hay guys, i have just got some es motormount inserts for my nx, and i need some advice on how to raise up my motor with out a cherry picker. one of my friends told me to put a 2x4 on my oil pan and jack it by that. that didn't sound to right, and the instructions that came with the inserts said not to do that. and can someone tell me where the other 2 inserts go, i mean the round one and the one that has the octagon shape. any advice would have thanks.

Your friend is right. Get a 2x4, or something beefier (you don't want it bending), that's at least a few inches longer than the oil pan, so it hangs over the edges by a few inches. You just want to jack it up a bit, so the weight is off of the mounts.

I assume you bought the firewall and dogbone mounts. The small round and octagonal ones go in the dogbone, which is in the front of the engine bay, by the radiator.

Be prepared for a fight on that firewall mount! There's a couple of detailed writeups here on just how to do the install. I know I did one a while back, try searching on "mount installation" and my username. You should be able to find it.

Chris

I used a jack right under the tranny. Take off the crossmember, the front mount isnt too hard. Just take the old inserts out of the mount, and squeeze the new ones in. The back mount should be easy IF its not bent. Mine was in the shape of an oval, and the inserts wouldnt fit in there if my life depended on it. So if the mount is not a circle, you will have some problems.

Here's my trick for the firewall mount, if you have trouble. Get a piece of thin sheet metal at home depot, and cut out two pieces that are bigger then the size of the inserts (so that there's an area to grab onto when you hold it against the insert). after you've dropped the crossmember, slide the inserts into the recesses of the stock mount. Coat the back of the inserts, the sheet metal, and the bracket with silicone spray (can't use too much). Sandwich the mount between the sheetmetal pieces, and slide it all into the bracket using the sheetmetal as shims. Then put the two bolts back in at the back of the crossmember, finger tight. Now you can pull out the sheetmetal with some pliers, and work on lining up the bolt hole in the mount.

Hope that helps

Josh

correct me if i'm right on this guys about the motormount insert kit. so the small round and octagon insert go in the front of the dog bone and the 2 similar larger inserts go in the rear motor mount. thanks for the advice, i will probably be replacing them this weekend.

I just discovered yesterday during an oil change that my front motor mount (dogbone) is torn all to hell. It's literally shredded. I have ES inserts, but they are not installed. Do you HAVE to remove the crossmember to install the front mm inserts? And will this necessitate an alignment if you remove the crossmember? I just paid $50 for an alignment!!



nxgoody, yes, you are right about where those 2 peices go.

You can easily change the dogbone mount without removing the crossmember - unbolt the dogbone and it will come right out, press in the ES stuff, and it will go back in just as easily. And the crossmember also should not affect alignment, it'e not a part of the suspension, its only purpose is to support the engine. When you do pull the crossmember, I also highly suggest the ES shifter bushing - it's cheap, very easy to install with the crossmember out, and noticeably improves shift feel.

Josh

if you have a vice its very easy, just line it up... and slowly squeeze it in (the front mount)... and the back mount just push in by hand, and ur done!

I just finished the ES motor mounts on a 95 200SX SER. Dogbone front was easy. That did not require dropping the crossmember. The rear ( tranny drivers side ) also was easy. Took the pressure off the mount by very lightly jacking up the tranny where it bolts to the engine ( flange only ). You don't want to be jacking up the engine by the oil pan. If you dent it you could easily block off the oil pickup ( see other posts on this ).

The rear firewall side was a pain in the butt. Our 95 had crushed the mount enough so that it was difficult to get the tabs into the slots. Then it was very difficult to get the sorry thing back into place. Finally got it by completely removing the crossmember and installing it at the back ( under the firewall ) first getting the through bolt in, then prying the cross member forward slightly to align the front bolts.

I see someone posted a sheet metal trick to help. Might work but i don't plan on doing any more till these wear out or the clutch breaks which ever come first :D

another trick for the front/dogbone mount. this sounds bizarre, but my buddy, ltrain, used this method and has posted his procedure. basically, wall you need to do is drop the dogbone mount into some boiling water. it softens up the mount so that it can be easily pressed (by foot even) into the mount. might help if you applied some grease.

I found a good method for doing the dogbone mounts without having to boil them. Just grease the inserts up real good. Align them so they exactly over the mount holes, then carefully put a board or something flat and hard right on top of the insert (balance it on top). Figure out exactly where the mount is underneath and make a mark on the top of the board there. Then, take a small sledge hammer and hit that thing as hard as you can in exactly that spot! It will pop right in, and it will only take you about 2 minutes to do both inserts, if you have good aim;)

For the rear, I'm using some pour in urethane and will just pour it directly into the existing mount. A bucket of the stuff cots $25 and you can do about 5 or 6 mounts with it.

yeah the sheet metal trick is great. Thanks MEclassic, Josh for helping me with mine..

also put front (dogbone) end of the crossmember on first and then do the back with the sheet metal trick..

that way you don't have to hold the front of crossmember up and you know the back bolt holes will line up..

once you get them in and drive around, get ready for the side mounts to go bad too if they're still stock.. might as well buy them all from suspension.com.