I have heard stuff about the NX2000 breaks...ADV22h or something of the sort, but what about "PowerSlot," slotted rotors? Also, what about X-drilled rotors? I think Stillen makes a set right? Anyone have comments on either of these brands, Stillen or PowerSlot? TIA guys.

Ju§tin

but what about "PowerSlot," slotted rotors? Also, what about X-drilled rotors?

They'll do absolutely nothing to stop you better.

Originally posted by MaddMatt


They'll do absolutely nothing to stop you better.


But I thought it helped the guys over at altimas.net to stop better:D :D

X-Drilled rotors or slotted rotors are just are looks??

X drilled and slotted brakes are made for helping with repeated braking... They wont stop you faster than a solid faced disc on the intial stop, it might even take a little longer due to the smaller amount of brake pad contact area. Now take those same discs and stop repeatedly and the x drilled/slotted rotors will hold up better to brake fade.

So unless you are racing, larger diameter solid faced discs are good enough.

Originally posted by civicdragon
X drilled and slotted brakes are made for helping with repeated braking... They wont stop you faster than a solid faced disc on the intial stop, it might even take a little longer due to the smaller amount of brake pad contact area. Now take those same discs and stop repeatedly and the x drilled/slotted rotors will hold up better to brake fade.

So unless you are racing, larger diameter solid faced discs are good enough.

That is so wrong. They have less mass and therefore cannot absorb as much heat as a solid rotor. They will also be more likely to crack under extreme heat.

I may be wrong, but it has been my understanding that X-drilled or slotted rotors help on the basis that they can disapate heat better than the solid rotors because of the venting. While they can crack there are ways to lessen the likely hood, that the high quailty rotors use. I forget how they do it though. I believe the X-drilled have a bevel around the edges of the holes.

Another problem with x-driller or slotted rotors is the act kinda like a cheese grater on your bads.

You're really only going to see real benefit with those if you were constanly running auto-x or doing road races. For street purposes jsut get large @$$ vented rotors and pads from Brembo and your set. :D

My $.02

Well I say you don't need a brake upgrade unless:

A. You Auto-X
B. Have NOS or Turbo and need the stopping power at the end of the 1/4 mile.

:)

Or if you drive like I do :rolleyes:

Brakes convert radial motion to heat by friction. They are not a heat sink, but a radiator. Fade occurs when the rotors, calipers and fluid get too hot. Rotors must shed heat. Cross-drilling improves cooling to a small degree. Rotors do suffer more from stress fractures due to the holes.

With that said, yes, as has been stated in several other threads, slots and cross-drilling are cosmetic on a street car. If you feel you need these on the street, you're driving way too hard for conditions.

I would say slotted can be benefical (depending on the shape of the slots), but not cross drilled as they are too prone to cracking. Look at the rotors on F1, CART, or WRC rally cars. You're not going to see a single x-drilled rotor. Slotted yes, but not x-drilled. Reason why? They'd fall apart under race use.

Khiem

The rotor IS a heat sink. That's it's job. Hold the heat until it can disperse it to the atmosphere. The amount of surface area of the rotor determines how quickly it can disperse the heat to the atmosphere. Would you like for me to go through the calculation of how little drilling a hole in a rotor increases the surface area? Not to mention you are removing mass from the rotor. Less mass means you've reduced it's ability to be a heat sink. Raise your hand if any of this sounds like a good idea to you?

The holes were first put into rotors in the 40s and 50s for outgassing of asbestos brake pads. The days of the asbestos brake pad have been done since the 70s at least.

Heat sink? Okay, fine, I suppose it could meet that definition. I wouldn't call it that. Heat sink is such a stupid name, kind of like benzene instead of cyclohexatriene, or pre-owned instead of used.

Holes in rotor faces are bad, m'kay?

I am not getting into the x drilled, vs. slotted, vs. standard break discusion but i heard a good way to upgrade your brake size was to use the standard system off of a MAXIMA. I saw it on
se-r.net in one of the articles from a mag. It is supposed to bolt right on..

Nice guys all this time I was under the impression that a brake upgrade would be power slot X-drilled rotors and some nice pads...but now I know that is not the case what do I do now?? I like GOOD brakes...so what is the next option??

This is what i know, if you want to stop in shorter distances look into wider tires first I am of the opinion that tires are what help a lot. Also for us the brake upgrade on a street only car is purely cosmetic, just upgrade pads and SS brake lines and you can be done.

also the maxima is only a rear upgrade and you will be so rear biased that you will have to go with the fastbrake upgrade and a master cylinder upgrade to make it work

O

Originally posted by OnyxEros
also the maxima is only a rear upgrade and you will be so rear biased that you will have to go with the fastbrake upgrade and a master cylinder upgrade to make it work
O

Mostly true IMHO. I have found no need to upgrade the MC with my Fastbrake 2-piece 11 inch HD and 11 inch rear maxima brakes. I don't even have the rear stainless lines on there yet and the pedal feel is very good and the balance is excellent. This is on a 98 SE

Yeah you guys are right, Brembro Discs are crap... Dont know why they cross drill them anyway... They havent been making brakes long enough to know what they are doing...


Anyway so why are our radiators not a solid hunk of aluminum? Why is it designed the way it is?

So then what would you suggest as a brake upgrade for my 200sx w/ "stock brakes?" Is the NX2000 brake upgrade just a bolt on, or is it rather complicated? Also, are you really telling me all these "BIG BRAKE" kits are false advertising and only enhance asthetics? Thanks guys.

Ju§tin

Do pads, Axxis for example, and good ss lines. It should be okay. Rear pads are not necessary either. This will stop you real fast several times in a row.

Next, the NX brake upgrade can be done w/o getting too crazy. This will not stop you significantly faster, but will keep you from fading longer. Again only fronts are necessary.

Other than that it gets expensive.