In an ongoing effort to keep my 98 Sentra SE lean and mean I have been trying to take any extra weight off the car. At the track the other day it weighed and honest 2485 with the seats out (front and back) and no spare tire BUT I forgot to take the jack out. This includes all my strut bars and my rear swaybar. With the VE (and most swaps) you end up with extra stuff you don't need. I already disconnected one of the plugs going to my EVAP system so I know it is not working right. I decided to take the whole thing out. Total this would lose me about 10 pounds once I take all the associated hoses and crap off. Anyway the car ran fine without it UNTIL I tried to fill the tank back up. No place for the air to displace to anymore so the pump kept clicking off. I know I can put a check valve on the one line that would solve my problem but I would prefer no to spend the 60 bucks from a racing type store. Any ideas?
I also took the passenger side fan out. The car actually runs cooler on the road. It's not very hot here right now but when I left it running for 5+ minutes the driver side fan will still click on. It also turns on anytime you run the ac of course. Automatic cars have a 3 step fan system so YMMV. I think for track driving this is a good mod plus it really opens up the engine.
You should have seen my wifes face when she just happened to come in the garage as I pulled the fan out and said "don't need this anymore". She has threatened to take my tools away.

I'm thinkin' rip the A/C out and go for a powersteering eliminator kit. Would save you lots of space and weight, thats got to be like 50 pounds. Also if you got rid of the A/C condersor, you would free up lots of airflow to the rad, making the fan you pulled out not quite as crucial. Ever thought about taking out the sound deadening in the rear of the car? I did that and lost probably 25 lbs or so. I wish my car was a hard top!!!

BTW, what flywheel are you using?

For the record, how much extra do you guys think T-tops add on an NX?

edit: One more thing, if you pulled out your fog lights, that would save maybe 10 more pounds and give your CAI a bit more airflow, especially at top end
Get that sucker below 2400!!!

Originally posted by FastNX
I'm thinkin' rip the A/C out and go for a powersteering eliminator kit. Would save you lots of space and weight, thats got to be like 50 pounds. Also if you got rid of the A/C condersor, you would free up lots of airflow to the rad, making the fan you pulled out not quite as crucial. Ever thought about taking out the sound deadening in the rear of the car? I did that and lost probably 25 lbs or so. I wish my car was a hard top!!!

BTW, what flywheel are you using?

For the record, how much extra do you guys think T-tops add on an NX?

edit: One more thing, if you pulled out your fog lights, that would save maybe 10 more pounds and give your CAI a bit more airflow, especially at top end
Get that sucker below 2400!!!

I hear ya. I have been thinking about the fog light deal for a little while. I could also make some ducting for the road courses to cool the brakes. I have a sub 10lbs flywheel already. I will be keeping the AC. I need that for work purposes. How much louder will the car be with no sound deading. 25 lbs seems like a lot of weight. I already own a heat gun.

Maybe this could be a serious weight reduction thread.

Just imagine MY wifes face when she saw my new lightened steering wheel.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/pf8d286798e5677ccaa6785f55f9c09a6/fd374846.jpg


As far as the sound deadening stuff:

The car didnt get much louder. It did get warmer though. Just pick a nice hot day to take the tar out. Leave your car bakingin the hot sun for a few hours with the windows up. All the heat will soften the tar. Then get a nice chisel and slowly watch the tar just peel off. I didnt have to use a heat gun at all. I weighed the stuff at Publix and it weighed 30+ lbs!! :)

My trunk has no supports or latches. I have light weight billet aluminum hood pins holding it down. Dont use those heavy ass steel hood pins. Aluminum is the way to go. APC has them for 13.99+ tax. The hood has half the supports on it. I have to use 3 pins to hold that down. Half the rear deck where the rear speakers go has been dremmeled out. And the bottom half of my dash is out. No glove box. The glove box weighs a ton!!
Theres also a nice fat heavy bracket under the steering wheel that I took out. Thats like a good 5-6 pounds. No water resevoir bottle either. I took off 1/2 the wheel well cover. The side facing the bumper, i opened op the fog light holes, and BAM, instant brake cooling!!
I have 100s of pics. All this makes for a 14.5 1/4 mile SE-R w/ just I/H/E. :) Im happy.

If you're serious about losing weight, you could take out the latches in the doors and make that hood-pin style too, ive seen it done on race cars, gotta be worth 10 lbs or so.
Lightweight racing seats are more supportive and are probably good for 20 pounds at least.
smoothdaddyfig: you still have power steering? Get rid of that sunroof!!!

I want to find out how much weight I can loose from my G20 without sacraficing any conveniences, like stereo or seats and a/c. any suggestions on things I don't need and won't miss. Not for track racing just for everyday fun.

Dude, convienence items are where the weight is at. About the only weight loss procedures you can implement with your limitations are lightened flywheel and underdrive pulleys. And maybe remove one of the radiator fans. Maybe 25 pounds total.

i would love to get rid of my power steering a and get an electric water pump and dismantle my ac, that should be good for alot of weight and space in the engine bay!!

Here is my list of places/ways to loose weight. Some I will do some I will not.

1) Get rid of all emmision crap. EGR, Evap, And all associated hoses going under/thru the car.
2) Remove 1 radiator fan. (Check and be sure the other still works when car get hot, not just when you turn on the ac
3) Remove Fog Lights
4) Remove sound deading
5) Header
6) Remove heatsheilds around cat and muffler/Replace with Fabric Heat Wrap if Needed
7) Remove Spare tire/jack and all the fabric out of the trunk.
8) Remove Remote trunk release
9) Remove Gas tank release and take off cover.
10) AC and all associated stuff under the dash
11) Metal brace under the steering wheel (Saftey Item
:eek: )
12) Remove Cruise and all asociated items
13) Replace side windows with lexan/Plastic
14) Dynobatt Battery (What is the generic name and how do you get it for under 100$, I know you can)
15) Home made Aluminum Battery Tie Down ( I did this one cheap)

OK that is my list. Like I said I am not doing all of them but some of you might be willing to try it. Any other ideas???

Hey Steve.....try www.gotbatteries.com for #14;)

Originally posted by turbo b13 se-r
Hey Steve.....try www.gotbatteries.com for #14;)

Actually, I spent too much on a dynobatt. 1 week latter I so that I could have saved $50. Oh Well. I asked that to keep others from making the same mistake I did. Thanks for the link.

If you do all the things on 98sr20ve's list plus carbon fiber hood and some light weight wheels (konig heliums 10.9lbs), I bet the Sentra can get down to 2.3k lbs.

6) Remove heatsheilds around cat and muffler/Replace with Fabric Heat Wrap if Needed
Heat shields are a cinch. I didnt wrap mine at all. The center floor gets warm but not enough to effect cabin temperatures when the a/c is on
7) Remove Spare tire/jack and all the fabric out of the trunk.
I moved my jack and such to the front of the car for more weight over the front tires for better Drag launches.
8) Remove Remote trunk release
9) Remove Gas tank release and take off cover.
These 2 are really easy. My gas cap stays closed even though there is no latch on it. The trunk is pinned down.

10) AC and all associated stuff under the dash
glove box weighs a ton. Half of my radio center console brace is off. The brackets are thick and heavy gauge steel.

11) Metal brace under the steering wheel (Saftey Item
:eek: )
You have a steel bar that runs from one side to the other. Then a steel brace on just the drivers side. The steel brace can go. I think its just a knee protector. I left the bar on so Idont get crushed if I am hit on the side.
12) Remove Cruise and all asociated items
This one is fun as the bolts are a pain to get to on the Cruise control motor-thingy by the wheel well

15) Home made Aluminum Battery Tie Down ( I did this one cheap)
A heavy duty rubber bungee cord is cheap too!!

Originally posted by turbo b13 se-r
Hey Steve.....try www.gotbatteries.com for #14;)

I saved the thread about this:
http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20026&highlight=battery+relocate+kit

Originally posted by SmoothDaddyFig

15) Home made Aluminum Battery Tie Down ( I did this one cheap)
A heavy duty rubber bungee cord is cheap too!!

For track racing and autocrossing, you'll need a real tie down or you won't pass inspection

Originally posted by 99SE-L
If you do all the things on 98sr20ve's list plus carbon fiber hood and some light weight wheels (konig heliums 10.9lbs), I bet the Sentra can get down to 2.3k lbs.

Well, the Nissan Motorsports Europe F2 Sunny GTi rally car weighed 2090lbs with all the glass and a full roll cage.

A couple of things left out in lists above:
- gut the bumper(s) (huge savings)
- seats (I can lift each of my Cobra Imola IIs with one finger)
- coil-overs (my Hot Bits are quite a bit lighter and stronger than the OEM struts)
- switch to wind-up doors
- gut the doors (I would only do this if you're going cage with door bars)

I'm sure there's more - it depends on how much comfort you're willing to sacrifice.

One thing that I would not do if you're doing any kind of competitive high-perf. for any length of time is remove the second fan

Robin

Originally posted by rallyrobin
One thing that I would not do if you're doing any kind of competitive high-perf. for any length of time is remove the second fan

Robin

Interesting, Some race cars dont even have fans. I can tell by my crappy oem gauge that the car is running slightly cooler on the highway without 1 of the fans. I would think for city driving the fan would be a plus but on the track it could actually hurt you. What am I missing?

Some quick pics
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/p359eb4567f315a3133fdaa0a317c470a/fd34a9dc.jpg


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/p237ab4bad49e48980b8d14f80aeec6f3/fd35f1a5.jpg

Trunk with no latch or much of anything else.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/pbe04d98c33436538fd914bda92b0e83d/fd35f127.jpg

Half supported hood.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/p32861b42eb3e0d43ee0b050aa5ecd9ee/fd35f1a6.jpg

Insulated air filter. That 2'' thick fiberglass a/c duct. NO heat even comes close.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/p70f3178e424c359b7c31ebf024510ab5/fd35f27f.jpg

A few things to look for ....

In the B13s, the "hatch" for the glove compartment has a hunk of metal in it. It's about 10X4 inches and weighs a pound or so. I guess it's there so the hatch feels more "solid" when closing it. Anyway, take the hatch out and take it apart, and you can toss this piece of metal aside. :)

If you take out the passenger seat, you have no need for the passenger-side seatbelt, right? ;) The whole assembly is pretty heavy.

Also, in addition to the jack, you can take out the metal bracket that holds the jack in place.