I have done much searching on the forums and yes... I have had a few drinks so keep that in mind and my mind will try not to wander to far off topic and get all information down.

1. My car is a 1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R with an sr20de 10:1 comp.
Stock cams,
heavy clutch,
lightened flywheel,
2.5 mand. exhaust,
new starter,
new spark plugs,
new wires

for the problem it is anywhere from -20 to low low 30's lately here in my home town and the car has problems daily with starting. It will crank and crank and crank and spudder and then crank than kick up a bit and start up... If I don't get on the throttle slightly it will not stay running. I have recently fixed an oil leak due to a crap tacular timing chain tensioner and gasket. Put a new starter in because the old of would kick out and cause the hard cold start to become impossible. I have checked the volts to the fuel injectors all similar to each. Each injector seems to be doing there job considering that when i pull the electrical clip the idle drops significantly. I just replaced the gas tank as well because of rusting on the old one made it leak.

As I said the drunkenness is taking over and that is all I can think of at this very moment... Further investigation is obviously needed.

Please help!

MutMatt

oh and btw... Courtesy nissan.... Those guys are AMAZING!!! i bought the new tensioner and the gasket and apparently the christmas spirit was with someone because I received a FREE grounding kit with the package!!! It was like a second christmas!!!

What plugs are you using? Gap and setup?

Once you get the car running is everything ok?

Probably the IACV air regulator located under the manifold. If that is not opening when cold then you can't start the car without pushing down the gas pedal and it won't idle until it warms up some. The air regulator is what gives the fast idle when the car is cold, basically just lets more air into the manifold. The normal idle air controller ( which controls idle speed ) cannot let enough air into the motor to get a cold idle.

You are looking for a valve on the bottom of the manifold with 2 hoses and an electrical connector.

What plugs are you using? Gap and setup?

Stock plugs.


And how would i check the iacv

You would have to remove it. When it is cold you should be able to blow through it and probably see through it. There is a electric heater in it that will close it. The 2 that have failed on me have failed closed, therefore the cold start issues. It needs to be open for the fast idle on a cold motor.

Or it could also be your coolant temp sensor. It's right next to the iacv. try replacing it with an oem one. aftermarket ones suck.

part number?

Or it could also be your coolant temp sensor. It's right next to the iacv. try replacing it with an oem one. aftermarket ones suck.

Yes, bad ECU temp sensor could cause the problem.
When mine went bad, it was telling the ECU nearly 300 F on a cold start.
ECU temp sensor for lowport=22630-51E02, not sure of the highport part#.
Note - the 2 wire connector is the one you want, not the single wire gauge sender.
You could test the sensor per the FSM.
Disconnect plug and measure resistance between the terminals.
Should be:
9.2k Ohms @ 14 F
2.5 kOhms @ 68 F
0.8 kOhms @ 122 F
0.2 kOhms @ 194 F

Yes, bad ECU temp sensor could cause the problem.
When mine went bad, it was telling the ECU nearly 300 F on a cold start.
ECU temp sensor for lowport=22630-51E02, not sure of the highport part#.
Note - the 2 wire connector is the one you want, not the single wire gauge sender.
You could test the sensor per the FSM.
Disconnect plug and measure resistance between the terminals.
Should be:
9.2k Ohms @ 14 F
2.5 kOhms @ 68 F
0.8 kOhms @ 122 F
0.2 kOhms @ 194 F

Perfect that is really the post that I was looking for! I couldn't find the resistance for the temp sensor. I do have a lowport so life is good on the part number :) thank you very much sir... interesting you only went down to 14 F *** I live in duluth and having negative double digits in this time of year is not unheard of

ok so i really have no idea abouot multimeters but i tested it and it read 3.03 at 20k anyone want to help me out and tell me what that means... i drove the car to probably almost full running temp about 2 or 3 hours back and it is about 30... 21 deg with wind chill. Should I wait until the morning and get a true cold reading?

3.03 kohms was the reading

dropped to 5.something something now. So that points to a ok for the tstat

I think i'm going to try cleaning my iacv... any advice. I don't have ac so it should be too bad

i have to clean mine out as well what side of the motor is it on on a highport...... pully side right? right by my coolant temp sensor

on a high port i'm not sure i did a search and there are quite a few write-ups on it on this forum but i'm at school and don't have my favorites saved

so it is about 30 degrees out this morning and the car started up on the first crank and was stumbling when i was holing the gas up a bit. I let it drop down to idle ish and then it killed... now it is cranking but doesn't even pop the rpms up at all

Sooooo.... fuel pump fuse causes the car to not start... to much pressure? Full explination, if the fuse is in the car won't start. If i pull the fuse the car starts and runs as long as I keep the rpms up

do b13's have an inertia switch? looks to be a negative on that one from my searching

Sooooo.... fuel pump fuse causes the car to not start... to much pressure? Full explination, if the fuse is in the car won't start. If i pull the fuse the car starts and runs as long as I keep the rpms up

could use some help on this! Please

now it is starting but miss firing so i'm thinking the timing is off and popping a bit with a quick pop on the gas under no load... timing?