Well I just got back from dynoing my VE and on the 2nd run I dyno'd at 207.9 whp and 167.3 tq. Pretty impressive numbers huh. I even have a dyno sheet to prove it. Now for the explanation. The dyno temp gauge on that run went a little bezerk and as a result the SAE correction factor went thru the roof. The run before that was 171 and the run after that was also 171whp. I did fiddle with a couple things and my final number went to 179.5 and 140.6 tq and I backed it up with a 178.6 and a 142.0. My power peak was at 7200 rpm and I made 171 whp at 7600rpm. The powerband was nice and smooth. This is with my sr20ve, stock cams, Fujitsuba header, 2.5-inch exhaust, home made C.A.I., MSD ignition and a Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator. It was at the end of the dyno session and my engine was definitely warm. I going to claim 180whp, what do you think? I will be swapping in the sr16 cams in a couple weeks or so.

BTW my friends M3 with a couple mods did 207whp and another classic did 138whp with a JDM 10:1, CAI, exhaust, headers.

so is it 207 whp or 180 whp? Either way it's totally impressive. Anyone got one of the 207 bhp VEs yet (mated to a 6 speed tranny)?

Have you taken it to the track yet?

Originally posted by 98sr20ve
The dyno temp gauge on that run went a little bezerk and as a result the SAE correction factor went thru the roof.

It was a faulty dyno number becuase the correction factor was waaaayyyyyy off. It's 180 I was having fun with the post.

So you see, I was right about the regulator and the adjustment of the timing. I can also tell you what to do to get 185 WHP but I am saving some of the tricks for me. I hope you feel better now, I knew ones you got the regulator your HP would go up to match up with Shoe59s HP figures. Now lets get that bitch past 190 WHP.

those numbers do sound impressive cept one thing.

you had to scream the engine to get it. what about the low end of the rpms? the low tourqe compared to hp makes me wonder how snappy it is off the line. i know i would probably hardly ever scream my engine like that, it would sound too scary, i'd be afraid to brake something, even if there is a guarentee nothing would happen.

I like a car with the low to middle grade haul ass! (grade = rpm)

Originally posted by ScarCrow28
those numbers do sound impressive cept one thing.

you had to scream the engine to get it. what about the low end of the rpms? the low tourqe compared to hp makes me wonder how snappy it is off the line. i know i would probably hardly ever scream my engine like that, it would sound too scary, i'd be afraid to brake something, even if there is a guarentee nothing would happen.

I like a car with the low to middle grade haul ass! (grade = rpm)


Then get a muscle car

Originally posted by ScarCrow28
the low tourqe compared to hp makes me wonder how snappy it is off the line.

From comparing dyno graphs of a bolt on SR20DE versus an SR20VE (Shaggy's GF) it looks as though you're gaining about 10-15 ft-lbs of torque in the 2k-3k rpm range.

Compared to a DE the VE has better low end torque, similar mid range, and just screams above 5k rpm.

Steve

Originally posted by autoxer7


Compared to a DE the VE has better low end torque, similar mid range, and just screams above 5k rpm.

Steve

Like he said. I ran my car with the cams not working for several days and it was a lot stronger then my de that i took out. The only difference was the header and the CAI. Made about 140whp like that and good low in torque. It does feel like it has less torque with the cams hooked up but that is only because it gains another 40whp up top.

ok, so using a VE with stock SR20 exhaust your talking about?
that sounds like it may satisify what i want. i may opt for a 16VE with stock SR20 exhaust.

"get a muscle car" i had a feeling someone was gonna say this

i should say that i basicly want about a 6 second 0-60 car, top end doesn't worry me that much because i'm not draggin. at least i wouldn't be more then onece a year.

Originally posted by ScarCrow28
ok, so using a VE with stock SR20 exhaust your talking about?
that sounds like it may satisify what i want. i may opt for a 16VE with stock SR20 exhaust.


I don't know what you mean about the stock exhaust. I have a Fujitsubu header. I made 158whp with that and my stock exhaust. I put the 2.5 inch cat back and made 171. Did fixed some things and did some dyno tuning and made basically 180whp. This is with a sr20ve. I have no idea about the sr16ve. If you want torque why would you get the sr16ve, that is basically a step in the wrong direction. It would have way less bottom pull then the sr20de.

Even though the SR20VE doesnt have such a high rev factor as the SR16VE, it still loves high rpms. Most 4 cylinders make there power at higher rpms as opposed to a V6/8. If you only want middle grunt, then you really are better off with a V6/8 because they are designed that way. Now if you love to hear your engine roar as the rpm's get higher the VE's are the way to go.

Originally posted by Andreas Miko
So you see, I was right about the regulator and the adjustment of the timing. I can also tell you what to do to get 185 WHP but I am saving some of the tricks for me. I hope you feel better now, I knew ones you got the regulator your HP would go up to match up with Shoe59s HP figures. Now lets get that bitch past 190 WHP.
Great numbers Steve. I was at the Glen for the last 2 days and ran with several E30 M3's. No problem keeping pace with them. Then I dialed back my fuel pressure to about 37 psi (I was running it at 42 psi just to play it safe while I was experiencing teething problems with the ECU) and I pulled on all the E30's with ease. It felt MUCH stronger. I can't wait till you install the cams and hear your impressions. You'll be the test bed and I'll follow suit this winter if all goes well.

BTW, I took a ride in a Ferarri Challenge car today. Unfuckingbelieveable grip and braking. Awsome cars.

Originally posted by Shoes59
I was at the Glen for the last 2 days and ran with several E30 M3's. No problem keeping pace with them. Then I dialed back my fuel pressure to about 37 psi (I was running it at 42 psi just to play it safe while I was experiencing teething problems with the ECU) and I pulled on all the E30's with ease. It felt MUCH stronger.

Yeah, those E30 M3's can be fast. We have a Eurospec (2.5 or 2.7 liter) E30 out this way that can pull me quite easily down the front straight at Portland International.... provided his clutch isn't slipping. ;) My 150hp B13 can actually hang with a stock E36 M3 down the same front straight.

Anyhow, I'm curious if you played with your fuel pressure when you dyno'd the car and that is how you knew to set it to 37psi? Also, are you running the B13 Greddy exhaust? As I understand it the B13 Greddy only uses a 50mm diameter pipe; not 60mm like the Greddy for the B14.

Steve

Originally posted by Shoes59

Then I dialed back my fuel pressure to about 37 psi (I was running it at 42 psi just to play it safe while I was experiencing teething problems with the ECU) and I pulled on all the E30's with ease. It felt MUCH stronger.

I started at 37psi with the vac hose conected and dialed it back even more on the dyno. I assume your 42 was with it disconnected because that is what it says for my car with it disconnected. I don't know what it is at now. All I know is I was rich at the dyno and now I am perfect across the board with no pinging. If you made 181 with a rich engine then I am going to be so jelous with it dynoed right. Jim, I don't know if the ecu has any more power in it for my car. I upped the timing to 17 and it lost power, The FPR lets you dial in the mixture. Seems that would be it (other then the stumbling that you get). I am sure mine would have been a little higher with a non-heatsoaked engine also.

great numbers 98sr20ve i envy you ve guys :mad:

keep up the good work and keep us updated

Originally posted by 98sr20ve
I assume your 42 was with it disconnected because that is what it says for my car with it disconnected.
No. I was running it at 42 psi with the vacuum hose connected. I knew it was running rich but wanted to play it safe till I had all the ECU issues sorted. It's dialed back to 37 or 38 psi with the vacuum hose connected (the FSM calls for approx 36 psi at idle). I want to keep it a bit on the rich side till I get it on the dyno again.

Car runs great at high RPM's but this winter I plan on installing an oil cooler to keep the temps in check. I was tagging the 260 degree mark and I'm just not comfortable running it that hot for very long. I find myself short shifting to keep the temps down and my lap times tend to suffer.

Aside from the high oil temps the car ran perfect and handled awesome. Balance was perfect after dialing out some oversteer by lowering the rear tire pressures just one pound.

Originally posted by Shoes59

No. I was running it at 42 psi with the vacuum hose connected. I knew it was running rich but wanted to play it safe till I had all the ECU issues sorted. It's dialed back to 37 or 38 psi with the vacuum hose connected (the FSM calls for approx 36 psi at idle). I want to keep it a bit on the rich side till I get it on the dyno again.


I went and checked my notes from the FPR install. THe stock VE FPR was set at 38psi with the hose attached and 46 with the hose not attached. I set mine at 37 for my first dyno pull becuase I thought it felt rich. I was right and it was still rich even at 37psi. I lowered it about 1/3 of a turn but I don't know what that is at right now. I will check it and let you know. My FSM calls for 34psi and anywhere from 32-38psi in my Haynes manuel (hose conected). I find this all very interesting. Jim why don't you take your car to the dyno again and tune the FPR and the ignition timing on the Dyno. You may save yourself a trip to Canada again. My dyno tuning cost $50 with me sharing with another friend. It would have been $100 all on my own. Very worth it.

I couldn't resist checking mine. It is at 30psi connected and 40psi disconnected hose. Also, my friends M3 was a E36 not a E30 if that is what got the BMW talk going.

Originally posted by 98sr20ve
my friends M3 was a E36 not a E30 if that is what got the BMW talk going.

I saw the 207 hp number and figured it was an E36. However, I thought that modded M3's made a bit more power than that. Does your friend have a '95 (OBDI and mod friendly) or a '96+ (OBDII and NOT mod friendly)? I believe to make any power with mods on a '96+ M3 you need to get the right chip (Dinan or Conforti).

Steve

Originally posted by autoxer7


I saw the 207 hp number and figured it was an E36. However, I thought that modded M3's made a bit more power than that. Does your friend have a '95 (OBDI and mod friendly) or a '96+ (OBDII and NOT mod friendly)? I believe to make any power with mods on a '96+ M3 you need to get the right chip (Dinan or Conforti).

Steve

OBD1 and mod friendly. He has a Intake, Flywheel, Dinan Chip. I think that is it. It is a nice car.