Does anybody have any tips for installing a header on a 99? I will probably be installing it this week, if time permits.

The only thing i suggest is changing the nuts from locknuts with the plastic inserts, to a regular nut and a lock washer... I looked under my car and the locknuts inserts melted... they'll still hold but i plan to replace them with a lock washer...

And you already welded the hole...

So only other thing is be prepared to fight with the egr tube

I see you have a Pacesetter. I'm not going to say this will happen, but the holes in the header MAY not line up properly with the ones in the head. This was the case when I did mine, and I was too lazy to do it myself, so I took it to a muffler shop and let them put it on.

Eventually when I put the HS header on, it was a piece of cake, everything lined up. Sometimes people have problems with the EGR tube, there's another post about that right now actually. I didnt have to worry about that when I put the HS on...JDM engine :D

good luck

Personal experience.

VERY IMPORTANT! DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE REMOVING MANIFOLD AND INSTALLING HEADER!!

If not, it might cost you a new alternator and 75A Battery fusible link. :eek:

Also, I noticed that the left portion of the manifold flange is butting up against the block. You might want to file about 1/4" off the top corner of the flange before installing. Will make for a tighter fit.

And about the EGR tube. It is tedious, but you will need to either loosen the EGR tube nut at the EGR valve or loosen the 2 bolts holding the EGR valve in place so that it will give you some free play when inserting the EGR tube into the header bung.

Once you have it secrued to the header, then tighten the EGR valve back down.

YOU MUST DO EITHER OF THESE OR YOU HAVE THE POSSIBILITY OF STRIPPING THE THREADS IN THE EGR BUNG.

So many tricks so little time...............:D

Take a dremel or a file and smooth out those ports on the header.
Curve the edges of the ports.

Originally posted by SmoothDaddyFig
So many tricks so little time...............:D

Take a dremel or a file and smooth out those ports on the header.
Curve the edges of the ports.
I did that yesterday
VERY IMPORTANT! DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE REMOVING MANIFOLD AND INSTALLING HEADER!!
I don't see the relation. why would it have any effect on the electical system?
but the holes in the header MAY not line up properly with the ones in the head.
I was already expecting that one from previous post along with the EGR.
Actually Iv'e already done my research here on the forum, but I figured why not get as much as possible before rather than after.

Originally posted by Ericdd
I did that yesterday

I don't see the relation. why would it have any effect on the electical system?


It's easy to short out the alternator causing the fuse to blow... the reason is one of the bolts in pretty close to the alternator, so when removing it, you may contact the ratchet... I had a few sparks with mine but no fuse blew...

One very important tip regardless of header type is to hit those exhaust bolts with PB blaster before you go at it. Especialy the #1 manifold stud bolt, that one in particular has a high occurance of breakage. Get new studs too. There is nothing like a broken head stud to ruin a header install. Tking out the rad fans might give you a little extra room to work but is not mandatory. If you are using the HS header get a stubby 9/16" wrench it will make putting the primary/secondary joint together much easier.

Does anybody have the FSM procedure for the install. I have an install procedeure I pulled of the web but I would like as much as possible.

Originally posted by civicdragon
It's easy to short out the alternator causing the fuse to blow... the reason is one of the bolts in pretty close to the alternator, so when removing it, you may contact the ratchet... I had a few sparks with mine but no fuse blew...

Just as civicdragon stated. You will come in contact with the alternator no matter what with your ratchet and or torque wrench becuase of the location of the left farthest nut fastener.

What happens is you are putting pressure down on the positive post of the alternator (cover on top with a red rubber housing)causing it to bend and eventually, if you put enough force on it, the metal post will touch the alternator casing and cause the alternator to ground out.

Lucky if you only blow the fusible link (est. $12). Unlucky, if you blow the alternator as well (est. $170-$300).

I'll be careful.....