I'm adding an oil cooler and remote oil filter to my racecar. I think I'm going to take the easy way out and mount the cooler in front of the rad. As far as getting the oil into the lines and back into the block I have two options: Buy the Nissan Motorsports adaptor or the Custom Steel oil block.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm314/fastnx_photo/oilblocks.jpg?t=1266896350

Nissan Motorsports adaptor

Pros:
Less expensive
May be simpler plumbing since the oil lines will start and end in a convenient location

Cons:
Still have to buy fittings to convert from the oil adaptor thread to -10AN
Probably fairly restricted oil flow since it has to go through a few twists and turns before it even gets to the oil lines

Custom Steel oil block

Pros: Probably simpler oil flow with less restriction (but is this something that I will ever notice?!?!?)
Comes with -10AN fittings which eliminates the amount of things I have to buy

Cons:
Costs $200 :eek2:

What do I do with the line that exits towards the driver's side? I have to turn it 180 degrees before it is back near the passenger side strut tower. Or should I run it around the driver's side of the engine bay then in front of the rad. That's going to be a lot of -10AN tubing.

Any thoughts? Who has used the CS oil block and how did you do it?

I have the CS block and it has worked great for me. I just started my 4th full season of wheel to wheel racing and I'm on the same JDM motor that makes 160 WHP with cams, ecu, header, and intake.

I routed both oil lines in front of the firewall and around through where the battery used to be. The oil line that exits "up" is the oil coming from the engine. I routed it directly to a remote oil filter mounted on the firewall. I have an oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator and a thermostat mounted near the LF headlight. Shoot me an email and I'll send you a picture or two.

I have the CS block and it has worked great for me. I just started my 4th full season of wheel to wheel racing and I'm on the same JDM motor that makes 160 WHP with cams, ecu, header, and intake.


Good to hear. I'm running a stock engine with intake, header exhaust, flywheel, but I just paid a small fortune to have it rebuilt so I'm really hoping it lasts.

I sent you an email

I would ditch those 90* elbows for something like this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM4034/

For less oil flow restriction. The other ones will cause a bit of an oil pressure drop. See if P@ will discount the price if you supply your own fittings.

I'm pretty sure that I used straight fittings coming out of the adapter block. The only 90 deg fitting I had was right at the oil filter which was mounted on the firewall.

I'm amazed that I haven't had a single leak or problem. Think about what ports you want on it in addition to the in/out ports. I had him tap for the stock oil pressure sender and for a 1/8 NPT pressure gauge fitting. I mounted the sender above the fender and attached a -4 line to it rather than have the sender hanging off the adapter block.

I routed both oil lines in front of the firewall and around through where the battery used to be. The oil line that exits "up" is the oil coming from the engine. I routed it directly to a remote oil filter mounted on the firewall. I have an oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator and a thermostat mounted near the LF headlight. Shoot me an email and I'll send you a picture or two.

I would like to have a hybrid of your setup and the following:

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/696/CSINST002.jpg

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/696/CSINST003.jpg

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/696/CSINST008.jpg

The only thing is the above pictures show that the powersteering has been eliminated, so I am not sure if the braided lines will clear the stock powersteering pump when used with a 45 degree exit from the oil block.

Here is a picture inspired by Rockwood on what my setup might look like:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm314/fastnx_photo/oillinerouting.jpg?t=1266986433

Same exit and oil filter location as the above pictures, but 30 degree fittings in and out of the cooler, then back above the transmission and under the intake manifold. This would have two 30 degree fittings and one 45 degree fitting. I might need an extra 45 degree to get the return line to clear the starter.

why not use this and get some lines and a cooler. done http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360227547028&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_956

I used a longer hose run to incorporate a thermostat behind the LF headlight. I just happen to like a 'stat because in a normal season we run in temperatures ranging from 20F-100F.

I like the spin-on adapters but I don't know if there would be room on the SR engine. I used one on my Talon for a long time with great success. The nice thing about the CS block is that the clunky oil filter mounting thingy is removed and it actually makes more room. One thing you do need to be careful about with the CS block is that you need to leave enough slack in the hose so that you can reach your starter if it needs to be changed.

why not use this and get some lines and a cooler. done http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...T#ht_500wt_956

I doubt it would fit since it would be competing with the powersteering lines and reservoir for room although I do like the simplicity.

I used a longer hose run to incorporate a thermostat behind the LF headlight. I just happen to like a 'stat because in a normal season we run in temperatures ranging from 20F-100F

I'm not going to run a 'stat, I think I'll just tape the cooler if it's real cold. I think the coldest race conditions for me would be about 55F

I doubt it would fit since it would be competing with the powersteering lines and reservoir for room although I do like the simplicity

Find a JDM motor oil filter housing. On the JDM motor I had, the oil filter housing pointed the filter down instead of up and there was plenty of room for the adapter installation.

The JDM motor that I bought for my B13 had the exact same oil filter housing as the USDM.

FYI!

The JDM motor that I bought for my B13 had the exact same oil filter housing as the USDM.

FYI!

Perhaps that's the difference. I have a B14 and the RR motor I got was pointed down, accessed from the bottom.