Epic fail.

well, everyone thinks differently. this may look ugly but it works well n cost very little.

i wish kits like AEM cold air intake are sold in my country, but it isnt. most of us here are using flex pu hoses to do our cold air intake here, some hidden beneath the bumper, some just like me, putting a hole in the bumper.

it's the engine respond improvement counts
Has this "response improvement" been measured? How do you know, for sure, that it "works well"?

VE motors are not officially sold in the U.S., but we get them. Imported.

JDM parts in general...imported.

MDM parts by the truckload....imported.

No company in Malaysia is importing automobile products from Japan or the U.S.? I find that hard to believe.

The only extra thing to consider is that with hard piping that is tuned, it creates a pulse effect with the air. Its not just about the air being cold, but being 'pulsed' in tune into the engine.

Think about wind instruments. thats why a cold air intake that is designed with tuning behind it will create more power than simply putting cold air into the stock airbox.
Agreed.

Not only that, but how about the air turbulence created by the "flex hose"?

That DIY intake is not only not "pulsing" but it is creating a freakin' hurricane of crosswinds, side winds, and an airflow-mess inside that corrugated tubing.

In my opinion it should be more facing forward, because correct me if I am wrong but wouldnt a side intake with air blowing by cause a vacuum out of the intake instead of in.
You are correct. Like opening your window a crack with a cigarette, the smoke (air) in the cabin gets sucked outwards.

Why would a side intake on the vehicle do anything different? It sure as hell is not "ramming" the air into the hole in the side of the bumper.

Either way, with stock intake and exhaust, that mod is good for 0 hp
I disagree. ;)

Based on the points above, that DIY intake is more than likely hurting performance. I'd bet cash-green-money that the OP is actually losing a couple horsepower with that intake. Along with resale value due to the hole in the side of his bumper.

That looks like trailer-park engineering, and guess-work overly optimistic results, at its finest. :thumbsdown:

end of thread

^ you just registered, you dont get to end threads.

well, I have seen exhaust and wastegate exits out the side like this. Extra holes FTW I guess

This is true but it causes a scavenging affect on the exhaust and helps pull it out. The same goes for the wastegate pipe. It creates a negative pressure because of the air going over the opening and helps pull it out.

Although I think your setup looks cool, but you have to remember the others are exhaust, meaning out.

I do however give props for diyers

I still have a soft spot for DIY-ing against the grain, even if its more for fun than effect.

FWIW, I thought about doing this same mod but with a NACA duct in place of the space where the sidemarker is on a B13. (and fixed tubing instead of flexible 'accordion-style')

There's an Australian article on it, but the best way to do this 'scientifically' is to measure air pressure at different points on the front end of the car, to find the highest pressure point.

I think the bottom line the article found on their car is that most areas are low-ish pressure except for right above the headlights.

Has this "response improvement" been measured? ...

Shawn couldn't agree more with those points. In fairness I also claimed "improved throttle response" from a full 3" CAI with pop, which I cannot measure. That's really subjective. I drove the car for dozens of autox and probably 500 track miles w/o the intake+pop, then went down to NJMP end of May and the difference was impressive. Between the prior outing and NJMP my TT time gap relative to regular competitors I know pretty well went significantly in my favor on a course that rewards instant-on throttle.

I guess the best I can say is you drive a car at 10/10ths or 9/10ths long enough on the track, that's where I see the "right now" difference. Jumping throttle hard to pass another car, the response is excellent. I really notice it above 5000 rpm where I pretty much spend all my time anyway :)

I don't want to jack what is already a pretty weird thread into CAI discussion, but I do believe throttle response, while tough to measure, can be reliably claimed when you're pushing the car hard under similar conditions and you have a good before/after feel for how the motor responds. Driving around town, no. Not unless you're fixing a very loose throttle cable ;)

Corrugated tubing? Wow. :eek:

I still have a soft spot for DIY-ing against the grain, even if its more for fun than effect.

FWIW, I thought about doing this same mod but with a NACA duct in place of the space where the sidemarker is on a B13. (and fixed tubing instead of flexible 'accordion-style')

There's an Australian article on it, but the best way to do this 'scientifically' is to measure air pressure at different points on the front end of the car, to find the highest pressure point.

I think the bottom line the article found on their car is that most areas are low-ish pressure except for right above the headlights.

What is a "NACA" duct?

I've also seen some convincing discussion that with low enough resistance to flow you can pretty easily channel air into a relative high pressure "zone" into the center of the car, for example the Sunny 2-fog w/plate mount cutout vs. USDM bumpers. The stock USDM bumpers boggle my mind in how they seem to completely ignore the flow requirements of air over the radiator, their only significant open area is too low for anything other than maybe brake ducting.

Your point about optimal high pressure height being at the level above the headlights, or roughly level with just below top of the radiator is supported by numerous OEM performance intake designs. I have no need for an aftermarket fender well intake in my G Coupe, the OEM design is really sound - and level with the bottom front line of the hood.

I've since ditched the tube (flex tube = bad) and put a popcharger inside the box in place of the OEM paper filter, but otherwise the air routing is the same. I logged my IAT's during normal driving on a ~90 deg day, and they ran around +10 deg F over ambient at most. When underhood temps are more like 120, 140, etc. and IAT is only < 100 deg F, you know it's helping. Stationary at idle, IAT however was high, unlike an external CAI where it's completely outside the engine bay (like my B13), which again runs not much above ambient even sitting and idling, usually ~+10 deg F at the cone. I also have checked the tubing with a digital point and shoot thermometer and there's no heat soak effect of significance with the additional 3" Aluminum tubing, the external cold air keeps the actual tubing temps low.

http://homepage.mac.com/stracy01/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2003-12-30%2008.53.32%20-0800/Image-478ABFFC3AE811D8.jpg

I probably over-measured and over analyzed this but with all the smack talk from "CAI's suck and produce 0 whp" to "CAI's are good for +10", etc. measuring it myself convinced me. And cooler IAT's with more dense air producing more power than hot air, that's a proven fact.

What is a "NACA" duct?

http://secure.chassisshop.com/images/parts/ClearNacaFull.jpg
http://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/6014/

A well designed a NACA duct is supposed to 'draw' air inward and with little turbulence.

(PS I am by no means an expert on the topic!)

Thanks, another item I've seen for years, but I didn't know what it was called.

This isn't the article I was thinking about, but it touches on the pressure zones, and even addresses flexible hose!
http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110824/article.html

^ you just registered, you dont get to end threads.

I didnt just register. Can I end this?




BTW Shawn B is right, this is hurting performance. Probably by a considerable amount. Odds are greatly in favor of actually pulling less air in addition to the distance of the intake having an affect on the performance of it, not just the colder the air. The SR20VE actually has been known to perform better with a shorter distance intake, faster air pulled in. Sure its warmer but the engine prefers it.

Best of luck.

Things I agrees:
- AEM Cold Air Intake works, looks damn cool
- DIY Cold Air Intake done right, works
- Airscoop facing front, works with some ram-air effect which is even better

Things I dislike:
- Burning cash on AEM products, which dont yeild more than 5hp
- Cold Air Intake funnel facing front, risk of debris, dirt, flash flood
- Expensive maintenance, have to clean the AEM filter, this n that, waste of time n money. Im using cheap stock filter which is $12, change every 2 months.

Things I am DYING for !
- Adaptronic Standalone Ecu from OZ

Things proven:
- My car overtakes sr20neovvl
- My car overtakes honda accord 2000cc
- My car overtakes CRV 2000cc ivtec
- My car smokes B16A 400meters
- Engine healthy, reliable for everyday use
- No noisy roaring sound during long cruise, cockpit felt alot quiet comfortable
(compared to aftermarket filters)

No ridiculous unpractical mods or aftermarket products for me, Im a race-junky. I dont buy expensive beautiful things that is pointless.

My next project is CUSTOM GARRET TURBO, CUSTOM HEADERS, AND CUSTOM INTAKE MONIFOLD WITH 80mm THROTTLE BODY. (THIS IS WHERE REAL POWER COMES IN, WELL SPENT!)

http://secure.chassisshop.com/images/parts/ClearNacaFull.jpg
http://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/6014/

A well designed a NACA duct is supposed to 'draw' air inward and with little turbulence.

(PS I am by no means an expert on the topic!)

This does helps, but a TURBO helps more:D

Dear Shawn,

Ok, I found out there's a dealer selling AEM cold air intake, the price is RM1200 levied with taxation in my country. Is about USD500 for this thing.

Would u pay, USD500 for this thing ?

There are many of nissan in malaysia runing on SR20VE, but mostly all are NOT race junkies. Just for hobby/past times. They are PROUD to own these "210ps" motors, failed to notice technically it only outputs about 130whp from the 6speed helical LSD gbox. 0-100kmh is 8.5seconds.

Mine, I dont need a VE, I goes highcam, engine management, internal upgrades, doing 7 seconds 0-100kmh. Anyway my displacement rebored to 2200cc. DO I STILL NEED AEM Cold Air Intake to "improve" my engine power ? hehe, I donot think so.

The only seemingly technical WORKABLE way to improve my timing to 6 seconds or 5.5 seconds, are only 2 options.
- Reduce car to 900kg
- Add turbo

But likely Im gonna do both, customized CF hood, CF front seats, Fiberglass side windows, Titanium catback, and turbocharge.

So again, is the AEM costing USD500 in my country is a well spent money ?

Motorsports in our country is not as cheap as overseas, this is a main reason why we comes up with alot brainy tinkers with local tuned setups and diff way of modding an engine.

My on-road tuning of the Emanage Blue management. Setting is 13:1 on AirFuel ratio all round.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m296/proton86gts/Car%20Tuning/DSC00351.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m296/proton86gts/Car%20Tuning/DSC00353.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m296/proton86gts/Car%20Tuning/DSC00355.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m296/proton86gts/Car%20Tuning/DSC00358.jpg

Latest video 0-60mph (we call it 0-100kmh here)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tj3ZVKz6GC8

In technical facts, I need to rev higher all the way to 8000rpm, to improve my timing. Hence, my tuner has a way to rechip my management to "throw" the revcut away from my ecu. I believe reving to 8000rpm, I am able to make 100kmh in 6.5 seconds, and 160kmh in 15seconds.

honestly dude youve spent money on these parts above but wont buy a REAL intake?:confused::confused:

but hey its ur car...

like i said before....
why dont you dyno/tune ur car with ur DIY thing....then BORROW or just BUY a real intake, DYNO/tune it agian and see what the differnces are and PROVE US ALL WRONG

already tested, difference is 3hp (that is so lame)

3hp = USD500 (I'd kill myself if I buy)

0-100kmh timing makes NO different

no offence....