GTiR vac and idle issues [Archive] - SR20 Forum

: GTiR vac and idle issues


trbob13
02-27-2010, 10:22 PM
i have been doing research on the GTiR motors and from what i have seen, they have a habit of having low vacuum pressure. mine bounces between 12-14lbs. of vac. i also have an idle issue, it bounces around like i have aftermarket cams but i dont lol. there are some idle screws it looks like that are on each throttle body. i messed with them, but nothing happened. i was thinking that it might have something to do with the tune, which i know hasnt been done in a while from JWT. does anyone else have these issues or had them? im semi new to the GTiR thing. ive had a few highports and a low port, but not this lol.

dxpxe
02-28-2010, 06:01 PM
sorry to say but now you have to balance out each throttle body back to stock.

dont know how hards it going to be now or if its ecen going to matter. You have to make sure you have no vacuum leaks. also check to see if all your air intake sensors are plugged in, did you do the few wire harness plug swaps to get everything plugged in?

lots of times the hoses above the intake get hard and dried out from being between a hot engine and intercooler for years so those make need to be changed but make sure you dont kink the hoses when you cut and install replacements.

like i said idk how bad you messed things up by touching those throttle body adjustment screws. The idle adjustmeant is just under the entrance of the intake manifold. Bring a screw driver over as if u were going to throw it in the intake but just underneith that you will feel/see the recessed phillips screw.

trbob13
02-28-2010, 09:11 PM
sorry to say but now you have to balance out each throttle body back to stock.

dont know how hards it going to be now or if its ecen going to matter. You have to make sure you have no vacuum leaks. also check to see if all your air intake sensors are plugged in, did you do the few wire harness plug swaps to get everything plugged in?

lots of times the hoses above the intake get hard and dried out from being between a hot engine and intercooler for years so those make need to be changed but make sure you dont kink the hoses when you cut and install replacements.

like i said idk how bad you messed things up by touching those throttle body adjustment screws. The idle adjustmeant is just under the entrance of the intake manifold. Bring a screw driver over as if u were going to throw it in the intake but just underneith that you will feel/see the recessed phillips screw.

one of the first things i replaced was those little hoses because like you said, they were dry rotted. i made sure they wernt kinked. i returned the screws on the itb's to the original position from when i started. they were screwed in so they were all the way down. the car was swapped before i bought it. i saw the little idle adjust screw but since the idle is at the right rpm, i didnt mess with it. i have a repair manual for the GTiR that i will have to look over. thanks for your help, ill keep you updated if it gets better.

trbob13
02-28-2010, 09:13 PM
o yea, i forgot to add. the guy that did the swap has the boost gauge hooked up to one of the throttle bodies where they are supposed to capped off. im assuming that is the incorrect position. should i move it to a nipple on the side of the intake plenum?

dxpxe
02-28-2010, 09:38 PM
um.... im not following where your talking about, gonna need a picture. i have my boost guage line T-ed off between my vacuum line for my recirc valve.

you didnt mention the wiring probebly becuase the engine was already swapped. There should be 2 sensors under the same area as where the idle screw is. i beleive a purple and brown connection, they are commonly missed and sometimes the purple one is ignored becuase thats the plug that you harvest off the stock gtir harness.

trbob13
03-01-2010, 12:00 AM
ill take some pics of tomorrow and if you could post some pics possibly so i have a reference maybe?

Sr20Gtir
03-01-2010, 12:45 PM
Right now your only getting a vacum boost reading from one cylinder i have my boost gauge tee'd off with the FPR and its works perfectly. You may want to recheck those screws again they are not for idle they are for vacum adjustment and the guy before you may have messed with them before you did. just get your hands on an fsm and re adjust them you need to have a large vacum gauge so you can do so and just to let you know mine was a pita.

trbob13
03-01-2010, 02:38 PM
heres the spot the boost gauge is hooked up to
http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/trbob13/029.jpg
i didnt see the brown or purple plug that you were talking about
http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/trbob13/030.jpg
i was thinking of putting a tee in the nipple coming out close to the fpr
http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/trbob13/031.jpg
heres a video of the car idleing. it idles kinda rough
http://s398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/trbob13/?action=view&current=036.flv
heres a video of how the boost gauge flutters around
http://s398.photobucket.com/albums/pp66/trbob13/?action=view&current=037.flv

Sr20Gtir
03-01-2010, 07:34 PM
I just posted that i run mine off my boost off my fpr line. i also noticed that your bov isnt recirculated if it is sitting open at idle it will make the car idle shitty. start the car and put your hand over the bov outlet. if the idle improves you need to recirculate it back into the intake if not then it may not be sitting open.

trbob13
03-02-2010, 01:04 AM
i already checked the bov, thats all clear. i will be moveing the boost gauge line tomorrow, didnt have a whole lot of time today. i looked for the sensors that you were talking about under the idle screw but i didnt see it. i will look more tomorrow also:biggthump

dxpxe
03-02-2010, 08:23 AM
the plugs i was talking about will be a part of the sensor where the idle adjustment screw is just farther back. if your under the car look way up passed the starter and you will see the area. i will see if i can get some pictures by the end of the week, if you want just pm your e-mail or phone number and i will take them with my camera phone.

deff move that boost guage, if the guy did that im bettin was a hack i and would start from scratch with everything having to do with the idle including those butterfly screws.

also you will have around 12 pounds of vac at like 1100 rpm on a gti-r engine just for a reference. i only see 20 pounds when my car is 100% warm and ive been sitting for a while to let the idle kick way down to 900 which is the lowest my car goes.

trbob13
03-05-2010, 12:32 AM
ok, a little update. i finally had enough time to do a little to it today. i moved the boost gauge line to the line that the fpr is on and it works great now. i let the car warm up completely for like 10 minutes and it still wouldnt go over 13lbs. of vacuum so im gonna boost leak test it again and see if i missed anytihng the first time.