This is getting ridiculous.. I've bought 5 Alternators in the past 3 weeks...
This is what happened. I bought one from Advance when mine went out.. put it in and I started down the road and my car was acting up. I went back and they checked it, told me that one was bad. I ordered one, waited a day and when it came in the next day, they tested it and it was bad too... Well, I ordered a THIRD, it came in and they tested it. Well, this one tested fine. I put it in and have been driving with it for three weeks. Well, two days ago it went out. I ordered another one yesterday. Went in today and had it tested prior to installing and they told me it was bad.... so I got my money back and went to NAPA. Well, Lol I get one from NAPA and it tested bad BEFORE I installed it. So I went to another NAPA and paid 30 bucs more for the LIFETIME alternator.. well, THEY said it was GOOD... GOOD you see. Well Lol I left and headed back to Advance where my car is STILL currently broke down, put it in and started driving. Well, the car started messing up and broke down. Charged the battery and drove it back to Advance. They tested the battery and Alternator and I bet you'll NEVER guess what they told me... YUP, THIS one is BAD as well. Seriously, 5 Alternators in 3 weeks... HALF of them were installed and half deemed faulty before installation. Now, I don't believe I have this bad of luck... I also have that fuse blown. SOMEONE has to have something else they can recommend OTHER THAN a friggin bad alternator...

Also, if my car sits at idle for more than like 8 minutes, it starts getting hot and will over heat if I don't move or turn the A/C on and max out the fan. Any ideas... I was thinking it could be stat but I noticed the fans wont turn on until I turn on the A/C. Shouldn't those turn on if the engine starts reaching a certain temp??

PLEASE someone help me.. I'm honestly contemplating blowing the car up....

If all of these alternators are bad before you get them something is wrong on that end. They've been know to go out due to excessive heat. Do you have anything that's putting and incredible load on it or something?

The car over heating, yes the fans should kick on before it over heats. I believe the ecu switches it on. Temp sensor?

A bad ground could prolly burn up an alternator pretty quickly.

Well, I don't know if its a sensor... I thought it had a 30amp or so fuse that was missing but I looked and there was only one prong sticking out... anyone have a fan fuse in the box beside the battery?
I don't have anything in that car to put too much stress on the alternator or battery and I don't know where the bad ground would be... the ground on both batt an alt are in right..
Like i said, not EVERY alternator made it in but yet all tested bad whether they made it in or not... Two I recall "Tested" fine but they never worked once I installed them. Now, I may not be that great at mechanics or anything but Its not hard to change the alt and I'm positive, especially after the amount I've install in three weeks I have it down by now.

well the thing with the fans it happened with a car i used to own it was basic fuses or sensors for the fan and the reason the fans turn on when you turn on the a/c is because the a/c puts an extra load on the motor and generates more heat so it bypasses the fan switch which turns on the regular fans and the a/c fan to keep it cooler...check your fan switches etc. trace your steps back to the original wiring harness that deals with the running fans

I have been through 5 alternators as well and have had one of them rebuilt 4 times. Mine keeps blowing out the regulator. We have a shop here in town that rebuilds alternators and starters and he says he is doing everything by the book and to exact specs and has checked alternate sources. I ended up just biting the bullet and going to a wrecking yard and buying one used. I havent had any problems out of it yet. It's been probably 3 1/2 months or so

I if i recall correctly, I went through 3 Advanced Auto alternators in about a 4 month period back in 2005. Finally i thought this is enough. I made myself an underdrive pully for it, and I haven't had a problem since. Maybe they are just junk. Try finding a genuine nissan alternator at a salvage yard. (or mitsubishi or whatever oem is)

Edit: Who am I kidding? They definitely are junk. LoL

Ok so yesterday I hit up the Nissan dealer for that 75amp Battery fuse. I put it in, and pulled the neg cable. I put it back on and had advance run a scanner and the test for batt/alt and all is well, The car hasnt a problem since.
On another note, my oil light is coming on at times and flickers... sometimes more during accel... weird thing is that my oil is topped off.. so I don't know what is cause that..

Oil pump!!!! Hurry up and repalce before it just craps out on you and costs you your whole engine. I need to change mine this weekend. Your at the worse stage than I am. Mines only on for 1-2 seconds on start up.

Lol I don't know where the oil pump is... is it in the pan?

Oil pump is attached to the side of the block under the timing cover... annnd I'm pretty sure I have to pull the motor. Never done anything like this nor do I have the resources.. and suggestions?!

This is getting ridiculous.. I've bought 5 Alternators in the past 3 weeks...
This is what happened. I bought one from Advance when mine went out.. put it in and I started down the road and my car was acting up. I went back and they checked it, told me that one was bad. I ordered one, waited a day and when it came in the next day, they tested it and it was bad too... Well, I ordered a THIRD, it came in and they tested it. Well, this one tested fine. I put it in and have been driving with it for three weeks. Well, two days ago it went out. I ordered another one yesterday. Went in today and had it tested prior to installing and they told me it was bad.... so I got my money back and went to NAPA. Well, Lol I get one from NAPA and it tested bad BEFORE I installed it. So I went to another NAPA and paid 30 bucs more for the LIFETIME alternator.. well, THEY said it was GOOD... GOOD you see. Well Lol I left and headed back to Advance where my car is STILL currently broke down, put it in and started driving. Well, the car started messing up and broke down. Charged the battery and drove it back to Advance. They tested the battery and Alternator and I bet you'll NEVER guess what they told me... YUP, THIS one is BAD as well. Seriously, 5 Alternators in 3 weeks... HALF of them were installed and half deemed faulty before installation. Now, I don't believe I have this bad of luck... I also have that fuse blown. SOMEONE has to have something else they can recommend OTHER THAN a friggin bad alternator...

Also, if my car sits at idle for more than like 8 minutes, it starts getting hot and will over heat if I don't move or turn the A/C on and max out the fan. Any ideas... I was thinking it could be stat but I noticed the fans wont turn on until I turn on the A/C. Shouldn't those turn on if the engine starts reaching a certain temp??

PLEASE someone help me.. I'm honestly contemplating blowing the car up....

Had the same problem to a tee. Finally did some digging around the engine bay, and found where one of the wires had the insulation rubbed off it. Maybe from the movement of the engine torquing over or something....who knows. Replaced the wire, never had a problem again. So I would closely inspect all your wiring.

Glad to hear that the 75 amp battery fuse took care of the issue....same thing happened to my 96 when I first bought the car, and that's what ended up being the problem. Granted, I did have a few other issues as well! And unfortunately, you do sometimes run into issues with rebuilt alternators occasionally, whether it's carquest, napa, advance, or otherwise...you would be suprised at the interchangability of the rebuilders between the companies.. of course, a complete diagnosis always helps. None of the parts stores have the ability to do a complete and totally accurate diagnosis on a system...just a general direction of what may be going on

Well, the oil light has gotten worse. I still don't think its the pump. I was told to check the wiring but I've been so frikkin busy I haven't had the chance. Someone also suggested the oil pressure sensor sendor... something I don't know but it was 8 bucs and I have to find where this tiny part goes and the stupid haynes man doesn't show anything on it. I hate that book its helps me none. I really do want to sell this car... half the stuff is new.

Anyone know where the oil pressure switch is located??

the oil pressure sensor is located under the intake manifold close to the pulley side.

Ok so the switch is located just above the brace on the back of the motor near the pass side axle. The wire that comes from the top of the motor that connects to the switch was seperated from the switch like it was cut or something. I'm going to replace it and see what happened. Also, I'm hearing this wicked click pop and I can feel it in the steering... Also, I can feel something when I gas it an let off... like its torque steer while I'm driving. I think my effin rack is going out

Click/pop/torque steer is probably the CV joints. Steering rack doesn't make those kinds of noises.
When you fix the wire on the oil pressure sender, look at it for an oil leak. They tend to let oil weep out after awhile.

The cvs are brand new as well as the control arms, the bushings in the control arms, ball joints, outter tie rods... The car feels like its trying to get away in turns and when I'm driving and I brake/accelerate...
Also, under the hood the sticker says platinum plugs... I run iridium so I wonder if thats affecting my performace?

Also, I reconneted the wire to the oil switch that was on the car and my light is gone. So I took the old switch back to advance because I didn't need it but while under there I saw some other wires not connected to stuff an my tranny is now throwing a code... Lol I hate this car.