: BIN Request! B13, U13 ECU, T28, GTi-R MAF, 370s, 3/4 bar, stock internal USDM
Nathan_Barstow 10-19-2009, 10:20 AM Like the title says, looking for a BIN for my new ECU so I can get my turbo build up and on the road.
I have a U13 Bluebird ECU with a Calum Basic Tune, and I need the basic chips tuned because I don't have a burner. Here is the BIN I need:
Stock US DE engine (9.5:1 CR)
GTi-R T28
N60 MAF
370's
3 or 4 bar.
Basically, if you know how to tune, or modify a tune just a bit, the current tune on the chips is correct, aside from having the wrong CR. It is set at 8.5:1, and I need stock 9.5:1. If it's easy enough to do that, then dump the ROM, and modify it. If not, I'll hopefully find a BIN.
Need help ASAP
Thanks for any help,
Nate
Nathan_Barstow 10-19-2009, 08:01 PM If anyone has the same setup but with a different MAF (N60, N62) , I will also take it. I can easily get a different MAF to go with a tune, not so much of internals and such.
Nathan_Barstow 10-20-2009, 10:23 AM morning bump. somebody has to have something similar
Calum 10-20-2009, 12:09 PM Who did the bin that's on it?
Nathan_Barstow 10-20-2009, 01:22 PM No idea honestly. I bought the ECU from xxTokesxx, I assumed he ordered it from you with that tune, but don't know. I do have a question for you, are the U13 and B13 fuel/timing maps much different from each other? or are they interchangable? Really need some help here, thanks Calum.
i am also willing to get a different MAF if I can find a tune to match it. (N60/62)
Nate
Calum 10-20-2009, 01:55 PM Ah, so it's got a consult adapter built in, right? Dump the bin via the consult adapter (or read the chips). Tokes had a couple different programs.
Calum 10-20-2009, 02:10 PM Post the bin that's on there btw.
Calum 10-20-2009, 03:57 PM The differences between the 9.5 and 8.5 btw are just in the timing map (my bins anyway). Just grab a 9.5 bin I've posted and cut and paste the timing maps to your bin.
Calum 10-20-2009, 03:59 PM No idea honestly. I bought the ECU from xxTokesxx, I assumed he ordered it from you with that tune, but don't know. I do have a question for you, are the U13 and B13 fuel/timing maps much different from each other? or are they interchangable? Really need some help here, thanks Calum.
i am also willing to get a different MAF if I can find a tune to match it. (N60/62)
Nate
Do you mean are the 8.5 and 9.5 maps different on my bins? If so, then just the timing maps. If you meant on U13 ECUs versus USDM SR20DE ECU, then yes, stock vs stock everything is different.
Calum 10-20-2009, 04:00 PM The oddball thing is your using a U13 core, so you want to stick with whatever bin is currently on there as your base bin.
Nathan_Barstow 10-20-2009, 04:55 PM So if I ever try to find a new .bin tune for this ECU, I will want to find a U13 bin, with everything modded around that? I'm new to this if you can't tell, just bought everything I needed because I wanted to do it right the first time!
Since it has the Serial port out of the back, will any ol' Serial-to-USB cable work? And since I can dump .bin off the board with the cable, does that mean I can flash them that way too? If so, great! And if/since I can do that, what exactly is the flashing process? Does it need removed from the car? Car off? Battery unplugged?
If I can just snag 9.5:1 .bin, then it's really as simple as copying over the timing portion? That's cake. Thanks a lot for the help Calum, you are a huge help!
One last question, since it is a JDM ECU and I should swap some of my sensors to make them read accurately, is it possible to change any settings in it to read my USDM sensors correctly?
Nate
Calum 10-20-2009, 05:56 PM Yes, you should use U13 base bins. You will not find any, not many people are using a U13 ECU as a core. Just use your current bin as a base and cut and paste maps. This is very easy to do in TunerPro, just use compare.
IIRC all the U13 sensors are the same as the B13 (except the ones no one connects), except the water temp sensor for your gauge cluster (not water temp sensor for ECU, that is the same). This includes the O2 sensor. The U12 O2 sensor is different, but the U13 is the same as the B13.
Yup, it's as simple as copying the timing maps. Post your bin and I'll do it for you (although its going to be much faster not waiting on me, lol!).
Nathan_Barstow 10-20-2009, 06:19 PM Yes! I am so excited now. I'm gonna go check out all the local electronic stores this evening to see if anyone has a Serial-to-USB cable, but I'll probably have to order one online. I'll definitely post it up ASAP. Thanks a TON Calum :biggthump
Sorry to repeat a question, but I've been reading through as much of the "Tuning" and Calum-based threads (they are all so unorganized!) and I couldn't really find a flashing instruction manual for a Basic with a Serial Port... is that uncommon?
Nate
Calum 10-20-2009, 07:30 PM The Basic+Consult is literally that- a basic rom board with a consult adapter (serial port based) on the same board. The two pieces are not connected. Changing the program is like any basic board- reburn the chips.
http://www.sr20forum.com/calumsult/164481-how-burn-rom-moates-burn1.html
Nathan_Barstow 10-20-2009, 08:05 PM Great, thanks Calum! One more thing I'd like to clarify before I attempt anything. With a Moates burner, you can only do 1 at a time. But with the Consult cable built in, can I leave them both in and it will do it together, or do I need to take 1 out and do 1 at a time as well. Just trying to be thorough here :)
Calum 10-20-2009, 09:12 PM I'm confused. Do what 1 at a time? 1 what?
Nathan_Barstow 10-20-2009, 09:18 PM lol sorry. 1 chip at a time. With the pair of chips on the board, on a Moates burner can only do 1 at a time. If I can dump/burn from the consult cable attached, how does the process differ? Do I still need to burn 1 chip at a time, or can I leave them both in and do them at the same time? (I can burn the chips through the Consult cable coming out, correct?)
Calum 10-20-2009, 10:03 PM Ah, gotcha.
-All the basic boards (basic or basic+consult, B13 or B14) use two chips. The ECU uses a 16-bit memory. Each chip is 8 bits. 8+8=16, hence why there are two chips. They are both burned with the same bin at the same time (see thread above for details). You always burn both chips.
-The consult connection is just a regular consult connection. You cannot burn chips via the consult port. the consult talks to the ECU. See 'what is consult' thread, or in your FSM all the bits that mention using the CONSULT factory handtool- that's what the adapter lets you do.
The Basic+Consult is literally that- a basic rom board with a consult adapter (serial port based) on the same board. The two pieces are not connected. Changing the program is like any basic board- reburn the chips.
So buying a basic+consult board is just like you've bought a basic board and a serial port consult adapter, they just happen to be on the same circuit board.
Make sense?
Nathan_Barstow 10-20-2009, 10:19 PM Yeah, I just misunderstood you earlier then when I asked if I could use it to burn the chips (Post #11), didn't get a very clear reply. That works though! But to clarify - you said I CAN dump a bin through that consult cable?
Ah, so it's got a consult adapter built in, right? Dump the bin via the consult adapter (or read the chips).
Thanks! Now I need to find a burner.
Does this (http://springfield.craigslist.org/pts/1427664725.html) look like the right burner? It's a Moates Burn1, but has stickers and stuff on it unlike the one you have pictured (is that normal?). Good deal, just wanted to make sure before I sent him a message.
Calum 10-20-2009, 10:45 PM Yes, you can dump the bin via the consult cable. You can also just read the chip with moates, but since you've already got the consult connection I figured that would be quicker (didn't know you didn't have a USB-serial adapter, sorry). Yea, when I designed that board ages ago laptops still had serial ports.
Yep, that moates looks fine! Mine doesn't have stickers- it's old! I don't think they make the Burn1 anymore, just the Burn2, but don't worry, the Burn1 is great. It takes all of 10 seconds to burn a chip and swapping chips is dead easy. Just don't put the chip in backwards in the moates or the ECU (make it look like the pictures in the above thread). Dead easy.
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