I'm tiring of my clutch slipping after I shift, so I'm likely to be putting a new one in soon. I don't want to spend $330+ on a clutch right now, as I'm not sure how much modding I'm going to do to this engine, so I want to put a clutch in that will at least handle the typical bolt ons, I/H/E. However, if a stock setup is going to cost me $200 something, I'll go ahead and put a mild ACT in. I've heard good things about the 99 SE disc with a JWT PP, but that's still out of my price range for this clutch if I can get away with another cheap AutoZone kit. Should I just throw a stock setup back in, or is there some inexpensive benefit from a different disc, such as the 99 SE with a stock PP? I bought a cheap clutch set at AutoZone for the XE, but that thing slips at high RPM's, at least it feels like it is. So I don't want that kind of shit going on with this clutch, but I don't want to spend a bunch on it either. Maybe I'm wanting something I can't have. I appreciate any input. Thanks.

I've got a 2001 SE clutch disk and PP if you want it. I'll sell for 50 bucks.

Buy the 2.0 clutch kit from www.nissanaccessories.com for 99.95 (free shipping). This kit will give you the pressure plate that JWT "modifies" for a fraction of the price. It is a Daiken plate, which NismoPC knows a little about. If he reads this, I'm sure he'll respond.

Buy the 2000 Sentra SE disc from courtesyparts.com for 55-60, plus shipping. Find some sort of alignment tool, get some good gear oil for your tranny, and you'll have a nice new clutch setup for less than $200.

Both myself, NismoNx2000 both with I/H/E, and wolfcri all run this setup. No problems, at all.

i bought the center force dual friction from nopi for $327.50, I know you said you wanted to go cheap but on a clutch going cheap will end up costing you more in the long run. If you buy a cheap clutch it will wear out prematurely due to the bolt ons/abuse you will be giving it, so you will have to replace clutch sooner. I say if your gonna take the time and money to do your clutch do it the right way once and be done with.. why just postpone the problem only to have it reappear sooner than later? I would also accompany that new clutch with some redline mt-90,clutch cable, oem t.o. bearing, rear main seal, tranny/akle seals, I also had the es motor mounts, tq mounts, and shifter bushing put in at the same time (if you dont already have them). My clutch job ended up totalling just over $900 for parts and labor.. expensive yes but I know it was done right and now I do not have to worry about anything for a very long time.. just my $.02

I should know this, but alas, I don't. What is it about any given pressure plate that makes it better than any other? I mean, it's a thick, heavy, flat piece of metal. Other than it's surface area, which would have to be at least as big as the disc, what is there to make it better? Is it similar to having larger rotors, a certain PP is bigger and thicker so it dissipates heat better? But that'd add a lot of weight on the crank. While I'm asking questions, why would you "resurface" a flywheel when you replace a clutch? Since the PP bolts to the flywheel, it doesn't rub or do anything that would cause the flywheel to need resurfacing. The reason I don't want to spend a bunch on a clutch is because I'm planning on doing a blacktop Avenir swap next spring, and I'd put money into a different clutch for that motor. Hey nice guy, you got pics of that clutch? How many miles on it? Can you weigh it and let me know what shipping would cost? My Zip is 68134. Can't beat $50. Thanks.

You now what I have to say something here, I am always hearing about LMs talking about upgrading your clutchs, If you NA you don't need anything more than a (Stock) Nissan Clutch kit for under $100.00. My stock Nissan Clutch performs way better than anyone I know a upgraded Clutch Master Stage III, Center Force Dual Friction, etc, etc. You guys are over clutching your SE-Rs for reals and I drive the fuck outta my car and it will slightly chirp 3rd gear and the only mod I got SAFC, 17degree timing, PR CAI, I sold the PR CAI and it still chirps 3rd. I bet most of you don't know how to adjust your clutches in the first place and or don't know how to drive. I have beat many SE-Rs with way more mods than I got, for reals there are some slow ass NA SE-Rs out there for the mods they have. Later

Yeah so anyway, If you want to hook up a great setup at a cheap price go with what Nismoser suggested. Like he said, i have the same setup, and last night was the first time i ran with it at the track and it grabbed very nicely. The combination of the daikin pp and the 2001 se disc works great. The disc that the daikin kit comes with is a bit thinner then the se disc. Chris first had the daikin pp and disc on there and his clutch slipped now and again. Its cheap and affective. Which i belive is what ur looking for.

Over do it like I did and get a damn Centerforce DualFriction!!!!
Just buy the damn thing and stop stressing!!!!!!

i got an Ebay clutch kit for 119 shipped, and it came with the Daiken PP and disc, and a decent quality NSK TOB. only has like 5k on it, but i drive the shit out of it and take it to the track alot, no problems yet, it was more of a temporary fix until i can save for boost

60 shipped, how about that?

It's got about 13,000 miles of easy use on it. Before I got hold of the car, my dad drove it for that time.

centerforce sucks, dont even consider buying one. my friend had a centerforce blow up on him and there has been a lot of complaints on these clutches overcentering(worse that the clutchmasters modified p/p). If you wanna go cheap, i would recommend you keep your old p/p and get a 2001 Sentra SE disc from your dealer. Or if you dont mind spending a little money, im selling a used(500miles) ACT Xtreme p/p and a brand new Clutchnet 4 puck sprung hub disc. Although the p/p is used there is no signs of wear at all and still has the machining marks on the friction surface. This set up may be a little extreme, but if you plan to get a turbo or nitrous, then you wont have to worry at all. PM me if your interested

For a cheap upgrade, follow NismoSER's suggestion. It's very effective for bolt-ons, and I've seen it also hold a 50 shot of Nos, so I'm a believer. BTW, I run a Clutchmasters Stage 3 setup and anyone that manages to blow it up either had it installed improperly, adjusted improperly, or just cannot flat out drive. I abuse the hell out of mine and it's still going strong. And to Charlie2020, no disrespect, but what you have is just right for you. Your stock clutch is holding and chirpin 3rd because you don't have enough power yet to make a clutch slip. Stick a few more good mods on there and we'll see how long that baby keeps grippin. I used to think the same thing until one day I was gettin on it, shifted to 2nd, and watched my RPM's rise to 6 grand w/o any increase in speed until the RPM's came down low enough for it to grab a little. My problem also got worse as the weather got colder. In summer heat, wouldn't slip. At night, had to granny shift a bit. By the time winter came, forget it. Did the swap and it was all good. Just my 2 cents.

i think i have a shitty clutch too, stock, 11 years old and 185 000 km. I shifter into 5th and it redlined and im like WTF? yes a new clutch indeed

Originally posted by slipper
centerforce sucks, dont even consider buying one. my friend had a centerforce blow up on him and there has been a lot of complaints on these clutches overcentering(worse that the clutchmasters modified p/p).

I did a search before I bought my centerforce and it was the only clutch with hardly any complaints.. also what do you mean they over center? the centerforce clutches for se-r's dont even have the center weights so I dont see how this is possible.. Just because your friends blew up on him doesnt mean its a bad clutch.. there could have been alot of other variables that played apart in that. I am extremely happy with mine and I know (atleast I'm pretty sure) smoothdaddy is very pleased with his too.

Thanks for the offer slipper, but this is my daily driver and it needs to be street friendly. You got yourself a deal Nice Guy, check your PM.

Stock clutches suck! I put a new Nissan clutch in my Se-r about 7 months ago, you know, the key savings Nissan clutch. Junk. I can barely grab second. When I'm out beating it there is no firm shift. It shifts like a tired automatic. I have used Centerforce clutches in the past and am very happy with them. I had 1 in my other Se-r and had one in my 95 Maxima. Never had a problem and I like the stock feel under normal driving until you take it to redline and they grab hard. When I put the CF clutch in my other Se-r and finally went through the gears, I ripped second HARD and chirped a mean 3rd. I damn near shit myself. People compare JWT clutches and ACT clutches. I compare the clamping force of the pressure plate. The centerforce clutch is rated at 90% over stock while the JWT and the ACT clutches are rated at like 40%. If you notice too, in the Nissan Motorsports catalog they offer Centerforce clutches on all the Nissans. Why is Nissan recommending Centerforce? Hmmm.
Just my 2 cents.