OK....
Trying to change the passenger side axle shaft. Bought one from Autozone for $59.99 with a $55 core charge (part # 7252).
Used a pickle fork to remove the ball joint and trashed the rubber covering the ball joint.

Bought a ball joint from O'Reillys for $37.99 (part # K9449). Just read from the Haynes manual that 90 and above models ball joint should not be changed....instead the whole control arm should be changed (page 10-8) whereas the FSM says that the ball joint can be replaced (page FA-27).

So what's the deal here? Can it be changed? Also, I can't seem to get the ball joint out of the control arm. Is the some kind of pin holding it on? Please help.

And I'm trying to replace the tie rod end too. I just can't seem to get it to separate from the arm. Then again, I'm trying to use the ball joint pickle fork to do the job. Should I get the tie rod pickle fork to do the job?

Any help from any of you would really be great.
Also, I would like to point out one more thing....instead of using WD-40 to loosen nuts....use P-Blaster (as recomended by another forum member Bud Man to remove O2 sensor). It's really a great product. Really made it easier to remove the nuts!

Melvyn

Originally posted by modem_man
OK....
Trying to change the passenger side axle shaft. Bought one from Autozone for $59.99 with a $55 core charge (part # 7252).
Used a pickle fork to remove the ball joint and trashed the rubber covering the ball joint.

Bought a ball joint from O'Reillys for $37.99 (part # K9449). Just read from the Haynes manual that 90 and above models ball joint should not be changed....instead the whole control arm should be changed (page 10-8) whereas the FSM says that the ball joint can be replaced (page FA-27).

So what's the deal here? Can it be changed? Also, I can't seem to get the ball joint out of the control arm. Is the some kind of pin holding it on? Please help.

And I'm trying to replace the tie rod end too. I just can't seem to get it to separate from the arm. Then again, I'm trying to use the ball joint pickle fork to do the job. Should I get the tie rod pickle fork to do the job?

Any help from any of you would really be great.
Also, I would like to point out one more thing....instead of using WD-40 to loosen nuts....use P-Blaster (as recomended by another forum member Bud Man to remove O2 sensor). It's really a great product. Really made it easier to remove the nuts!

Melvyn

Yes they can be changed at least on 91-94 Sentra SE-R I know. You have to use snap rings pliers to remove the snap ring on the ball joint before it can come out.

Thanks Charlie2020....

Do you mind telling me what the procedure is? Wot kind of tools do I need? Can I rent them or buy them?

If I have to take it to a shop, what kinda shop do I take it to to be pressed? How much would it be? (really important....cos I'm almost out of money and it's only the beginning of the month).

Thanks.

Originally posted by modem_man
Thanks Charlie2020....

Do you mind telling me what the procedure is? Wot kind of tools do I need? Can I rent them or buy them?

If I have to take it to a shop, what kinda shop do I take it to to be pressed? How much would it be? (really important....cos I'm almost out of money and it's only the beginning of the month).

Thanks.

For one if your replaceing the ball joint just hammer them out who cares if they get damaged. Two you don't have to press in the new ball joint. Three I recomends that you degrease very well the hole the ball joint go into and the ball joint shaft that go throught the hole this is OK as this is not suppost to turn anyways. The reason for degreaseing is so when you start tightening the ball joint it will pull up into the hole without turning because if it turns you can't tighten it also before you start tightening the ball joint tap it into the hole so that it is snug this will alow for an easier start on tightening.

TIP: Raise the car from the center as this will allow easy removal of the HUB off the ball joint, if you raise it only from the side you are working on it close to impossible to lift off the ball joint.

TIP: Don't forget about the snap rings.

Hope this helps.;)

-To remove hub from ball joint, support the rotor (under the rotor only, not under balljoint/control arm) with a jack. Loosen the castle nut on the balljoint and make the top of it even with the top of the balljoint's threaded rod. This is so you will not damage the threads of the balljoint when you bang on it. With the hub/rotor supported by the jack and castle nut even with the top of the threaded rod, pound on the nut/rod/balljoint to pop it out of the hub. Even though it's held in by a nut and cotter pin, it's still a semi-pressed in part.

-Once the balljoint pops loose, take the nut off and remove the hub/knuckle assembly from the balljoint. Remove the snap ring. Next, support the edge of the control arm with the jack leaving the balljoint bottom unhindered from popping out the bottom when you pound. Put the castle nut back on the balljoint threaded rod even with the top of the rod. Now POUND. The bigger hammer the better. Time to get out all of that built up agression. :)

-Once you free the balljoint, it's time to press the new one in. Rent a balljoint press tool from your local Autozone. Use it to press in the new balljoint. It would be useless to describe this in words. You will just have to figure out how the tool works.

That's pretty much it. Put hub/knuckle on new balljoint, tighten castle nut and put in cotter pin.