so i see there is a dyno this weekend, how about the PTE regulars kills some time on sunday since we have 4 hours between sessions and do some dynoe runs to compare #s?

I'll always go for dyno/weighing and modification sheet inspection. I just have to squeeze it in. I'm in PTE and TTE this weekend. I also updated my points for 2009....

http://www.sr20forum.com/road-racing/226225-post-your-performance-touring-points.html

i'm in for a dyno test! i'm very curious to see how the probenstien dynos out, and what its power/weight number is!!!

todd

cool assuming wade is in, lets do it sunday when scott has time in his schedule

Will it be a Dynojet?

Sounds good to me! What's up the the crappy schedule? I thought one of the purposes for skipping practice on Sunday was to get an earlier race time. A 3:41 start time is pretty late when you have a five hour drive home!

yea, i don't get the schedule either

looks like scott's TT session ends areound 11:00 sunday, then hes not back on track till 2:30 or 3:00 so we should have time dynoe in betweenSounds good to me! What's up the the crappy schedule? I thought one of the purposes for skipping practice on Sunday was to get an earlier race time. A 3:41 start time is pretty late when you have a five hour drive home!

yes, it will be a dyno jet (and kevin i still need to swing by and give you some cash ;-)

yahoo! this sounds like it will be fun! i've just done up a fresh PTx sheet (i've got an extra copy printed and stapled up for you, harper -- remind me to hand it to you on sat morning!!!!). at 2660 lbs race weight, i can make up to 174 whp and still be safe for PTE.... (don't think i'll be anywhere near that number; i'd guess more in the 160ish range).

just curious -- what are the rest of you SE-R whp cutoff numbers?

oh, and i talked to darren this morning; engine is back together (mostly!) and is in the process of going into the car this afternoon; barring any unforseen problems, he should be there to do PTE battle tomorrow!!!!!!! :)


EDIT: PS -- this question is for joe -- i took out all 6 spark plugs to examine them yesterday (it's been about 10 weekends on them since i put them in). two looked 'normal; good; slightly rich'. four looked like they were wet; in reality, they were dry, and very shiny, all over the insulator and even the metal electrodes and threaded ring. they looked like they were covered in a very thin coating of light brown glass, almost like a beer bottle would be made of..... i called my guy who helps me tune the turbo honda, and asked him -- he told me they were 'glazed' from high temps in the combustion chamber, and to change them out, which i did (i replaced them with the same plug; NGK-R ZFR-6F11). i've never seen a plug look like this, and it concerned me (and my tuner friend, too). i have a stock ecu, so there is no tuning involved. the car has been running its usual cool, with no overheating. and as i said, two plugs looked fine, the other four were glazed over. timing is advanced by the disty, about 4 degrees past factory. gap is factory, at 0.044". btw, the gap on the used plugs was still within spec, and did not look worn at all. if not for the glazing, i'd have put them back in! what do you think, joe? you are def the local guru here, and i'd like your input!

at 2521 i can make up to 163 hp

on dyno it pulled 160 twice and 161 once, which means i am legal weighing 2487 or at my weight assuming 161 hp or I can make up to 163

what i really want to see is how we all compare on the same dyno

todd what width tires do you run?

here is the link to the calculator that does math for you

http://www.westcoasthc.com/ptpoints.xls

glad to hear darren will be there!

battle tomorrow!!!!!!! :)


EDIT: PS -- this question is for joe -- i took out all 6 spark plugs to examine them yesterday (it's been about 10 weekends on them since i put them in). two looked 'normal; good; slightly rich'. four looked like they were wet; in reality, they were dry, and very shiny, all over the insulator and even the metal electrodes and threaded ring. they looked like they were covered in a very thin coating of light brown glass, almost like a beer bottle would be made of..... i called my guy who helps me tune the turbo honda, and asked him -- he told me they were 'glazed' from high temps in the combustion chamber, and to change them out, which i did (i replaced them with the same plug; NGK-R ZFR-6F11). i've never seen a plug look like this, and it concerned me (and my tuner friend, too). i have a stock ecu, so there is no tuning involved. the car has been running its usual cool, with no overheating. and as i said, two plugs looked fine, the other four were glazed over. timing is advanced by the disty, about 4 degrees past factory. gap is factory, at 0.044". btw, the gap on the used plugs was still within spec, and did not look worn at all. if not for the glazing, i'd have put them back in! what do you think, joe? you are def the local guru here, and i'd like your input!

I don't know about guru, I have not had much sucess in those damn vg30's lately....

Your turbo guy told you the same thing I would have told you.
Sounds like glazing or a glazed plug.
High combustion temps don't always equal high operating temps. The engine can be running its usual cool but can have high combustion temps in a particular cylinder. The high combustion temps can be a result of a variety of things. Talk to someone with working knowledge of a 5 gas analyzer, I think I remember high NOx levels being associated with high combustion temps. The analyzer can help confirm your combustion temps.

I would recommend trying a colder plug as the plug could be to hot.
*** colder/hotter plugs do not equal short/long reach plug***
2 plugs can look identical and one can be a colder plug. Just stating this as I have heard people call a longer reach plug a hotter plug.
The colder the plug the lower temperature it operates, the downfall to this is that they will foul as they loose the cleaning benefit of a hotter plug. Too hot of a plug will become a source of heat and can start your burn to early.

so i see there is a dyno this weekend, how about the PTE regulars kills some time on sunday since we have 4 hours between sessions and do some dynoe runs to compare #s?

Forgot to add in above post my .02 about dyno's.

This is just my opinion, not saying any of you guys would do this.
(In racing you have cheaters and looser.)
(You’re only cheating if you get caught)
I would not believe anyone’s dyno #'s if trying to enforce any sort of power equation.
Here are a few simple things I would do if I had a car in this type of class with a killer engine.

1. Throttle pedal stop. Any form, even a magnet on the floorboard that looks like a typical plastic throttle stop. Etc... I have seen noticeable power gains, I am sure Kevin would agree, from things like removing a floor mat....
Could be enforced by having the pedal on the floor and have a 3rd party open the throttle to see if there is any "play"
2. Back timing way neg. Beware of those with ticks or marks on the dizzy housing.
3. Swap in old crappy ignition components. I mean the ones where you really see a diff. in performance. Not just seat of the pants these red wires really make my car fast type.
4. Fuel psi. adjust to make less power.
5. Add/fab a restrictor to go in the intake behind the Air filter.
6. Exh restrictor again....
7. Drag brakes, disconnect brake light switch even if momentary switch
8. Run low tire pressure.
9. Heavy wheels.
10. Set toe way out.

These are just a few I thought of quickly off the top of my head.

hi guys!

i am running 225-50-16 tires (same size i have always run in PTx); the probe prefers 245-45-16s, but i don't want to expend the points on the larger size....

and yes, harper, i have been using the ptcalculator! i LOVE it! i even have it on my laptop now....

thanks, joe, for the insight; its basically what my tuner friend said; i wish i had gotten a set of NKG-R 7s instead of 6s; i'll pull out the plugs after this weekend and if they are showing glazing again, i'll order a set of 7s.... joe -- do you think it is hurting my motor from making power? it seems weaker than it used to be; it seems that it has been getting slightly weaker over time.... i'm guessing that might be due to lots of wear and tear; it certainly has been using much more oil than it used to!!!!

joe -- here is a picture for you to look at; in the center is one of the two 'good' plugs; not glazed, just running a little rich. to the left and right are two of the 'glazed' plugs; one is a little worse than the other...

what do you think? all three plugs were sprayed with brake-e-cleaner and then dried overnight; they are all dry and clean....

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/2425/probeglazedsparkplugs.jpg (http://img167.imageshack.us/my.php?image=probeglazedsparkplugs.jpg)

they really look like they were painted with a glaze and then put in a kiln!!! lol!