Well i was driving the turtle today and cruised it today and it ran fine. then parked it. like about 6 hours later i turn it on and let it warm up when all of a sudden the engine started going retarded and had a horrible ass idle. were talking mad ass hot cam status. where u see the needle go up and down :P
so i give it a little gas and it stays in 1.5k rpm. cause i was like wtf.. and when i give it gas to raise the rpm the car hesitates and feels like it stutters BIG TIME.. there is definitely GAS in the gas tank as i filled it with 91 this same morning. the exaust smells like mad gas sorta. definitely its not sweet smelling there is NO milkyness or water on the oil. oil level is topped off with brand new oil. so no blown HG. (i hope) also it throws alot of smoke. *** say grayish black. bu smells like unburnt gas. i checked for spark and there is spark on all 4 wires. i even bought NEW NGK sparks and blue NGK wires (to be on the safe side) also on the MSN box inside the hood it bring up something about the CYL 4... i bought the car with some electronics already installed. on it and truth be todl the car's ran fine up to today. il post up some vids and pics of the info regarding the electronics i thinkg COULD be the culprits . so hopefully i can get some feedback.

The car wont start or stay on unless i give i press the pedal down a bit. in which case it does start but starts smoking and bad idling..


these are the two videos i got for reference. there is also this computer thiing inside the car. that was working fine and apparently stopped working now that i noticed. it used to tell me what exact RPM i was in exactly example 2,374rpm and some of the other functions were telling me how much im stepping on the throttle and record what the highest RPM was when i was driving. it would show a line graph of the throtle. and in two digital gauges the boost and another thing i forgot. il try to get a picture of it soon. BUT it wont turn on and i have a feeling this may be the culprit.. i just don't know exactly what to do. but any who check out the vids and feel free to give a helping hand if possible :)

This computer stoped turning on for some reason....
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a83/superduner/0124001711.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a83/superduner/th_0124001705.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a83/superduner/?action=view&current=0124001705.flv)

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a83/superduner/th_0124001606.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a83/superduner/?action=view&current=0124001606.flv)

Have you pulled the fuel rail to check for a busted O ring?

Have you pulled the fuel rail to check for a busted O ring?

hmm never thought abou tthat. i did think about removing the fuel rail and seeing if the injectors were ALL firing. will check that soon as i get a chance.

If the AFC isn't working the computer will think there is no maf. Also your injector corrections will be off so the car will not be set up for the larger injectors. You need to check your wiring on the Super AFC. Check the grounds and check the power to see if they are still working.

I would do a compression check. I had a honda with a turbo that did the same things in high school and it ended up that there was a crack in the ringlands on 2 pistons. I don't know if that could be ur problem but I would check.

i will not go first with the compression check would double check the wiring of the SAFC, also check the fuel rail beleive me those o-rings are a pain in the @$$ when are broken. And in the video of the MSD 8969 i saw that you have the VVL turning on at 5kRPM and off at 5KRPM so it is turning on and off at the same time i don't get it??? or it didn't even is turning on?? Good Luck!

start pluuing plug wires when the car is running if the idle changes then u no that cylinder is fireing if the idle dont change then u no u have a dead cylinder, witch would prob mean a bad injector

I'm thinkin its something to do with the safc not coming on. I mean your fuel controller shuts off and all of a sudden your car doesn't run right...?

yeah man the car was running fine this this computer went out i suppose. and it does get hooked to the ECU so i figure it has to be this blue box. about the MSD vvl kicking in and shutting off at the same time. i suppose u have a good point. *** have to tune that as well. what RPM should it be shutting off at ?

does anyone know on the MSD box what it stalking about ? on at 50 and off at 50 and cyl 4? what about cyl 4 ?

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAH


seriously are you trolling?

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAH


seriously are you trolling?

trolling :/ ? sorry never heard that term before . meaning ?

i have the vvl set to 5,200 on and 7,500 off..check your injectors to see if there sqirting equily and check the voltage.

i have the vvl set to 5,200 on and 7,500 offWhy do you want the cams deactivating at 7,500? Just set the off RPM higher than you'll ever get to, like 12k, and you'll be fine.

C

i have the vvl set to 5,200 on and 7,500 off..check your injectors to see if there sqirting equily and check the voltage.

wow :eek2:

yeah i never tryed it..ill try it the highest rpm i have been to was 9,000 and i was on 4th that was all i needed when i was racing a a 97 DC type r turbo/nitrous funny thing is i took him by a trailer.lol..i have set it to 10,000 now..i dont realy go past 8,500 though..

:melonscratcher: :rolleyes:

yeah man the car was running fine this this computer went out i suppose. and it does get hooked to the ECU so i figure it has to be this blue box. about the MSD vvl kicking in and shutting off at the same time. i suppose u have a good point. *** have to tune that as well. what RPM should it be shutting off at ?

does anyone know on the MSD box what it stalking about ? on at 50 and off at 50 and cyl 4? what about cyl 4 ?

Set it about 5.0 ON and 8.4 OFF if you dont have racing springs and retainers or high cams all the other setup is fine... But i beleive the problem is the SAFC

8.4 OFFAgain, why? I'd rather not have my cams switching if one day I miss a shift. Set the off RPM higher than you'll ever, EVER get to.

C

Again, why? I'd rather not have my cams switching if one day I miss a shift. Set the off RPM higher than you'll ever, EVER get to.

C

well thats your opinion but tell that to my friend who miss shifted and the engine revved up to hell and guess what?? broken spring, then broken valve, then F*ked up head and piston... And finally new engine!

Thanks!

I never said overreving the engine is a good thing, but do you want to add the stress and strain of switching lobes into the mix? Yours are set to turn off at 8400 rpm. I assume your rev limiter is below that. If you happen to miss a shift and spin the engine to 9,000 rpm, you're not going to damage anything, but in my opinion, you don't want to have the cams dropping out at 8,400 and then back ON when the rpms drop down to 8,400 on the way back down from 9,000.

C