car idles perfect. with that out of the way....firstly, when i start my car in morning it starts but at a low rpm an then it buids up to the high idle that is where it suppose to be. that's problem# one.

then when driving and i attempt to drive fast, the car accelerates, BUT it does so in a slow manner, much like this....rpm wil start to rise then it will kinda wait, then it will rise then wait an it will continue until i release the accelerator. much like if it is "pausing" while rising...

can u guys help me figure out what causing my problems??

these are stuf *** was changed recently:
maf
plugs
oil
injectors was cleaned a while back
fuel filter
tranismission oil
and i also tried another ecu.....
NOW WHEN I START THE CAR IT FUMBLES BEFORE IT REACHES 1100RPM (COLDSTART), BEFORE IT USE TO REACH 1500RPM ON COLDSTART.....car still holding back alot....

any help will be greatly appreciated...thx

miss cleo doesn't have an account here so you need to list what type of car you have and what setup/mods you have

sorry,
primera p11
stock sr20de lowport....
can the cam sensor cause this??
i did a scan no codes came up..

I'm am not recommending to replace the following, but it did help in my case.

coil, dizzy, cap, new cables.

trial and error ignition timing (meaning not stock and not way advanced)

pcv, vac hoses.

I always recommend to replace the cable from coil to cap if you have one, those are a few bucks and wear 4 times faster then your spark plug cables so to say. Also there might be a lot of crap in the DIN connector on your coil which you can scrape out of there.

Be sure to have the plugs Nissan recommends and also make sure they sold you the correct gapping, you might have gotting 1.1mm gapping while needing 0.8-0.9mm

This is what I could think of, I'm not sure the lowport has a coil cable too.

You also might want to look at your spark quality, this might be an indicator. Checking your spark colour is also something to look at.

Oh and my o2 was so bad, it wasn't cheap but all this little things helped me overcome my power dip. My car must be pretty close to spec now.

If you have paper filter with dirt, replace that too. don;t look at the mileage Nissan says it can take. Those filter clog way fast.

I'd say, with proper spark, good compression and no leaks in vac or the motor, proper adjustments and verified working sensors, it should put out the power it should.

You might want to check your injectors, I cant help you with this.

HTH

p.s. I would check the sensor in the ignition housing as the last one, you might want to check it if it could use a cleaning and it should throw an error code, however I'm only eperienced with knowing the CAS sensor is in working order, I;m not too sure about engine behaviour with a not so good one.

i don't tink my engine have a coil cable. pcv was changed.
won't the O2 sensor come up on a scan? *** in the scan it did not.

"the sensor in the ignition housing"? could u elaborate a little. like where that is located? an how?

thnaks so much for the help.

What word I have to fill in under the 3 *? I really don't know.

Cam sensor or CAS (Crank Angle Sensor) if you remove rotor and cap, you will find black plastic, underthere is a little lamp, a wheel with little holes and a electronic part that produces a little signal the ECU can read, because that little wheel spins and that electronic part actually sees that little lamp (LED) blinking because of the rotating wheel.

This tells the ECU somewhat where the piston is and decides on what degree of the crank, so when the piston is closing in on BDP, to ignite. This engine needs this stuff, to advance and retard timing. This is needed to give good burn and power for instance. (And some headache sometimes ;))

It *might* be dirty, and it could be that cleaning lets the engine better run. I must say I wonder how it can get dirty. It also can be broken, if it really is broken, engine won't run at all.

I tried to remove my CAS sensor from the ignition housing (for this you need to remove the ignition housing to be safe and sound) however, I messed up the little screws, so I actually couldn't get the CAS sensor out easily and probably have to destroy it first to get it out.

But I have a spare ignition housing, so I just swapped those and found out my car still idles erraticaly (for a DD not a big deal, for an engine one would like to race a big deal) and I suspect a crappy injector. However not sure. I will get around to this soon probably, because I fail to pass smog and I'm too late.

So, removing the CAS sensor can become a (little?) problem for you.

If you really want to trial and error and learn, what I did was getting a scrap car for $400 and totally took it apart. I'v sold the engine, tranny and bodywork and kept almost everything else. Of course I don;t know if you can scrap a car, you need room for this and logistics to get rid of the leftovers.

This gave me the oppurtiniy to try a few things by swapping. Leanr both same parts are just as bad, or just try my skills first on something risky, or just destroy stuff to learn about this. It took quite a few months but with the book, I learned a lot.

I also spend a few hundreds on new parts like o2, all the maintenance they do at the recommended intervals and pcv, neutralswitch also add up. Those cost $30 each. 02 was $160 overhere...

And I still don't pass smog, catalytic converter is suspect #1, since I know all else is new or in good enough shape. Besides my injector problem. I'm not sure. I failed at 2800 rpm. Fuel economy is good enough. Sparks look very good and the same.

If you don't depend on this car as a DD, I recommend taking it apart and putting it back together and take your time. Of course as far as you want to go with this.

I really hope I get you going with my bla.

p.s. When you remove the ignition housing and put it back, strictly you will need to adjust timing, so you atleast will need a timinglight and knowledge of how to put the car in timing mode. Ghetto solution is marking the position of the ignition housing, and put it back on the same spot. However, this is not recommended.

If you really give the car a bad timing (way too advanced) engine will detonate and this can give permanent engine damage beyond economical repair.

Are you up to this?

i changed the fuel pump and it helped a bit tinking maybe injectors need clleaning or checked..
anyone *** how to test injectors?

I discoverd I had a real bad Fuel Pressure Regulator. Those tend to go. Hard to notice.

You could loosen the fuel rail, check for leaking injectors and start the car and check how all 4 injectors perform. Thats all I can tell you about injectors.

Beware, you might pull a spark somewhere with cranking. A blanket and/ or a fire extuingisher are not a bad idea.

the fpr is working properly. all injectors also.
now, *** do u tink?
can it be an electrical prob?
hesitation on idle?

Dic you check the working of the AAC? Cleaning it should help.

If it is gunky, try intake cleaner. Your PCV should not be leaking. Did you check your EGR if it is clean? It should not contain sticky stuff.

I don't know how to test the AAC without Datascan available. Putting a known good one in is easiest.

For the CAS sensor, it is easiest to swap for a known good ignition housing. If you already made sure your MAF is good, then all I can think of is the CAS or ignition housing itself.

You also could tryto disconnect the o2 sensor, I'm not sure what you mean by it didn;t show up. Car could drive better without 02 sensor connected. maybe it even show the problem better.

I still would like to know what *** means.

I also would like to know how you work, do you have access to spare parts? Analyzing tools? FSM? Timinglight?

what is the CAS?
the AAC and PCV were replaced, still the problem is there.

i don't tink my car has a EGR.

i'll *** try the "disconnecting the O2 sensor now..

Crank Angle Sensor!!!

if your look at the exhaust tubing on cylinder 4, and see a metal piping go via some stuff to your inake, that is the EGR

Keep in mind that disconnecting the O2 means you also disconnect the heater wires. It will destroy the O2 sooner or later when you keep driving it disconnected. Best to do this only for testing purpose.

You reall should take a look at Datascan. This kinda troubles show in the logging. (It needs eperience I also do not have all of yet, but there are more people here).

take a look at blazt.biz to see what I mean, I believe no scan gauge or what kind of reader can compete with this for clarity and logging ability and even testing the AAC without removing it, seeing how the ignition pattern is (might tell you you have bad CAS) etc etc.

thx dude..... i get it scanned....

new problem...