ok for the past week i have been searching this sight gathering information and trying to get everythign together. i have a B15 sentra SE, i want to put in a GTiR deT in my car. its been done before, so i knwo its possible. i want to know what setup everyone is running i.e. injectors, fuel pump & rail, MAF, ECU(programmed to what?), turbo size, intercooler, boost, clutch & flywheeel, everythign down to what spark plugs, and if you ahve dyno #s and 1/4 mile times. i want to get an idea of what i want to build to and what i can expect if done right. i knwo alot baout the sr20de, i am a nitrous junkie, but i need more power, i want to be in the 250-280 range, 300 would be nice. i just need to know what is everything i need and want. this would be greatly helpful, like i said before i have colleted alot of importmation already but most of its imcomplete, i need a complete list and setup, from the guys who have done the swap already, even guys with the BB deT thats would be helpful too, thanks in advance.

try a search.....I will look to see what I can come up with,
JCC

for that HP range..... JWT ecu, cobra maf, 50lb injectors, new fuel rail, bigger fuel pump(ZTT or walbro 255), t28. Want more power? S3, S4 cams, bigger turbo, bigger injectors, custom intake manifold. 6 heat range plugs, NGK, start .030 gap. Easiest intercooler, Hotshot setup (they make a downpipe too). Custom 3" exhaust. Dunno about clutch. Flywheel, whatever the hell you want.

That should be everything you need to know.

Khiem

well, of course you'll need to figure out all of the oil line fittings, sizes and such on your own(-3,-4 AN size oil line to start you off). and you'll need to tap into the coolant system to run coolant thru a t28; so you'll need fittings and tees and clamps and nuts and bolts and all that good stuff for all the little things. Oh, and you'll need various 6mm, 8mm silicone vacuum lines. and a 1.2 bar ZTT radiator cap.

Well, i guess if you just swap a whole GTi-R setup in, you won't have to worry about some of that. I guess a piece of advice would be to give yourself a month of downtime. It's all the little things that mess you up (like forgetting that vacuum tee).

fromw hat i have read the GTiR comes with a BB T28...right? and that will be good for up to 250-280 range?

and this whoel cobrea MAF thing has got me lost, where the hell do it get one of those, and hwo the hell do i wire it in, i have to search that out.

Well, another piece of advice.... don't even THINK turbo until you understand how the whole system works. Once you figure out about air flow sensors, fuel management, wastegates, blowoff valves, fuel pressure regulators, how they all hook up, intercoolers, boost controllers, etc. then you can think about putting on a turbo. Go to howstuffworks.com and look it up. As for the cobra maf, well, maf stands for mass air flow, it measures the amount of air into the motor so the ecu knows how much fuel to inject so that you get the proper a/f ratios. the Cobra part is because it's from a Mustang Cobra. How does it hook up? It plugs right in the place of the original maf. All this stuff is in se-r.net and those archives. Pretty much all the info is in se-r.net or here if you search for it. Oh yeah, swapping in a GTi-R has its own complexities compared to even just swapping in a BB/Avenir DET.

Khiem

Why do you want the Gti-r motor in there? I would just pay less for an Avenir or BB or maybe even a VE and then just upgrade components on that. The Gti-r has way too many parts that differ, so it might be a PITA if you mess up the first time around, then downtime might go from weeks to months,
JCC

well the GTiR swap as been done beofr eon the B15 travis helped with it, and i am just goign to get travis to do it all, i knwo how a MAF works, and what it does, i had no idea how it hooked up, i didn't know it just plugged in and used the same connectors. and was the simple.

the reason i want the GTiR over the BB, is because from what i have read the GTiR is much stronger and has a better turbo to start off with. also better intake manifold, and turbo manifold. now i could be wrong but can't the GTiR hold like 450+ on stock internals and the BB only 350?, i want to push the 300 range and i want room to play with i don; wnat to be pushing towards the edge of a motor. i could just do a BB rebuild the bottom end, and upgrade the turbo and everythign else, and run mad power, but that may be more then i want to spend right now. i am looking in th $8k range for the complete package installed. and i want 300WHP.

i know how a turbo works and how everything goes together, i know about sensors and all that, and the way a fuel system works, i just don't have the balls to do a swap myself, i would want help from someone who has done it. travis knows about the whole ECU re pin swap. so i am goign to pay him to make it work. i would much rather just have it done, and drive it, then have to play with it and worry about shit going wrong.

i am going to be off the road for 3 years so i have a huge time frame, and it will be a track only car, and bring it out once in a while on dealer tags, in the 3 eyar period.

the DE block has been proven to withstand 400whp+, doesn't mean it's reliable at that power level. Sure you can make a couple of track passes, but don't expect to run any of these motors all day long with that much power, maybe if built to handle the abuse they can take it, but then you would no way in hell be able to handle it. Have travis do the whole thing for you, for the $8k you should be able to get a pretty nice swap and setup from him, 300whp should be cake, but no way with a T28, maybe a straight T3, a ball bearing GT turbo, or a small newer Garret T3/T4.
JCC

oh yeha daily driving 7 PSI then when i want to race bump it up...WAY UP. but i figured the T28 would max out and i would need a bigger turbo. i will see what he has to say, thanks for the help.

no problem. You could do even 10psi all day long on a t3/t4, that would do fine on 93 octane. At the track you can go ahead and put it to 18psi as long as everything else is there, 50lb msd injectors at 4bar, C16 gas, etc.
JCC

Yeah, I am getting help/parts from travis too. But, would it not be easier to just turbo the existing SR20 in your B15. That is what I am doing because I dont have a§§loads of money to spend on the complication of the GTiR engine. I dunno maybe you have different plans than I do with my B15. I am going to run a T28, Greddy EManage, electronic boost control, BBminifold (ported a bit), 50# injectors, greddy BOV, kevlar clutch, custom mandrel tubing, custom mandrel bent exhaust (2.5"), and an SVO aftermarket performance FMIC for an 86 Stang. My power will prob be about 210-220whp at 7psi and i dunno about 12psi. We will see when it gets to the point where I need to spank a Mustang or a suped Honda.;)

the reason i want the GTiR over the BB, is because from what i have read the GTiR is much stronger and has a better turbo to start off with. also better intake manifold, and turbo manifold. now i could be wrong but can't the GTiR hold like 450+ on stock internals and the BB only 350?, i want to push the 300 range and i want room to play with i don; wnat to be pushing towards the edge of a motor. i could just do a BB rebuild the bottom end, and upgrade the turbo and everythign else, and run mad power, but that may be more then i want to spend right now. i am looking in th $8k range for the complete package installed. and i want 300WHP.



For 8K you better get more that 300WHP.

I am glad you came here and asked questions and not go on theory like others who come from other camps and assume their technology works the same on Nissans.

A DE can handle 400hp. Why not just get a FMAXkit if it is available? 300WHP+ out of a FWD will make a very annoying street car. Talk about part throttle in bad weather! Uuck! Other than that you are on the right track and there is nothing wrong with a BB or Avier motor!

For some strange reason I see Chip spinning rod bearings once this motor is in. From his post it sounds like that this car will be at full throttle a lot!

Originally posted by Pretty White
For some strange reason I see Chip spinning rod bearings once this motor is in. From his post it sounds like that this car will be at full throttle a lot!

LOL, you can say that again.
JCC

There is no ECU upgrade currently made for the B15 yet either. So, if you buy a kit, you will need to find a solution to engine management.

for engine management the E-manage works up to 150% of the factory fuel delivery, so if the factory injectors are 320cc(not sure) then the E-manage can manage up to 480cc. Which is good enough for your goals. Also, you can buy a complete wiring harness from a 95-97 se-r along with those years O2 sensor, and IACV....and then running a JWT computer on that. Or we can also run a standalone system(e.g. Haltech, etc),
JCC

P.S. I and a couple of others already mapped out the 95-97 to 2000-up pins on the harnesses, so if somebody wants to spend the time to cut and solder 100 wires and then re-pin the newer harness, then you can do that also. Did I forget to mention you still have to replace the sensors? so you might as well just find yourself a 95-97 wiring harness and safe yourself hours and hours of monkey work...plus you still have to use a JWT ECU for a 95-97.

Chip.. there's no reason for you to get a GTI-R for the levels that you are going to be running. Get yourself a T3/T04E turbo, manifold, Emanage, 50lb injectors, and a nice intercooler. The stock injectors are 259cc.. The emanage can handle up to 150% bigger injectors. That's 647.5cc... 50lb injectors are around 525cc I believe.. so you will be well within range there. Get with me if you want to get something setup.
Travis

Trav.....are you dissin' my math skills?
JCC

e-manage.. so is the fuel delivery capacity 50% greater than stock (i.e. 1.5x stock) or 150% greater than stock (i.e. 2.5x stock)?

So, what are you going to do when parts break on the GTi-R motor? Alot of replacement parts are gonna have to come from Japan, which involves alot of down time and $$$...