I'm going to be running this setup very soon. I know this setup runs well, but I'm wondering what I can do to help lean out the mixture a little bit across the board. Bore out the MAF some? Put a resistor inline with the injectors?

I will dyno the car at eric's shop with a wideband to see what it's doing, but my guess is that it will be VERY rich since 370cc injectors are 30% bigger than 259cc ones.

What makes a 259cc injector different than a 370cc one? Something physical? Or is the internal resistance just different or something?

I'm going to have to start a car club called Ghetto Tuning or something :)

I've always wanted to try to see how far the 259s could go. Don't you think they'd handle 6# of boost? You could try it a 4 or 5 lbs and then move your way up on the dyno. Or has this be tried and failed?

You running FMIC or top mount?

Good luck with your project!

Cheers,
Charlie

Talk to Andreas Miko!

1. I would try and find an old style AFC. They can be had cheaply.
2. I would try to bore the MAF.
3. Use 370 cc INJ.

That is what I would do personally. The older afc's work great.

Originally posted by CharlieH98
I've always wanted to try to see how far the 259s could go. Don't you think they'd handle 6# of boost? You could try it a 4 or 5 lbs and then move your way up on the dyno. Or has this be tried and failed?

You running FMIC or top mount?

Good luck with your project!

Cheers,
Charlie

You can't make the car boost any lower than what the stock wastegate actuator sring is rated at i.e. 7 or so psi. The only way to achieve lower boost is to lower the actuator spring pressure by changing it to a 4-5 psi spring.

Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC)

a) Example 1) SR20DE NA 1998cc 4cyl with a BSFC of .45 running 259cc/24.6 lb/hr inj @ 3 bar 43.5psi @ 100% Duty Cycle can support 218.6 hp

b) Example 2) SR20DET 1998cc 4cyl with a BSFC of .50 running 259cc/24.6 lb/hr inj @ 3 bar 43.5psi @ 100% Duty Cycle can support only 196.8 hp

Some people may argue that example (b) assuming a BSFC of .50 may be to small so here is the out come of horsepower support at an assumed .55 BSFC = 178.9 hp with 259cc/24.6 inj @ 3 bar.

Calculating a BSFC of .55 is safer for a turbo car and is also probably more common for people to use a .60 BSFC, it just depends usually this info can be recieved by way of dyno.

NOTE: All the above horespower supports are at 100% duty cycle, this is not safe. The MAX. duty cycle should be no more than 85% duty cycle when calculating, I only did this to show you what the MAX unsafe HP would be.

Just a little info for since you were wondering how far 259cc/min can take you. Remember you could also run the 259cc/min at 4 bar and get a little more flow out of them.

Also example (a) is NA not turbo.

I'll run 370s for now since I know they work, but I'll grab my 259s when I dyno and see how they do. If I blow my motor up I got spares :)

Originally posted by 2wdBlazer
1. I would try and find an old style AFC. They can be had cheaply.
2. I would try to bore the MAF.
3. Use 370 cc INJ.

That is what I would do personally. The older afc's work great.

The old style AFC would not be a good choice because the difference in percentage from 259cc vs 370cc is greater than 30% and the old style AFC can only alter up 30%+/- vs new SAFC 50%+/-.

I wouldn't bore out the MAF, it is a finely tuned instrument and anything you do to alter the main bore diameter directly effect the way it calculates air flow, to do this correctly you would also need to bore the smaller hole and that would probably require more work evolving high tech equipment and shit to meter air flow just buy an SAFC and be done.

Originally posted by Ben92SentraSE-R
I'll run 370s for now since I know they work, but I'll grab my 259s when I dyno and see how they do. If I blow my motor up I got spares :)

A Ben I know or engines come a dime a dozen but that dosen't mean you can put them on the endangered species list (sp):mad: ;) . At least run the 259cc at 4 bar this should be able to handle a stock DET (probably).

Do you know how to do the trick with the screw in the stock FPR to get higher fuel pressure? I have spare stock FPRs so I afford to play.

why dont you get a rising rate FPR?

Originally posted by FastNX
why dont you get a rising rate FPR?

I would stay away from any RRFPR other than the stock RRFPR 1:1. RRFPR = monkey buisness for the most part, not a great way to tune. Just my opinion.

Plus it costs more money. :) Me want cheap, ghetto, but good running turbo system! :) Stock ECU rules! :)

Ok, back to mature mode...

Originally posted by Ben92SentraSE-R
Do you know how to do the trick with the screw in the stock FPR to get higher fuel pressure? I have spare stock FPRs so I afford to play.

Yeah, you didn't see my post on that?

http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25886&highlight=stock+adjustable+FPR


I have a few spare ones also that why I tried it although I have not ran the car with it I have not doubts that it won't will work. Once you actually tap the hole and understand how the FPR works you be convenced that it is should work. Actually I just got my car started last night started on the very first try although I have not driven it yeat I still need to tune it you know set timing, adjust idle, TPS ect... and connect my Apexi Turbo Timer and SAFC up and a few other little things buy the way of course you know i'm runnig the stock ECU.

Hmmm... Can you decrease the stock fuel pressure? I'm thinking that may be a way to lean out the 370s on a stock ECU a bit.

I like this project. Here's what I've been thinking.

$1000 180hp ghetto turbo setup Stage 1

BB Manifold $150
T25 rebuilt spring set @ 4# $400
JGY Downpipe $190
Oil & Water Lines $70
Bosch BOV $35
Intake pipes & Misc. $50
K&N $40

Run this on a stock ecu, stock injectors, no intercooler, stock intake pipes for the most part. Hey, I'm under $1000! Throw in a 6 puck :D

Cheers,
Charlie :)

Charlie- can't you get the whole manifold/turbo/j-pipe/heatshields/oil and water lines for like $350?

I believe a 1st gen DSM BOV can be had from junkyards for about $15, maybe less.

I don't think that the stock injectors can run 7psi on a T25. You MAY be able to up the fuel pressure via the ghetto screw way which I will play with. Until someone determines that does the trick, let's recommend people run the 370s on their stock ECUs since we KNOW that works. Don't want to tell people to run stock injectors with the FPR mod and have them blow their motors sky high. :)

Also the non-intercooled setup would have to be tested as well. I know the interheater is about the same as non-intercooled, but would still want to test it.

Make sure to run premium fuel on this setup! :)

Here's my pricing:

T25 turbo/BB manifold/j-pipe/heatshields/oil and water lines - $350
370cc injectors - $150
U-pipe with BOV - $40
IC and intake plumbing - $50
cone filter - $40
Bluebird IC - $100
JGY downpipe- $175

That's $905 :) :cool:

Ben,

It's all good :)

The issue is: How well does the stock ecu run the bigger injectors? Does it foul out the plugs and clog the cat? How's the mpg? How's it drive?

Let us know how it works. It's an interesting project.

Cheers,
Charlie :)

Originally posted by CharlieH98
Ben,

It's all good :)

The issue is: How well does the stock ecu run the bigger injectors? Does it foul out the plugs and clog the cat? How's the mpg? How's it drive?

Let us know how it works. It's an interesting project.

Cheers,
Charlie :)

Yeah Ben, I want to now how your car ran with the stock ECU and then I'll tell you how mine is running with the stock ECU and then with SAFC w/stock ECU. CharlieH98 I tell you what just running the stock ECU w/ 370cc it runs super rich!!! and it will foul out the plugs very quickly at less this was my case. I hooked up the SAFC and now it pretty much got rid of a studer spot arounf 4-5000 rpm not to mention low throttle is leaned out across the boards in the high 30% - low 40% range on the SAFC and cannot get accurate A/F reading because I don't have a down pipe on yeat, I believe the O2 sensor is not confined enough in just the exhaust elbow without downpipe attached, to much outside air is not allowing for it to get hot enough.

NOTE: I still have a little more tunning before I can really judge the stock ecu and SAFC.

Originally posted by Ben92SentraSE-R
Charlie- can't you get the whole manifold/turbo/j-pipe/heatshields/oil and water lines for like $350?

Here's my pricing:

T25 turbo/BB manifold/j-pipe/heatshields/oil and water lines - $350
370cc injectors - $150
U-pipe with BOV - $40
IC and intake plumbing - $50
cone filter - $40
Bluebird IC - $100
JGY downpipe- $175

That's $905 :) :cool:


It would still be cheaper to buy a SR20DET and use your stock ECU and 259cc if you want to run it the ghetto cheap way

Nippon Motor - $975
JGY downpipe - $175
Stock ECU $FREE
259cc $FREE
370cc $FREE

Thats $1150

Ben I really doubt you can get a T25 turbo/BB manifold/j-pipe/heatshields/oil and water lines for - $350

YES!!!!!!!! I figured out why the hell the car was hesitating/stumbling so bad one of the fuel injector was freaking leaking agang of fuel. What I did was detach the fuel rail from the ITM turn the ignition to the on position and watch #3 injector litterally poor fuel out at a very fast rate. It wasted about 2 1/2 gallons of fuel idleing in about 40 minutes turning off and on and trying to adjust the SAFC, no wonder the SAFC had to turned down freakin 50% just to getthe car from smoking. Right now I have the biggest headache from gas fumes, thats how freaking bad it was not to mention my oil level went up from all the excess gas, hopefully this didn't cause a problem in that cylinder I will rechange the oil soon as I fix the injector.