Hi Guys,

What brake pads do you use on the rear brakes of your race car?

I use Axxis Ultimates, but I cannot find them anymore :(

Stock. The only problem I've had is that they wear rather quickly compared to the ultimates.

i like Hawk HP+ in the rear of my race Probe.... makes for just the right balance, front to rear.... they go about 2 yrs before i need to change them!

I remember working with Rosen's red/white B13 with Altima Rear brakes I think....
He was going into turn one at VIR and round and round he went. We put s#$t pads on the rear and all was well.

We have been running stock rear pads to my knowledge since.

Regular Autohut semi-metallics. Last a couple years.

Napa gold 20 bucks a set cheapest thing on the race car. :)

Has anyone found a HAWK pad that will fit in the rear?

We've just been rocking stock pads for the rear. Anything more and we'll probably be looping everywhere, as we've got the bias set to almost 100% front and it still locks the rears when trailbraking.

ebc pads any 1 of there sets work great and if you got some money buy there cross drilled rotors an you'll stop on a dime

ebc pads any 1 of there sets work great and if you got some money buy there cross drilled rotors an you'll stop on a dime


:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
I seriously hope you are joking.

Scott do you think you need more rear bias?

ebc pads any 1 of there sets work great and if you got some money buy there cross drilled rotors an you'll stop on a dime

:facepalm:

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
I seriously hope you are joking.

Scott do you think you need more rear bias?

Hi, Joe. I have my bias just like I like it. I'm now using the Wilwood Polymatrix B in the front and a Carbotech Bobcats in the rear. I drilled out the stock proportioning devices in the master cylinder and installed a Wilwood 6 position proportioning valve instead. Everything works great. I'm sending almost full pressure to the rears and it's really helping. I disagree with those that say the rears don't do much.

My "problem" is that I'm starting to accumulate lots of Hawk contingency stuff and I'd like to move to Hawk pads. With the contingency certificate I can get Hawk pads for about $15 ($65-$50) per set where the Wilwood fronts are $80/set and the Carbotech rears are $140. I like $15 better.

I'm with Scott on this one, I have the 11" Fastbrakes front kit with original master cylinder and proportioning valves. Last year I switched from stock replacement pads in the rear to axxis ultimates and didn't have any problems with lock up as I thought I might after reading on here. I think to get the most out of the car, the rear brakes should be utilized up until just before the point where they lock. But if you get too close to that line and lock up once causing a flat spot, I can see why people don't mess around with rear brakes much.

Hi, Joe. I have my bias just like I like it. I'm now using the Wilwood Polymatrix B in the front and a Carbotech Bobcats in the rear. I drilled out the stock proportioning devices in the master cylinder and installed a Wilwood 6 position proportioning valve instead. Everything works great. I'm sending almost full pressure to the rears and it's really helping. I disagree with those that say the rears don't do much.

My "problem" is that I'm starting to accumulate lots of Hawk contingency stuff and I'd like to move to Hawk pads. With the contingency certificate I can get Hawk pads for about $15 ($65-$50) per set where the Wilwood fronts are $80/set and the Carbotech rears are $140. I like $15 better.

Cool man, glad to hear your experimenting and not going with the flow.

+ side, that how you get ahead and you guys are certainly rising the bar/lowering lap times from when I raced the run what you brung days of NASA.
- side, You guys are spending some $$$!!!!!

Rosens old car had altima rear calipers I believe, and when we put on a set of race pads back there it sent him as Rockwood stated, looping. I no longer drive one of these cars so I am out of the loop, however, I do feel an aggressive Hawk pad on the rear would make it difficult to do anything but 100% straight line braking without the possibility of lockup. Only you would know the factual answer to this after experimenting.

I disagree, Joe. I think that PTE is still a "run what you brung" class. i don't consider a brake proportioning valve a high dollar modification. I still have a junkyard motor with NO work into it other than a stock valve job and the typical bolt-on mods. The only PTE competitors with full rebuilds are Darrin and Eric. Eric's car is faster on the dyno than the track while Darrin's car is faster on the track than on the dyno :-).

The most expensive item on my car is the cage/seat mount combo that cost a factor of 10 more than the next expensive single item. I have no mod plans. I'm only spending money on axles, tires, and other consumables.

I disagree, Joe. I think that PTE is still a "run what you brung" class. i don't consider a brake proportioning valve a high dollar modification. I still have a junkyard motor with NO work into it other than a stock valve job and the typical bolt-on mods. The only PTE competitors with full rebuilds are Darrin and Eric. Eric's car is faster on the dyno than the track while Darrin's car is faster on the track than on the dyno :-).

The most expensive item on my car is the cage/seat mount combo that cost a factor of 10 more than the next expensive single item. I have no mod plans. I'm only spending money on axles, tires, and other consumables.

Ok, Brake proportioning valve, I agree, not a high dollar item, hell I have one on my death racer,
but... you have to admit that these cars are a far cry from an autopower bolt in rollcage, AGX/GC combo, NX F brakes and a pace setter header like we ran in the old days.

You're probably right. The good news is that it's going to be hard to get into too much of an arms race with the PT formula in effect. The HP/weight thing is going to be interesting.

Hi, Joe. I have my bias just like I like it. I'm now using the Wilwood Polymatrix B in the front and a Carbotech Bobcats in the rear. I drilled out the stock proportioning devices in the master cylinder and installed a Wilwood 6 position proportioning valve instead. Everything works great. I'm sending almost full pressure to the rears and it's really helping. I disagree with those that say the rears don't do much.

I guess my case would be different, since the P10 has a little bit smaller than AD22 brakes up front, but Maxima-sized rotors in the rear. Either way, we've got ours turned almost all the way down, and it'll still flat spot the bajeezus out of a rear tire if you're not careful on corner entry... :D

Rock, you can tune that with pads as well. I think the reason that I have to dial so much pressure to the rear is that I am using the "B" compound in the front. That is the most "god-awful, high torque, snatch the wheels out from under you" compound that I have ever used. I love it. I think I could balance things out more if I had a little grippier compound in the back.... which is what I'm trying to accomplish with a Hawk compound.

I talked to Monty at Livermore Performance and they said they could get the Porterfield R4 compound in the rear and they said that they could custom make a Hawk Black compound for the rear from a slightly larger pad. BUT they don't know anything about the NASA contingency. Can ANY vendor accept the hawk contingency??

Word. We do, however, have pretty good brakes. I was able to outbrake the Mazdaspeed RX-8s we have here despite them having ABS, and we've never had problems fading (helps if you don't use them... :D). For now, we've got bigger fish to fry in repairing the t-bone damage to the car. Luckily, the SE-R Cup cage preserved the vehicle's structure. Can't say the same for the poor 944 that hit us...

Either way, it's been working for us, so we'll likely leave it as it is. I think if we run more aggressive pads all around, it'll be too easy to lock them up anyway.