Well i am putting my car on another serious diet.So when i finish building my motor all it would really need to be a full blown drag car is a cage and the lights removed. But a cage is weight so we wont do that till it is needed. The interior is just a seat and a dash so i am now removing the sheet metal from inside.I have a spare set of doors does anyone know the best way to remove the side impact guards?????Also where to find a fiber hood and lexan windows???? THANKS


ERIK

you may also want to cut out the spare tire well and weld a flat piece of sheet metal in there

erik i can get you light weight carbon hoods that need to be hood pinned with four pins but they are very light. i can also get front fenders and doors and trunk lids for the b13 and b14. all need to be pinned on so not much security but much lighter. i am working on some latches. let me know if you're interested.

i also have a polycarbonate window kit. PC is much safer than lexan. it is .125 regulation thickness.

Originally posted by bigtom
i also have a polycarbonate window kit. PC is much safer than lexan. it is .125 regulation thickness.

Can you explain?:confused:

What does the window kit go for. What windows is it???
Thanks
ERIK

Going to the gym does wonders too! ;)

Ben

EDITED EDITED EDITED!!!!! YOU KNOW YOUR THE REASON SERIOUS THREADS HAVE TO TURN TO SHIT. GO BACK TO YOUR TURBO FORUM AND TALK ALL ABOUT YOUR FAKE HORSEPOWER.

Moved AGAIN!!!

Wieght reduction has nothing to do with all motor!

if you're driving it as a street car, I'd highly suggest against removing door/side protection..............gotta think safety.....

Originally posted by ALLMOTORSENTRA
EDITED EDITED EDITED!!!!! YOU KNOW YOUR THE REASON SERIOUS THREADS HAVE TO TURN TO SHIT. GO BACK TO YOUR TURBO FORUM AND TALK ALL ABOUT YOUR FAKE HORSEPOWER.

Reducing the driver's weight is just as valid a way to go quicker as reducing the weight of the car is. Ever see a really fat F1/CART/NASCAR/IndyCar driver? Didn't think so.

And believe me when I tell you that a turbocharged car's horsepower is VERY real, Erik.

ALLMOTOR,

My Classic is also on a SE-Rious diet. This will be my official Drag car as well. But for now its a "get-to-work"/drag car. What engine components have you removed? Do you still have the stock radiator?

Originally posted by SERprise In WV
Reducing the driver's weight is just as valid a way to go quicker as reducing the weight of the car is. Ever see a really fat F1/CART/NASCAR/IndyCar driver? Didn't think so.

And believe me when I tell you that a turbocharged car's horsepower is VERY real, Erik. YEA WHATEVER ,HOW FRIGGEN SKINNY DO YOU WANT ME TO BE???

Originally posted by ALLMOTORSENTRA
YEA WHATEVER ,HOW FRIGGEN SKINNY DO YOU WANT ME TO BE???

If you're getting pissed at a joke about weight, you must have some issues. It was a friggin' joke.... take it as such! :rolleyes:

Ben

GEEZ. What a spaz. I knew it was coming before I read the thread, you should have known someone would say that. I don't know if you just had a rough day or what, but sometimes it is best not to say anything at all when you are angry.

ANGRY WHO SAID ANYTHING ABOUT BEING ANGRY IM NOT ANGRY I DONT GET ANGRY NO ANGER HERE HEEE HEEE HEEE HEEE I NOT MAD. Its bad enough this section(all motor) got started because of me having my posts moved now they keep moving then out of here go figure.peace

can u tell me about the windows and the body parts how much do they weight , costs . for a 91 sentra , are u a store ..

Originally posted by bigtom
i also have a polycarbonate window kit. PC is much safer than lexan. it is .125 regulation thickness.

Maybe you meant to say "Plexi" (very dangerous plus tends to permanently fog up) instead of "Lexan" or something:

Lexan is a trade name for polycarbonate - they're the same thing.

From efunda Engineering Fundamentals:
Polycarbonate, also known as PC, has been mass-produced since 1958.
- It is a thermoplastic polycondensate.
- Applications: Used to make optical lenses, windows, medical items, CD's, and power tool housings. Also used in truck cabs.
- General properties: It has excellent strength and toughness. It possesses good dimensional stability, dielectric strength, flame retardancy, and impact resistance (highest among transparent rigid materials). It is susceptible to stress cracking with aromatic solvents, and is difficult to machine.
- Trade Name: Lexan, Makrolon.


ALLMOTOR:

If you're willing to run a four hood pin setup, you could use an air chisel to gut your hood - pretty lightweight and costs nothing - same for your trunk lid (the air chisel is also the solution to your door bars). We replaced the entire trunk floor on one of our 510 rally cars with sheet alum. If you run a cage with door bars, you really don't need the OEM pieces.

Have you removed the big steel bumpers?

If you're interested in cage design, CARS (Canadian Assoc. of Rallysport) has some of the most stringent requirements in North America. The cage design rules are based on international FIA rules. Complete with diagrams/material specs etc. Check out:
http://www.carsrally.ca/2002/documents/e2002rulebook.pdf

Robin

Anybody have pics of those trunks with aluminum flat pieces?

Originally posted by FastNX
you may also want to cut out the spare tire well and weld a flat piece of sheet metal in there

I've also been thinking about that for the longest time. Has anybody actually ever done it? How expensive would it cost to get this done...and where could I go to do it?

Also how much weight can be saved by taking out the fuel tank and putting in a fuel cell? ...And how much does it cost and has anyone done it?