarket radiator from cx racing

overheating... as in fluids boiling over, temp gauge pegging on 'H', or what? Do you still have AC, are you using a FMIC now, these will make things run alittle hotter? Is the car overheating in town or the hwy... more details.

det waterpump and pulley are the same from DE to DET.

Consider some shrouding... I found some big gaps on the sides of the radiator, plug those up (I used a high-density foam that cut easily) and make sure that all the air gets through the radiator.

You may need to bleed the system really thoroughly, but like ^^^ said, we need more info...

sorry about being vague fluids are boiling and the temp gauge is stuck at h not pegged but says right around the top. i did a little research and found out that the sr water temp sensor doesnt work well with the ka gauge? but that still doesnt explain the fluid boiling. i have my fans hardwired and are always on i have 2 pullers. its mostly around town but if i get on the highway it doesnt cool down or get hotter. im ***** try some shrouding.... i dont mean to sound like an ass but my crank pully has 4 grooves and the water pump has 3. i have the silvia q engine with the det parts bolted up if that help at all. thanks for the help guys

WHAT RAD? the koyos have been giving us problems with overheating for both of our cars. one was switched to a alchemy, the other a stock. both are running fine now.

my roommates talon started runnin hot when we installed a koyo the summer before last. we just leave the heater on now - all the time.

im using a cx racing rad its big and shiny other than that i dont know any specs for it peivios owner put it in

sorry about being vague fluids are boiling and the temp gauge is stuck at h not pegged but says right around the top. i did a little research and found out that the sr water temp sensor doesnt work well with the ka gauge? but that still doesnt explain the fluid boiling.
Still sounds like you need to properly bleed the cooling system.

i have my fans hardwired and are always on i have 2 pullers. its mostly around town but if i get on the highway it doesnt cool down or get hotter. im ***** try some shrouding....
I didn't even run a fan last year and only have the mech fan this year minus the shrouding and have had yet to have issues. Of course I don't live in a large city, so don't see extended idle time in town.

i dont mean to sound like an ass but my crank pully has 4 grooves and the water pump has 3. i have the silvia q engine with the det parts bolted up if that help at all. thanks for the help guys
My DE and DET crank pully is the same 4 grooves, as is the WP pulley on both... so sounds like you have a funky WP pulley (or the wrong one).

WHAT RAD? the koyos have been giving us problems with overheating for both of our cars. one was switched to a alchemy, the other a stock. both are running fine now.
My car runs at 140-170 with the koyo (both sentra and 240) and can run 30+ min sessions on track without to much for heating issues, except on days where ambient temps are above 95F. Nothing wrong with the Koyos... hell there's not that much to them, just a large heat sink not much to go wrong with them :melonscratcher:


my roommates talon started runnin hot when we installed a koyo the summer before last. we just leave the heater on now - all the time.
Maybe, just maybe he didn't bleed the car correctly and has air pockets causing his issues. Just a thought.

^^^ Yeah, through the years on the Mailing List and on, the most common reason for overheating was not properly bleeding the coolant.

Run it without a thermostat

ok thanks a lot for the help guys is it possible that i have the ka pully on there? idk how or why it would be there but if you saw my car you might understand. i read that to bleed the cooling system all you have to do is run it for one minute without the pressure cap? i did that and nothing changed i also found a pinhole leak in the line between the rad and overflow im ***** be replacing that line later today. why would i run it without a termostat cant u damage the engine doing that? plus i live in ny i need my heat its already been snowing here

Don't remove the T-stat, but you might consider replacing yours (or testing it) to make sure that it is opening.

To properly bleed your cooling system you also need to remove the bolt, just below the CAS, on the cast aluminum water inlet piece that your radiator hose connects to to release any trapped air. Don't forget to reinstall the bolt after water starts spitting out ;).

thanks ill test it i already got one from auto zone its one that locks open at like 270 or somthin like that . are there any other bleeder bolts besides that one on the cas or is that it? also any tips on removing the t stat because mine is pretty crowded in that area

i just realized that my rad is higher that the bleed bolt so as long as there is fluid in the rad its just ***** spray out due to gravity. then ill just be filling it up again theres no point to bleeding it. i also assume that this sould be done while the car is running? it prolly help if the stupid overflow tank i bought yesterday from the yard didnt leak grrrrrrrr

Yes there is a point to doing it... trust me, I've bleed my 240 at least 5 times in the last year and needed to bleed it at that bolt everytime. Just because the radiator cap is at a higher point doesn't mean that there still can be air trapped in the system.

Do it when the car is off and the rad cap is off. Undo the bolt slowly till you start hearing hissing (don't completely remove the bolt) then retighten once you start seeing coolant seeping out from the threads of the bolt. If all goes well, you'll loose almost zero coolant.

It also helped to grab the lower hose and squeeze it till you stop hearing/seeing bubbles coming out of the top. This is best done with a funnel sitting tightly in the top so you don't get alot of fluids flowing out when you squeeze the hose.

coolant comes out instantly there is no hissing just coolant lots ant lots of coolant good idea with the hose thou ill try that now

well im ***** be taking it out for a drive to webster about 1/2 hour so we'll se how she does. highway one way streets back

ok so it was better (granted its only like 20 degrees out.) STILL OVERHEATING!!!!!!!!!!!! still boiling the fluid. i think my pump may be bad because at rpm the temp gauge drops then at low rpm it comes right back up. this is really starting to piss me off about to go buy a honda civic dx and drop the sr off at the junk yard where it belongs. need some advice wtf do i do?

Not sure what else to think of here.

If the pump had failed (or the T-stat was stuck closed) somehow then I'd think the passanger side radiator hose would be really hot and the drivers side hose would be cold. It's the only other thing that I can think of... unless your radiator cap is not holding pressure causing what would look like boilover, but then I wouldn't be sure why your temp is getting so hot then.

is it true that the sr water temp sen doesnt work well with the ka water temp gauge? because the cap is kinda crappy it came with the rad so it may be designed for the ka and causing what looks like boilover

just went and checked the drivers side was kinda warm and the pass side wasnt as warm but it wasnt cold .... when i squeezed the pas side one i could hear the coolant in the cap not shure if the caps bad now ill check it out more tomorrow. mc youve been such a big help thanks so much ^_^