Had a sachs clutch, don't bother with it. Burnt. I ordered a JWT pressure plate and SE disc with new throw out bearing and axle seals. Probably going to use Redline MT-90, unless someone tells me otherwise. I was just curious if I should be doing anything else while I am that deep inside. Any Suggestions? Doing it this weekend. Thanks guys! Lata.........Oh yeah kinda unsure on the breakin period. I heard about 300 miles of being babied.

might want to change the rear main seal (~$25), and maybe the clutch cable (~$35) if you feel necessary, altho it's not deep down there.

I've read 500 miles for the break-in and get a light weight flywheel while your in there.

where is the cheapest place to get a clutch cable?

oem clutch cable, you should probably just go with courtesy. not THAT cheap, but cheaper than my local dealer.
if you want non oem, you can try nopi or thepartsbin.com - might find some for $25 or so.

500 miles is correct, and make sure you machine the flywheel very good or you'll glaze the clutch like I did. A 6 puck that slips after 2 months.:mad:

Originally posted by Loe Lyf
500 miles is correct, and make sure you machine the flywheel very good or you'll glaze the clutch like I did. A 6 puck that slips after 2 months.:mad: Why machine the flywheel? And what does it mean to "glaze" ? I have a non-performance clutch and it grips pretty well, i plan on installing a clutchmasters stage 1 next summer and yeah it would probably be a good idea to install a 9LB flywheel since you dont want to go back in there and have to open up the tranny again, well thats some good advice about machining the flywheel, even if it's aluminum?

NOPI is out of the $20 clutch cables, tried to order one today. As a matter of fact, they didn't have shit! They only had one of the 4 things I wanted to order and that was the ES bushing kit. No cheap $34 STB's, no $20 clutch cables, no $33 T.O. bearings. I recommend you phone order, because they're not courteous enought to notify you if 75% of your order won't be showing up. I only found out because I called back to add some things to my order. Mossy has the clutch cable for $35.78 ordering one of those tomorrow as well as a rear dogbone mount. Ok, dumb question, but, do you need to machine a brand new flywheel? Maybe just scuff it up with a scotchbrite pad and clean it off with some brake cleaner? Isn't that all they do anyways when they "machine" it? I think he's got a point there, I didn't "machine" the flywheel in my XE when I put the clutch in a few months ago, and last time I drove it before I sold it, I noticed it felt like the clutch was slipping at high RPM's. How tough is it to press out/in a pilot bearing? Thanks, didn't mean to go off topic. :)

I just had JGY replace my clutch on sunday. I bought an OEM setup. I am still in the process of my 500 mile break-in. Haven't taken her over 4000 rpm yet. I had a spare SR20DE flywheel so I had it resurfaced for $29. Like others have said, it's a good idea to resurface or "machine" the flywheel, but if it was new, I don't know if I'd bother. I had bought a rear main seal too, but it wasn't leaking, so it wasn't replaced.

For a cable, get one from courtesy nissan in TX (1.800.527.1909). Ask for Brian Randall. :D

A flywheel gets very glazed from the clutch disc material (it looks like it's burned metal.....bluish grey) as well as the pressure plate. If these aren't machined, the disc won't stick to the flywheel or pressure plate, causing slippage. You don't have to machine a new flywheel or pressure plate, but scuffing it up a bit might prolong the life of the clutch.