Hey, whats up?

I just purchased a 93 nx2000, and was wondering what turbo setup to go with. I have heard good things about f-max and also about the jim wolf kit. I dont plan on making strictly a drg car, but want a good amount of power. Mainly for road racing. How much boost can a internally stock sr20de handle with proper management?


Thanks
:D

20psi, 22psi with racing fuel get a gti-r manifold a gti-r t-28 turbo and put it on your block do sum searching for the parts and for about 3000$ you can make very good power

Originally posted by insane imports
Hey, whats up?

I just purchased a 93 nx2000, and was wondering what turbo setup to go with. I have heard good things about f-max and also about the jim wolf kit. I dont plan on making strictly a drg car, but want a good amount of power. Mainly for road racing. How much boost can a internally stock sr20de handle with proper management?


Thanks
:D

I talked to JWT about there kit for track driving and they didn't recommend it. For a track car you will need fmic, nice radiator and low boost. I would consider a T28 or maybe the t3/t4e with the ballbearing center section. You need to build something that last NOT that is maximum power. The de can handle short burst of 350+hp but not sustained for long periods of time like roadracing requires. I would consider a DET with a upgraded turbo.

So wouldnt a det, plus a t28, maybe a modified one like the Disco Potato, along with a nice FMIC, a radiator, and an oil cooler work well? Nothing huge powerwise... just cams, pulleys a nice 2.5 inch exhaust. maybe about 230-250whp

Just to be crystal-clear, the D/P does not have a "modified" T28, it's just not for sale yet. ;) Anyway, a setup as you described, even with a GTi-R T28, can make 280-ish very reliably...well, the exhaust may choke a little. With a 3", I'm sure that 280 would be an easy target as long as your fuel system and MAF sensor could flow it. You'd need a bigger fuel pump, an AFPR (JWT 4-bar ECU program for the 370s), and a bored (53.5-54mm) or upgraded MAF sensor. 250 would be quite easy, and super-reliable.

Originally posted by CowboyDren
Just to be crystal-clear, the D/P does not have a "modified" T28, it's just not for sale yet. ;) Anyway, a setup as you described, even with a GTi-R T28, can make 280-ish very reliably...well, the exhaust may choke a little. With a 3", I'm sure that 280 would be an easy target as long as your fuel system and MAF sensor could flow it. You'd need a bigger fuel pump, an AFPR (JWT 4-bar ECU program for the 370s), and a bored (53.5-54mm) or upgraded MAF sensor. 250 would be quite easy, and super-reliable.

Well I thought it was a varation of the T28... it says its a Garrett GT28... A T28/T3 or something...


Anyway, I have a 255LPH fuel pump already installed. Why cant I use the 3 bar program with larger injectors, say 440cc, not much more than the 370cc. Also would a SR20DET maf (non- gtir) work or do I need to go big like a 300ZX, Q45, Cobra maf? Who bores maf? Self done? If so what would you use? Dremel down the sides?

Like I said, I dont plan on making huge hp, with 300 being the absolute maximum and thats pushing it... more like 250-260 where i want to be...

Also I chose the 2.5 inch exhaust to limit power because i heard it helps spool up faster than a 3 inch exhaust...

It is a T28; T28 is a family, D/P uses a specific model of that family that is not yet in production. It will be an off-the-shelf part, though; it's not like it's a custom part.

You can use larger injectors, but the odds are good that you'll have to get a new fuel rail and possibly pigtails for the ECU wiring harness to go with them. 370s at 4b actually outflow 444s at 3b. If the 370 cc/m injectors from a TTZ fit, the next most economical option is to get MSD 50 lb/hr units and a JWT or FTF fuel rail. It's a matter of budget, the way I see it, but I'm me and you're you. ;) Charlie seems to think that 370s won't live as long at 4b, but I'm not sure if I subscribe to his school or not. I am all but 100% certain that the 444s that GTi-R engines use only work with 'R fuel rails on 'R intake manifolds, if that's what you were thinking.

The stock Bluebird SR20DET MAF sensor is no larger than a US-spec SR20DE MAF sensor, so that's not a great swap idea. To bore a stock MAF sensor, all you have to do is remove the guts, take it to a machine shop, and reassemble it after they mill or lathe the center larger. IIRC, 53.5mm is the target you want to aim for, and will support nearly 300 WHP if you need it. You're also supposed to have JWT compensate for a bored MAF sensor in their programming, but I'm not convinced that this is 100% necessary, either. If you're using a black box, the playing field is level. Other acceptable options do include an 'R sensor, a Cobra sensor, or a TTZ sensor, all of which are available at any number of price points, and all definitely need to be accounted for by JWT or black box tuning.

I've never heard of a smaller exhaust pipe helping a turbo in any way whatsoever. Smaller IC pipes do help spool up, but your statement smells fishy. Not starting an argument, just wanting to make sure we all have our facts straight before laying any money down.

About the exhaust... someone had a 2.5 inch exhaust and said he noticed faster spoolup time and better midrange... with a 3 in he noticed better top end... i'll have to find the post where i got it from...

I threw that up to see if anyone else agreed becuase it was the first time I heard that.

As for the injectors I dont really have a budget, just dont know what to use... One guy says 370cc 4bar, one says 370cc 3 bar, and they all are reliable sources.

50lb injectors are approx. 525 cc... i think thats a bit much based on charlie2020's post for injectors:

"259cc/min = 197.3hp @ 100%DC or 167.7hp @ 85%DC
370cc/min = 281.9hp @ 100%DC or 239.3hp @ 85%DC
444cc/min = 337.6hp @ 100%DC or 286.9hp @ 85%DC
525cc/min = 400 hp @ 100%DC or 340hp @ 85%DC "


I think I'd be better off with 38lb(399cc) for MSD or 440cc(42lb) from RC Engineering... with that I'll be good for 260-290 hp at 85%DC or less