I have had a bit of interest in this so here is a guide on the basics :)

Parts required for a complete five stud conversion on a B13 or N14 chassis car:

USA
Front
B15 front knuckle, 5 stud hub and wheel bearing - hub assembly can be machined for 5x114.3
*Can use complete A32 complete knuckle and hub if you use a Maxima lower ball joint and machine it to fit the B13/B14 lower control arm.
Allows the use of Maxima front brakes OR any Maxima performace brake upgrade including the Z32 calipers, Z33 Brembos OR like I did, the Z33 twin piston 2006 calipers and rotors ;)

Rear
A31(1994) Maxima rear wheel bearing and 5 stud 5x114.3 hub assembly
One custom made spacer(will have exact specs soon) with 4mm of bearing preload washer due to the difference in the two different hubs.
Hub assembly needs to be machined to fit under stock rotor if required. I suggest a rear brake upgrade from GregV though and run the larger NX rear rotor diameter drilled for 5 stud(which also has the correct PCD) and NX calipers OR the Z31 rotors + Maxima caliper
The ABS hub ring if required needs the hub ring ID to be increased and then can be pressed onto Maxima hub :)
Remove rear dust shield and trim off the centre section to clear Maxima hub :)

I probably have made this sound a lot easier than it is but it is possible. Could be done for under US$160 if you source the parts including used Maxima hubs/calipers etc and could do some of the machining yourself.

The pics:
FRONT
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/iamhappy46/13112008196.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/iamhappy46/14112008206.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/iamhappy46/SSS35L/14112008203.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/iamhappy46/18112008219.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/iamhappy46/SSS35L/18112008216a.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/iamhappy46/SSS35L/18112008210.jpg
Nissan Maxima wheels will fit but also 95% of Nissan factory RWD vehicle 5 stud wheels under 7.5" rim width will fit and fill the guards nicely

REAR
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/iamhappy46/SSS35L/28112009508.jpg
You can see the hub spacer sleeve fitted to hub with stock notched washer over the top :)
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/iamhappy46/18112008215.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/iamhappy46/18112008213.jpg

Will be updating this thread again shortly :)

nice :)

is there another rear hub we could use for us rnn14 guys?

happy46, you did an awesome brakes conversion! It's more than most of us can tackle, but impressive. I'll bet you'll appreciate the bigger brakes to slow that mass (VQ35DE) sitting in your engine bay. ;-)

Could you elaborate on what needs to be machined on the ball joint if you use the Maxima knuckle? is it that the Maxima ball joint is too tall?

is there another rear hub we could use for us rnn14 guys?

what bout us that got the jellybean b14s ?? if i had five studs

is there another rear hub we could use for us rnn14 guys?

Workshop GTiR is at the panel shop(long story) but once it comes back, I will be looking at a 5 stud swap for it as well. Currently looks like X-Trail rear hub assemblies could work.

happy46, you did an awesome brakes conversion! It's more than most of us can tackle, but impressive. I'll bet you'll appreciate the bigger brakes to slow that mass (VQ35DE) sitting in your engine bay. ;-)

VQ35 weighs less than an SR20DET ;) Weight without me in it but a full tank of fuel etc is around 2300Lbs. Front rotors are 320mm(12.6"!)

Could you elaborate on what needs to be machined on the ball joint if you use the Maxima knuckle? is it that the Maxima ball joint is too tall?

Actually, the Maxima ball joint is taller which improves roll centre BUT the Maxima ball joint OD where it is pressed into the lower control arm is too large. Needs about 4mm diameter removed from the ball joint to allow it to be pressed into the arm. Dont machine the arm or it will become weaker!

what bout us that got the jellybean b14s ?? if i had five studs

Should have more info soon for the B14/N15 guys.

Could you elaborate on what needs to be machined on the ball joint if you use the Maxima knuckle? is it that the Maxima ball joint is too tall?

FORGET the maxima spindle!!!!!!!! it will give you POSITIVE static camber and you will have problems. I have done this over a year ago and several since (5 lug) DO NOT use the maxima spindle. Instead use the 89-94 maxima HUB only with 94-99 Altima spindles as these are very close to stock SE-R spindles both the max and alty share the same wheel bearingas do the later gen maximas 95-99 but not worth the headache of fitting this machining that. I just replaced my spindles today to relocate the ball joint and install new wheel bearings and grease seals.this is what i ended up with and it handles well.http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/500/thumbs/SE-R_0101.jpg (http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20082)http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/1440/thumbs/SE-R_0081.jpg (http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18956)

FORGET the maxima spindle!!!!!!!! it will give you POSITIVE static camber and you will have problems. I have done this over a year ago and several since (5 lug) DO NOT use the maxima spindle. Instead use the 89-94 maxima HUB only with 94-99 Altima spindles as these are very close to stock SE-R spindles both the max and alty share the same wheel bearingas do the later gen maximas 95-99 but not worth the headache of fitting this machining that. I just replaced my spindles today to relocate the ball joint and install new wheel bearings and grease seals.this is what i ended up with and it handles well.http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/500/thumbs/SE-R_0101.jpg (http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20082)http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/1440/thumbs/SE-R_0081.jpg (http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18956)
do you have picks or some detailed steps of the swap im very interested in doin this :biggthump

can i still fit 15" wheels over the calipers?

Thats odd...

As you can see in the pics I posted with the car at 'engineless' ride height, the car has completely neutral camber. We measured it on the workshop wheel alignment machine and it was 0.2 degrees of camber. Once the engine was in, it came up at 1.1 degrees of negative camber... which would be consistent with the LCA coming closer to parallel with the road cause the lower ball joint to be pushed further from the chassis causing negative camber

I also had the A32 Maxima hub in Autocad for all of my measurements for the engineer to sign off on the engine//gearbox/ddriveline/suspension/brakes swap and even he pointed out that my roll centre is MUCH better than normal.

do you have picks or some detailed steps of the swap im very interested in doin this :biggthump

I refuse to be one of those tools who says "look it up" but i do not know how to post a link, but if you search posts by member look at mine and you will find a detailed instruction of what to use for this purpose. My way is BOLT ON no fancy machine work just plug and play. but if you are concerned with roll center, hubs will not even come close to being right. that is why i went the way of Mr. Mike Kojima with a spherical rod end for a ball joint moving the joint down 2" as far as the rear goes....machining a spacer is the only way but call around prices vary WILDLY i got quotes from 1500-50 bucks to machine a spacer set for the rear hubs.

Why does all that hardware need to be changed?

Why cant the hub just be machined for a different pattern?

Any more details on the specs of the rear spacer?

I refuse to be one of those tools who says "look it up" but i do not know how to post a link, but if you search posts by member look at mine and you will find a detailed instruction of what to use for this purpose. My way is BOLT ON no fancy machine work just plug and play. but if you are concerned with roll center, hubs will not even come close to being right. that is why i went the way of Mr. Mike Kojima with a spherical rod end for a ball joint moving the joint down 2" as far as the rear goes....machining a spacer is the only way but call around prices vary WILDLY i got quotes from 1500-50 bucks to machine a spacer set for the rear hubs.

Out of curiousity, you used the B13/B14 12mm front strut bolts and did not need to drill the strut mounting plate at all right? I realised yesterday day why you ended up with positive camber :) I forgot to mention above you need to use the Maxima 14mm strut bolts

Why does all that hardware need to be changed?
Why cant the hub just be machined for a different pattern?

5x114.3 would take the new bolt hole extremely close to the outer radius of the existing hubs, which creates a fracture point for the steel. Welding up the existing holes and machining the back of the hubs was also not an option. Also, if you look at the 'new' replacement wheel/hub kits, they all have the stepped mounting plate like the 5 stud one in my bottom picture

Any more details on the specs of the rear spacer?

It is 1.5mm radius larger than the stock B13 spindle, not had time to get the exact specs off the machinist yet

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/iamhappy46/SSS35L/29122009531.jpg

has anyone ever tried to just redrill the stock rear hub to a 5 hole?

has anyone ever tried to just redrill the stock rear hub to a 5 hole?

I already asked that, look for the answer

I already asked that, look for the answeri know i got a head of my self

I
USA
Front
B15 front knuckle, 5 stud hub and wheel bearing - hub assembly can be :)


the B15 front knuckle fited on the N14 ball joint with no problems?
what about the fromnt ABS sensor and the tie rod and lower strut was a straight bolt on?