Here is my dyno sheet. It took a while to get it scanned.

Ignore the torque bump. I have not tuned the cams very will yet because I will be using the sr16 cams shortly.

Here are my list of power adding mods, SR20VE, Stock Cams, Fujitsuba Header, 2.5 inch cat back exhaust, Homemade cold air intake, MSD 6AL to control the redline, JWT Ecu, Fuel preasure regulator, Still has the stock cat.

EDIT: This dyno is not the original one I posted. It used to show only run number 8. All the discussion dated 2-16 and latter is a result of me changing the dyno I had hosted on my website to a more recent dyno. Sorry for the confussion.

http://members.cox.net/sfoltz10/dyno.jpg

couldnt get it to work ..:confused:

I am trying but it wont do it. ARGGHH

I couldn't link the pic to save my life. Try the "click here" and tell me if it works for everyone.

Link works fine for me! :)

NICE numbers

For some reason I only have the 100rpm printout for the second highest hp pull. Here it is just in case anyone wants to see the actual #.

RPM Power TQ
2800 64.2 120.4
2900 65.5 118.6
3000 67.7 118.5
3100 68.8 116.5
3200 70.4 115.6
3300 72.6 115.5
3400 77.0 118.9
3500 79.8 119.8
3600 81.9 119.5
3700 84.1 119.3
3800 85.9 118.7
3900 89.0 119.9
4000 92.2 121.0
4100 94.9 121.6
4200 99.0 123.8
4300 104.2 127.3
4400 110.8 132.3
4500 117.2 136.7
4600 121.7 138.9
4700 123.8 138.3
4800 124.9 136.7
4900 125.9 135.0
5000 125.4 131.8
5100 127.6 131.4
5200 131.7 133.1
5300 138.7 137.5
5400 144.8 140.8
5500 148.6 141.9
5600 151.0 141.6
5700 152.8 140.8
5800 155.5 140.8
5900 158.6 141.2
6000 161.0 141.0
6100 163.8 141.1
6200 166.3 140.9
6300 168.5 140.4
6400 169.7 139.2
6500 171.8 138.8
6600 172.6 137.4
6700 174.2 136.6
6800 175.6 135.6
6900 175.8 133.8
7000 177.4 133.1
7100 177.7 131.4
7200 178.1 129.9
7300 176.9 127.3
7400 174.7 124.0
7500 171.5 120.1
7600 170.8 118.0

98sr20ve,

Check your PM's. :D

Originally posted by silversx
98sr20ve,

Check your PM's. :D

Thanks for all your help and the lesson in internet saftey.

BTW its do to silversx that it now shows up as a picture.

Yess make sure you take the proper precautions while posting info on the web. I did see that but I thought you intended it to be that way...

BTW you should make the dyno a little darker? I cant really read it and had to edit it to see...

Originally posted by civicdragon
Yess make sure you take the proper precautions while posting info on the web. I did see that but I thought you intended it to be that way...

BTW you should make the dyno a little darker? I cant really read it and had to edit it to see...

Sorry, but I don't know how to do that. I had to take it to a friend to get it scanned. I shows up fine (but a little light) on my screen.

Its okay, i darkened it myself... looks good, But by the looks of that hump I think you got a lot of power to be extracted from your car when you tune it... Also I'm suprised you dont feel that hump during SOTP runs...

Originally posted by civicdragon
Its okay, i darkened it myself... looks good, But by the looks of that hump I think you got a lot of power to be extracted from your car when you tune it... Also I'm suprised you dont feel that hump during SOTP runs...
Read the first post and look at the horsepower #'s instead of the tq# (100rpm printout). It is barely noticable on the street

That dip kinda looks like what a dip on a Honda VTEC looks like when the X-over is set at the wrong point. Is your X-over set at about 5000 RPM? I would change it to about 4500 RPM, and I bet it would be a smoother transition. One way you can check is to dyno the car on the low cams only and then dyno it on the high cams only and set the crossover to where the lines intersect. Also, you can do your fuel and ignition tuning like that too, and you will probably get even better numbers.

David

The A:F/R curves are really interesting. What happened there? Why is .008 so rich, and how is it that .021 and .024 are so different?

#8 with with the cat in place and the sr20ve cams #21 is with no cat in place and #24 is with the Cat in place. 21 and 24 use a different O2 sensor. They are actually the same settings. Just different ways of getting the readings.

Wouldn't that mean though, that tuning with a test pipe is better? You get real O2 content data instead of what the cat scrubs? I find it most interesting that the shape of the A:F/R curve is so different on #8. Is the cat actually getting more efficient as the pull proceeds?

I know, lotsastupidquestions...

Yes, # 8 has the cat in place and is using a tailpipe sniffer. It is not the proper way to tune the car. # 21 had the testpipe and a O2 bung type sensor (the right way) and # 24 was just a final check after we put the cat back on using a tailpipe sniffer again. #8 is also what JWT had tuned into the ecu with no changes. #21+24 were after my tuning.