I am swapping out all my ball-joints and tie-rods (inner and outer) for Moog parts. Can someone with the same parts on a B13 please take a measurement of how much thread is showing on the inner tie-rod after the lock nut?

someone chime in

For the sake of lining up your new ones after you put them on? I'm doing the exact same job right now on my 200.

For the sake of lining up your new ones after you put them on? I'm doing the exact same job right now on my 200.

exactly

My best advice is what I've done and am doing. Once I backed the jam nut away from the OE tie rod I moved it back against it by hand then counted two turns of the jam nut away from the tie rod. I picked/marked a spot on the jam nut as a reference. An alignment is going to have to be done anyway. Sorry I don't have a measured number for you. Camber is what I'm fighting this weekend after I get the left transverse link put back on. I hope this helps you some. Good luck.

Thing is I am replacing the inner tie rod too so I don't have a reference to go by

I see. I won't be much help to you then. I should have done my inners while I am at it but didn't.

It's all good bro :)

What I always do is count the number of turns it takes removing the outer tie rod . That will get you close to where it was originaly then take it to get it aligned ! :biggthump

What I always do is count the number of turns it takes removing the outer tie rod . That will get you close to where it was originaly then take it to get it aligned ! :biggthump

That won't work for me since I'm replacing the inner and outer tie rods and they are not the same size as the oem parts but I do thank you though :D

Update: I came up with 1.1" of thread and 13.5 from the center of the tie rod outer to the end of the inner tie rod. I used the stock parts with a known distance and assembled the Moog parts to match. I still have to go get an alignment but this should be pretty darn close. Also a couple other notes dealing with this: Go rent the inner tie rod tool from Kragen, it's free and will definitely make this a lot easier. Be sure to hold the steering rack still, do not let it rotate or you will be in a world of hurt. The clip that comes with the Moog inner tie rod is a pos so try to save the stock one as it will work better since it's already staked for the rack. I ordered the ES tie rod boots from www.suspension.com (part# 9.13101.R) and they fit the Moog outer tie rods perfectly. I highly recommend ordering from this guy, he is very knowledgeable, will take the time to make sure you get the right part, and ships very quickly. Lastly, onto the tie rod bellows (boots). These were a MAJOR PITA for me since they need to be stretched over the steering rack ends. The passenger side is easiest if you pull it on and let it pucker or fold under past where it goes then SLOWLY pull it back out. Hopefully it will unfold and stay in place for ya. The drivers side was easiest with a flat head screwdriver from underneath pulling the boot on by the firewall towards the top, another pair of hands on top pulling it over the top then just pull the rest of it into place. And that's all there is to it :D

Why not pick up a set of toe plates from Longacre or make your own?

This way you can properly reset your toe after you replace your tie rods. Counting exposed threads may get you into the ball park but you will not likely know it for sure.

If you change struts later on and preload them before tightening the bolts, total toe will move toward toe in and need to be checked and likely reset.

Toe plates are inexpensive and will pay for themselves many times over. If money is tight, go in on a purchase with a couple friends or do the homemade thing. Check the web for diy toe plates.

You will not regret going this way.

Phil

I'm just gonna take it in and have it done for me. I know, I know :D