Hi guys,

I change the motor oil on my race car after two race weekends, ie, 4 racing days. Each day has three track sessions of 20-30 minutes long. I use Mobil 1 10w-30 or 15w-50.

Is that too soon? Or is it not soon enough?

What do you do on your race car?

Mobil 1 10w-30 is not a good as it use to be after they reformulated it. If you are going to use Mobil 1 I would recommend 15w-50.

Mobil 1 10w-30 is not a good as it use to be after they reformulated it. If you are going to use Mobil 1 I would recommend 15w-50.

Any details on this? I've heard this before but never saw and data or additional information as to what happened.

I change every 2 weekends as well. I used to use Mobil 1 5W30 (for about 2 seasons on the same engine and never had any problems) then switched to Royal Purple 5W30 late last year to try it out. Haven't seen much of a difference yet.

hi.

i change my oil twice a year; once at the beginning of the season, and once in the middle. i do about 14 weekends a year in the car (Ford Probe GT). i use mobil 1 5w-30. engine is stock KL V6. stock radiator, and stock oil cooler/warmer. i've never had an engine related failure in almost 50k track miles....

i check the oil every track session, and keep it topped up to 1/2 qt over full.

I was actually thinking about this, and I think that the thinner oils are better to prevent starvation since it'll return to the sump faster. I don't think the thicker oil resists sloshing noticeably more than the thinner stuff, especially considering the oil ends up hotter with the 50wt.

I have a car that use on track, but it is stock, no cams, no header, you know what I mean, and I use 20w50.

I change oil almost every weekend race, it is 2 time attack (10 min each)
and a race 6 laps (30-35 minutes).
But this weekend race, are 3 months away from each other...

too much? not enough?

I was actually thinking about this, and I think that the thinner oils are better to prevent starvation since it'll return to the sump faster. I don't think the thicker oil resists sloshing noticeably more than the thinner stuff, especially considering the oil ends up hotter with the 50wt.

Mobil1 0-w40. Change just about every race weekend. Very cheap insurance. Cost alot more to build a new engine.

If your Racing the car you should run a 50 weight. Why don't you try Eneos oil? It's number one in Japan and I know a place to get it at a real good price if your interested...

amsoil is really good.........

I agree... Just hard to come across

I would use amsoil 20w50 or there 50 weight if your going to race in the weekends.

I think 50W is over kill. Thicker oil costs HP, and doesn't protect any better. But of course, that's just my opinion.

If your Racing the car you should run a 50 weight. Why don't you try Eneos oil? It's number one in Japan and I know a place to get it at a real good price if your interested...

Lol, the Japanese don't give a rat's ass about changing oil. Why do you think every JDM motor you get has an inch of oil sludge on every internal part? Either way, I don't think you can beat $22 for 5 quarts of Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart... :D

Please, explain your 50w theory.

I would use amsoil 20w50 or there 50 weight if your going to race in the weekends.

Why amsoil? What's so great about it? I have a buddy who has tested Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil and others to their limits (worked for Parker-Hannifin) and Mobil 1 came out on top in temperature breakdown resistance and lubricative properties. What's your reasoning?

I would also like you to explain why you'd use 50w. Do you use this in your racecar?

I think 50W is over kill. Thicker oil costs HP, and doesn't protect any better. But of course, that's just my opinion.

Yep. Not only does it not protect any better, it also gets hotter since it is slower moving and is more work for the oil pump. You want more volume passing hot rotating assembly parts, not less. As long as you're making about 10psi for every 1000rpm, there's no real need to go thicker.

There was an article about this I read a couple of years ago. I haven't been able to find the link though. Anyone know what I'm talking about? It was written by a circulatory specialist of some sort...

My oil is from 2006.




Rotella 4 lyfe.

I use regular old Pennzoil or Havoline.... whatever's cheapest. 10w-30.

I change my oil every 1-2 track weekends depending on how much track time I get.

I'm in the minority not using synthetic but it's working for me. I'm showing the same oil pressure since I installed this motor 2.5 years ago.

My oil is from 2006.




Rotella 4 lyfe.

Lol, in your PSD?

BTW, 7.3 or 6.0?

Go do some research on oils... I came across Bob the oil guy on his forum and he got a degree studying oil lubricity and viscosity as well as wrenched on high end cars for years. Im not going to start to answer your question because there is enough info. out there to figure out for yourself what is best suited for you. Everyone has a right to their opinion and Im not trying to change anyones mind. Just letting you know whats out there.

Lol, the Japanese don't give a rat's ass about changing oil. Why do you think every JDM motor you get has an inch of oil sludge on every internal part? Either way, I don't think you can beat $22 for 5 quarts of Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart... :D

Please, explain your 50w theory.



Why amsoil? What's so great about it? I have a buddy who has tested Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil and others to their limits (worked for Parker-Hannifin) and Mobil 1 came out on top in temperature breakdown resistance and lubricative properties. What's your reasoning?

I would also like you to explain why you'd use 50w. Do you use this in your racecar?



Yep. Not only does it not protect any better, it also gets hotter since it is slower moving and is more work for the oil pump. You want more volume passing hot rotating assembly parts, not less. As long as you're making about 10psi for every 1000rpm, there's no real need to go thicker.

There was an article about this I read a couple of years ago. I haven't been able to find the link though. Anyone know what I'm talking about? It was written by a circulatory specialist of some sort...

I believe that the only reason to use higher viscosity oil is when your engine bearing clearances require it.

Thicker oils fill the gap better than thinner oils. As long as there is enough pressure to "float" the crankshaft in it's bearings, the thinner oil you can use the better. Thinner oil means more HP due to less parasitic drag on the engine. Also, as rockwood pointed out, it's less work to pump it to where it needs to go.

Remember, the oil doesn't lube the crankshaft, it acts as a barrier layer to keep the crank from hitting the bearing (float).

Lol, in your PSD?

BTW, 7.3 or 6.0?

Why yes, in my PSD as well. 7.3.


But seriously. I run Rotella in everything I own. 15w40 baby and you can buy like 21 gallons at Walmart for $7. It's a Sentra, it doesnt need any fancy schmancy labcoat motor oil. I love me some crushed up brontosaurus.

Oh and I was mostly serious about how old the oil is as well. Probably more realistically it's from Feb of 2007.

I started running 5w-40 Shell Rotella (synthetic) in the 240sx this year. 300+ track miles so far and the motors still spinning :).