Hello,

just don't know what to do........

I need a new end for my exhaust..... but am not too sure about what to buy.

I have several options :

Buying an original from Nissan @ € 145,-
Buying a sebring @ € 290,-
or handmade stainlees steel @ € 400,-

here you can find an image of the handmade stainless steel exhaust :
http://www.uitlaten.com/imagesb/761.jpg

Just let me know what to do, i drive a 1992 nissan 100nx. Am planning to drive this one as long as possible but on the other hand; i can buy 3 original ones for the price of one handmade...

just tell me what you would do so I can make up my mind......

Best regards,

Gerbrand Hut
The Netherlands

Get the Nissan one, then get dual exhaust tips. Then you'll have the looks and the leftover money.

Exhaust alone doesn't give much power anyway.

Hello,

thank you for your reply....

why i am not so sure, is because of the fact nissan ones start getting rusty pretty fast don't they?

I didn't expect the stainless steel to give more power, but maybe a bit nicer sound; but not to exaggerating.

How do the other people feel about this?

BR

Gerbrand Hut

Hello,

well, yesterday I ordered the original one...

but I also ordered lowering springs from MAD, they will lower the car 4 cm! So that should be looking nice :)

Will also post some pics of my car here, before and after....
Please see this one, this is when I first bought it:
http://www.gsmhut.nl/auto/100nx.jpg

Gerbrand,

you did the correct thing when you ordered the stock muffler. If you have no other mods on the exhaust it is the best you can have. Why did you think that they rust easily? I have mine on my car for 10 years now and it only started rusting last year! And the weather in Holland is not so rust-favoring.

As for the springs, it has long been established over in the US that 4cm is WAY TOO LOW for standard shocks and moderate spring rates. Unless the spring rate is very high (100% stiffer than the original i.e. > 200 lbs/inch you will be bottoming very often).

Chris

Thank you for your answer!

I was told the springs could be done, without changing the other things.

Who has also lowered his car? And did you also have to change the shocks?

Just let me know!

BR

Gerbrand Hut

Originally posted by Gerbrand
Thank you for your answer!
I was told the springs could be done, without changing the other things.
Who has also lowered his car? And did you also have to change the shocks?


No problem. That's what forums are for! :)

Lots of people went through the lowering saga. Practically everyone in the States started lowering their Sentras and NXs back in the "dark ages" (circa 1994) by using stock struts and Eiback Prokit or Sportline springs (3-4cm lower) that were the only available lowering springs back then.

They soon found out that our suspensions do not have much travel and lowering 4cm leaves very little suspension travel (~4-5cm at MOST). The result was a continuous bottoming of the suspension.

They tried to "go around" this problem by cutting the bump-stop to 1/2 of its height so they gained 1cm of travel but still there were problems. The consensus now is that you should get a very stiff spring (~300lbs/inc from 200+ lb/inch rear) if you want to lower more than 2.5cm. In this case ytou should also upgrade to stiffer struts since the stock ones will soon be destroyed since they were not designed to dump such stiff springs.

Ask your supplier for the exact spring rate is for the springs you ordered. If it is close to 150lb/inch you will bottom. If they cannot tell you what the rate is DO NOT get them.

Unless you are not interested in handling or you are driving at low speeds in smooth roads you should be concerned and look for at least 180/150 lb/inch (front/rear). Otherwise stay with the stock springs.

Chris

well

i already have them here :)

I will see if i can find it out.....

How much will new shocks cost you think?

If you have them there is not much you can do.

I do not think you will need new shocks. 99% of the aftermarket springs I have seen are softer than 160lb/inch and the stock Nissan struts can handle those springs.

This leaves you with only the possibilty/worry of bottoming. In any case, try to find the spring rate for both front and rear springs you have. It is aways good to know what exactly you have on your car.

Chris

well,

found the following information on the springs:

L174 FRONT 139/00
L190 FRONT 124/00

So, what does it mean?:confused:

Thanks in advance!

Lxxx may be a Part# from the manufacturer in which case it has no meaning for us. It may also be the free-spring (uncompressed) length of the spring. In this case I will have to compare them with the specs from the original NX springs and figure out what it means if we consider it with the spring rate.

The second number seems to be the spring rate for the springs.

139 lb/inch for the fronts, 124 lb/inch for the rear. If this is so it means that they are ~15% stiffer than stock, your struts willhave no problem at all with them and you should be looking out for bottoming!

If it bottoms you will feel it! At a modrate speed if you hit a bump you will feel it in your seat, a "thump"-like feeling. If you are turning and hit a bump, after the feeling on your seat you will feel the side of the car (front/rear) that bottomed moving to the outseide of the turn.

Chris

[

If it bottoms you will feel it! At a modrate speed if you hit a bump you will feel it in your seat, a "thump"-like feeling. If you are turning and hit a bump, after the feeling on your seat you will feel the side of the car (front/rear) that bottomed moving to the outseide of the turn.

Chris [/B][/QUOTE]

Well Thank you!

When I pass a road"block" i always drive very slow, because my brothers always have this. One drives an BMW Alpina C2, which is also very very low; so I've got some experience with handling this.... :D

But the /00 doesn't it mean per cm ? Well, I will see when we have installed them coming week. I will also post some pics of it!

BR

Gerbrand Hut
The Netherlands

Try to look for some KYB AGX. They are 4 way adjustable in the front and 8 way adjustable in the rear.