Has anyone used these coil-overs? They say that aggressive rates and valving are chosen and are for race use only. I'm just curious if they were worth the money. One of the main reasons I'm interested in them is you can adjust your ride height and spring pre-load separately, unlike the tein. I would be putting these on a b13 chassis.

I doubt they are anything special. No published rates on their site either. The ability to set spring preload is really useless.

on all there other coilovers they post spring rates, so im just guessing that by them not posting them the spring rate for these is its all by request, unless you own a Ferrari F360.

anyone else have any input on these coilovers?

hi!

i run the Ksport GT Pros on my PTE ford probe. they have been AWESOME. you have to specify the rates you want; i run 16k/13k rates on my probe; no front swaybar. big 25 mm rear bar. the Ksport GT Pros have held up great; i've had them 2-1/2 yrs; no problems with them at all; probably run 25 race weekends so far. when i ordered mine, it took 4 weeks; they had to valve the shocks for the spring rates. oh, and i love that i can adjust the height and spring preload separately.

good luck

hi!

oh, and i love that i can adjust the height and spring preload separately.

good luck

Todd, what benefit do you see from the spring preload?

Todd, what benefit do you see from the spring preload?

hi blair.

well, here is what i see as an advantage; the shock body is fully threaded, and the bottom 'foot' of the strut can be threaded up and down to set the height. other types of coilovers, you can only move the spring perch up and down; if you want to lower the car, you have to leave the springs loose; if you want it raised, you have to make the springs precompressed. and it affects the suspension travel, especially when lowering. if you can move the foot mount at the bottom of the shock up and down, it makes height adjustments so nice and easy.

hi blair.

well, here is what i see as an advantage; the shock body is fully threaded, and the bottom 'foot' of the strut can be threaded up and down to set the height. other types of coilovers, you can only move the spring perch up and down; if you want to lower the car, you have to leave the springs loose; if you want it raised, you have to make the springs precompressed. and it affects the suspension travel, especially when lowering. if you can move the foot mount at the bottom of the shock up and down, it makes height adjustments so nice and easy.

Yep, if your springs are hanging loose, with the valving that comes from controlling the rates we're rocking on these cars (especially out back), you're probably not using that droop travel and lifting a tire somewhere since the unsprung weight of the suspension probably isn't going to be enough to get it to return fast enough. If you've got some preload, you can get the wheel to return quickly for the shock's entire travel.

Do you really need a lot of preload on a road race car? Not really, and you shouldn't have much more than an inch of preload, but it's nice to not have to give it up for the sake of ride height/corner weighting.

Yep, if your springs are hanging loose, with the valving that comes from controlling the rates we're rocking on these cars (especially out back), you're probably not using that droop travel and lifting a tire somewhere since the unsprung weight of the suspension probably isn't going to be enough to get it to return fast enough. If you've got some preload, you can get the wheel to return quickly for the shock's entire travel.

Do you really need a lot of preload on a road race car? Not really, and you shouldn't have much more than an inch of preload, but it's nice to not have to give it up for the sake of ride height/corner weighting.

I Don't see the importance of it. If it's unloaded it doesn't have any weight on it anyway. Besides, I'd like to have enough rate on the front that it doesn't lean over in the first place. ;)

The other downside to it on our cars is the lack of clearance. I know some of the Konis have had to have the soft setting of the Progress bars trimmed off to clear.

you loose supention travel when ajusting your ridehight with the spring preload.but when you do it seperatly, you can set your ride height and keep your travel and preload the same.

you loose supention travel when ajusting your ridehight with the spring preload.but when you do it seperatly, you can set your ride height and keep your travel and preload the same.

I'm not new to this concept ;) However,there are other factors involved. I'm still not convinced these really solve any problems. I'm especially skeptical since I've never seen a higher end set up that does this.

im pretty sure jic-magic uses this method, and there suspension is top notch.

All the best dampers provide for adjusting shock length separately from preload. Add Ohlins and Tein Monoflex to that list.

im pretty sure jic-magic uses this method, and there suspension is top notch.

Yup they do. It's best to keep them as two different adjustments.

I Don't see the importance of it. If it's unloaded it doesn't have any weight on it anyway. Besides, I'd like to have enough rate on the front that it doesn't lean over in the first place. ;)

It's only completely unloaded because the suspension isn't allowed to travel down far enough. If the spring has enough tension in it for that last bit of travel to push the tire down to the ground, it still has load. Tires on the ground always offer some level of grip. There's a reason why every OEM coil setup has preload.

On our G20, we're rocking 700in-lb rates up front, and it will still lift the inside rear under hard braking while turning in.

The other downside to it on our cars is the lack of clearance. I know some of the Konis have had to have the soft setting of the Progress bars trimmed off to clear.

I don't have a setup like this, so correct if I'm wrong, but unless you're really slamming it, the shock body shouldn't protrude out of the bottom of the strut, otherwise it'd hit the axle anyway. Out back, there should be plent of clearance.

All the best dampers provide for adjusting shock length separately from preload. Add Ohlins and Tein Monoflex to that list.

Interesting. The Motons on my buddy's Evo doesn't have them though.


It's only completely unloaded because the suspension isn't allowed to travel down far enough.
On our G20, we're rocking 700in-lb rates up front, and it will still lift the inside rear under hard braking while turning in.

I don't have a setup like this, so correct if I'm wrong, but unless you're really slamming it, the shock body shouldn't protrude out of the bottom of the strut, otherwise it'd hit the axle anyway. Out back, there should be plent of clearance.


Or you've got a really big rear bar.

I don't on mine either. On the rear my 8611 setup has plenty of room, but I have seen several that don't. I'll hunt around when I have some more time and see if I can find pics.

Interesting info here though.

Are there ANY FWD dampers with adjustable body length up front? Did Penske provide that for Nadji?

Well, it looks like Hondas get the good stuff (at least Tein). Obviously, FWD isn't a huge impediment to getting kick-azz dampers.

ummmm, as far as i know, all the ksports are like that. (all b13's are FWD)

Or you've got a really big rear bar.

I don't on mine either. On the rear my 8611 setup has plenty of room, but I have seen several that don't. I'll hunt around when I have some more time and see if I can find pics.

Interesting info here though.

Got a decent bar (7/8"), but the preload would help even more there as well, since the spring would actually be fighting the bar to keep the inside on the ground. Either way, preload and ride height are optimal if seperate adjustments.

Blair, does your NX lift the inside rear wheel? Also, how much droop do you guys have on your B13 race cars?