I didn't want to high-jack modem_man's thread, so I'll just start my own.

I have bent control arms (a long story) and I recently found some off a wrecked Sentra. The used arms have the ball joints attached. They seem to be OK, so I'm not looking to replace them. Do I need this "pickel fork" or whatever it is to remove the old control arm?

Yes you will.....but I really wouldn't recommending using the pickle fork.
Instead go to JcWhitney and purchase one that is recommended by the Nissan Manual.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=65281&BQ=jcw2

You should buy both of them as I believe that you will also need to remove the tie rod end too.

Reason why you shouldn't use thepickle fork....it's becos using the fork will most likely bust the rubber cap on the ball joint. Mine's busted which is why I need to change it.

FYI, I'm still waiting for some kinda procedure to remove the ball joint and replace it. Any help would really be appreciated.

One more thing....S&H for JcWhitney is pretty expensive....but as far as I know....none of the autoparts shop carry them.

Good Luck.

To separate the control arm ball joint from the spindle, loosen the ball joint nut until it is even with the top of the bolt. Take a big-ass screwdriver and wedge it in there. Drive the wedge through with a big-ass hammer and the ball joint pops free.

To change the ball joint:
http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15430&highlight=ball+joint+press

http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14703&highlight=ball+joint+press

To remove the control arm from the knuckle, you do not need a pickle fork. Just use a hammer on the side of the knuckle near the ball joint. After a few good wacks, it should come off.

MadMatt....
Sorry for hijacking your thread! Hehehehehehehehe....

jacen99SE
Thanks for the info and the links to the forum discussion. For some reason when I did a search on that....your thread didn't show up. I've decided to take the crossmember to a shop that will do it for me for $30. I need to get it done soon as it will be raining here the next few weeks I believe and won't be able to ride my motorbike to work. But thanks. next time I change the other ball joint.....I'm going to try and do it myself. At least I know what I need.
A few more questions, do I need a special too to remove the snap ring? A Snap ring remover? Will I need to replace the snapring with a new one or should I reuse the old one?

eric96ser
Whacking the knuckle? Is that a good idea? Won't that hurt or bend something? I don't know about that man. Please reply.

Melvyn

As long as you don't go crazy with the hammer, you should be okay. I always put the balljoint nut on loose, so I don't hit the threads.

Originally posted by modem_man
A few more questions, do I need a special too to remove the snap ring? A Snap ring remover? Will I need to replace the snapring with a new one or should I reuse the old one?


The tool is called "snap-ring pliers". I got my set from Meijers for <$15. The new ball joints come with new snap rings.

Pickle forks - bah! Both balljoints and tie rods can be removed using the nut-even-with-top-of-threaded-rod method and a BIG hammer. Always works like a charm for me. :)

I've used a slighlty modified BFH method. I take a jack, and jack up the hub using the lug nut studs, and then hammer on the control arm.

Josh

All you guys with your BFG's are a bunch of Neanderthals :)

I've posted this before, and swear by it, read it and WEEP!!!

Here's a great trick for seperating the ball joint. Scott Higashi sent it to the mailing list a few years ago, and it works like a charm! No smashin, no bashing, no pickle fork ripping the boot.

********************
Here's my own trick to remove the ball joint...

Take a 14mm open end wrench and put the "crow's foot"
between the balljoint nut and the spindle/hub. Basically
straddle the BJ bolt. Then, loosen the BJ nut back against
the wrench to "press" the balljoint out. It'll take some muscle, and break free with a bang, but it'll break free!

Works every time, and I've done it a LOT!

-Scott
********************

Chris

Thanks guys. I used a pickel fork. Busted the boots, but the junkyard arms came with good boots, so it wasn't a big deal.

The car is now straight again. And amazingly, it makes far fewer pops, creaks and groans. Good stuff having a straight car.

The drivers side was BENT. The passenger side wasn't too bad at all. Probably could have kept it on. But the lower mileage bushings and ball joint is good peace of mind for only $30.

Matt-going to VIR-north next weekend to roll some Honduhs!

Originally posted by MaddMatt
But the lower mileage bushings and ball joint is good peace of mind for only $30.


What, you had the conrtol arms off the car and didn't install the ES control arm bushings? Shame on you! (unless you did it for classification reasons)

Neat method, Chris. I'll have to remember to try that.