This is the New Project:

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The good:
- NO RUST!
- Tein SS Coilovers
- Wilwood BABK with a spare set of rotors and calipers
- Body is a 7-8 out of 10 (the best shape car i have ever purchased)
- Rays rims
-Cusco strut tower bar

The Bad:
- interior is a 4/10 maybe 5 after i clean it.
- transmission is cracked at the lowest point where the gearbox meets the bell housing. someone tried to repair it with JB Weld. it leaks. over the course of a week of driving from Anaheim to Edmonton, i believe most of the trans fluid is gone
- passenger side steering rack boot is ripped
-power antenna was ripped off
- engine mounts are shot
- exhaust is loud

first up was the airbag problem, the airbag light kept flashing so i whipped out the FSM. if you have an airbag light, and you press the door sensor 5 times within 7 seconds of turning the key to the on position, it puts the airbag module into diagnostic mode. once in diagnostic mode, the airbag light flashes a certain pattern. in my case 3 seconds on 2 seconds off which means there was a problem once, and now its all good. so i turned the ignition off then on again and no more light.

the next problem was all the other electronics that didn't work, the power locks, the interior lights, the rear window defrost, door chime, radio constant 12V, keyless entry and the power antenna. once again, the FSM saved me. after a few hours of checking stuff, this is what i found;

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http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v645/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1214961_9634.jpg

all that stuff didnt work because it wasnt getting power. it wasnt getting power *** the fuse was blown in the main fuse box under the dash. the fuse for all that stuff is simply labelled interior lamp. so i replaced that fuse and it blew right away. it blew right away because of the circuit board pictured above. that circuit board is the smart entrance control unit.

on that board is a blue smartie looking thing. it basically protects the important components from any power surges. The car had a faulty voltage regulator so from what i gather, that little blue smartie committed suicide to save the rest of the board.

I cut the blue thing off, put a next fuse, and all the stuff worked!! well... almost all of it anyway. the keyless entry still doesnt work. the radio didnt work, and the antenna is still ripped off the car.

I bought another varistor and soldered it on to replace the old one.

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2110/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1248191_4723.jpg

this is the plastic box that the smart entrance control unit circuit board is contained in.

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2110/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1248193_5126.jpg

started putting it all back together

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I decided i wanted clear fender markers so i picked up these amber LED markers at pirncess auto, they're $3 a piece.

http://photos-d.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-snc1/v2110/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1264003_2053.jpg

they are about the same size and shape as the originals, and surprisingly are a direct replacement for the side markers off the dually fenders on my 95 F-350

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http://photos-e.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-snc1/v2110/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1263876_3072.jpg

they're a bit taller then the stock markers, but i dont think it will be much of a problem.

http://photos-d.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-snc1/v2110/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1263875_2760.jpg

to get the amber cover off the base, i poured a small amount of water inside the light and then put them in the microwave. it worked great on the first one, i was able to pry the cover off no problem. i got lazy on the second one and decided to put it in the microwave with the rubber seal still on.

http://photos-a.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-snc1/v2110/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1263872_1802.jpg

anyway...:rolleyes: after some trimming and soldering i glued the LED marker onto the original base with super glue, then duct taped it while it dries.

here's the finished product

http://photos-f.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-snc1/v2110/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1274741_3842.jpg

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it sticks out kind of far, i may change to something else in the future, im not sure.

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2110/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1277514_5345.jpg

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after i fixed the smart entrance control unit, i was getting power to the radio again. unfortunatly this uncovered another problem. even though i had power, there was no music.

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2110/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1301520_6705.jpg

after extensive testing, i discovered that the trunk mounted factory stock bose amplifier was faulty.

considering im using an aftermarket head unit anyway, i decided not to replace the amp and that i would bypass it instead.


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i started by cutting the connector off the board.

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then i bridged the inputs straight into the outputs. since the aftermarket head unit has a built in amplifier, i dont need the stock one to power the speakers.

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2110/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1301526_8832.jpg

this is the connector back in place in the trunk. this way, whenever i do decide to go with an aftermarket amplifier, it will make the install very clean, with no modification whatsoever to the factory wiring. and if i ever want to go back to stock, all i have to do is buy another bose amp and hook it up.

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2110/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1301527_9175.jpg

and finally, the head unit.

very nice man. Good looking P11

installed the E-01 yesterday in preperation for the boost.

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wired the power into the stereo harness so that i wouldnt have to ruin the factory wiring.

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i had it all hooked up and then it wouldnt turn on... wtf? after some testing, i found the screen wasnt getting power. really nothing was getting power except the boost selenoid. the previous owner had the screen hardwired with its own 12V source, bypassing the module, so i figured i would bypass the module by running that small wire on the circuit boardover to the trace that leads to the display's power supply.

I turned the ignition on and everything worked! awesome!

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2086/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1310835_1259.jpg

then I turned the ignition off... there was a small fire inside the E-01 module, not cool.

in the pic above you can see burn marks on the left side, next the connector that is second from the top, a transistor burned up. really not cool...

anyone selling an E-01 module without the screen and the rest? doubt it...

where did you learn all your wiring skills? Thats the one thing I am afraid of with cars, wiring + me = fail.
nice car.

where did you learn all your wiring skills? Thats the one thing I am afraid of with cars, wiring + me = fail.
nice car.

all you need is the right equpment, a soldering gun, some other stuff and some patience. to diagnose problems takes hours sometimes, i just use a FSM: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

awesome, i think im going to take some enrichment classes here at OSU Just so i can become more proficient. All i need is time now :(

Holy slow.. Where's the updates? :P


Hey Ter, do you still have those 11:1 pistons?

Holy slow.. Where's the updates? :P


Hey Ter, do you still have those 11:1 pistons?

hey pete, i still have them, and they're lat top 10:1, i was eeping them for a "special" project down the road when i get rich.

why you interested?

It's a toss up, either for a mild FWD build for a Sentra, or I might toss them in the 240 and just throw boost at them. Stock CR is 9.5:1 anyway... I couldn't remember if yours were 10:1 or 11:1... Hit me on MSN and lemme know what you'd part with them for.

Congrats on turning that car around dude!

Good luck with the car, Just an FYI not all P11's came with orange. You should be able to locate OEM clear ones that will fit perfect as they are made for your car.

thanks guys

http://photos-b.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-snc1/v2428/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1424625_2454101.jpg

Did the rear brakes yesterday so i could pass the provincial inspection. just some cheap $20 pads. I'll pick up something better in the summer.

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Replaced these clear signal lights....

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...with these OEM amber ones.

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also picked up a beige set of the same anchored floor mats. they match pretty good.

very nice man. Good to see you fixing all the little things that most people would not bother with. Good job and keep the updates coming.

http://photos-f.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-snc1/v2664/150/89/506867691/n506867691_1433741_6626244.jpg

Before sand blasting (left), After sand blasting (right)

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a little paint. the one on the right came out kind of ugly. I'll give the set on the car the same treatment after i swap them for these.

http://photos-h.ll.facebook.com/hphotos-ll-snc1/hs035.snc1/2664_55445177691_506867691_1433743_8287412_n.jpg

gave the rotors a light dusting too so they dont look like crap.

car just passed provincial inspection today... now the real work begins.... :)

where did you pick up those sexy brakes from? fastbrakes?

lol, i picked them up from the trunk when i bought the car, they're a spare set of calipers and rotors that came with it. the identical set is installed right now.

god damn, what a deal..thats like an instant $600+ rebate.

I took the wheels off today, they are going to have the tires dismounted for refinishing, so i thought i would take advantage of the car being up on stands for the next little while.

http://photos-h.ll.facebook.com/hphotos-ll-snc1/hs037.snc1/2604_56087102691_506867691_1444383_871182_n.jpg

Removed the rear brakes to be sandblasted and painted.

http://photos-a.ll.facebook.com/hphotos-ll-snc1/hs037.snc1/2604_56087107691_506867691_1444384_2284430_n.jpg

Removed the front brakes for the same reason. this time i removed some of the bleeding nipples and plugged all the holes with set screws.

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when i had everything off the back, i spun the hubs. On the right side it span freely, and made bad noises, on the left side it was stiffer and made bad noises so i removed both and decided to do rear wheel bearings.

http://photos-e.ll.facebook.com/hphotos-ll-snc1/hs037.snc1/2604_56087552691_506867691_1444388_3566808_n.jpg


there were no caps on the hubs, so the grease was dirty and dried out, what there was left of it anyway. everything got dunked in the varsol bucket and cleaned by hand. nothing was in bad shape, so i wont be needing new bearings. the hubs will be sand blasted and painted, then reassembled and the bearings packed with new grease.

http://photos-d.ll.facebook.com/hphotos-ll-snc1/hs037.snc1/2604_56087547691_506867691_1444387_1213185_n.jpg

also removed the strut tower bar, blue is nice but it doesnt match my black and grey (OEM) colour scheme. so... you guessed it, sandblasted and painted.

Damn the body work was impressive enough and now electrical stuff, damn u got some mad talents.