No this is not a repeat question (at least i hope not) has anyone thought of completely filling the motor mounts esp with polyurethane?

a buddy of mine who is going to make some poly bushings for his pulsar nx showed me this site

http://www.tadavies.com/urethane.htm

i was thinking of drilling out half the mount and filling it with one of the series either l, m, or s from the site. then let it dry and drill out the other side and do the same thing. only reason im saying to do it half and half is to keep the center sleeve in the correct position when your done.

any thoughts if this has been discussed and i missed it please let me know i didnt pull up anything to this mater in the search

do a search on "motor mount" ... when I was ready to install mine I searched and found a lot of people filled there mounts with something. Some used the ES inserts and some had JWT mounts... you just gotta read through them.

no i am aware of the 3m window weld and filling the gaps. but since this is polyurethane and if you would fill the whole thing this would be as good as pr's and jwt mounts with hopefully a cheaper price tag.

i want to remove the oem mount all together and fill it with polyurethane

i see, i thought they were using some polyurethane to fill the mounts... I see what you are saying now...
It might be a bit tough to fill half the mount and then fill the other half... I think you'd need to fashion some type of "cup" that goes on one side so you can fill it, let dry and then remove the cup.

http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25453&highlight=Energy+Suspension


Bennitto Mallito is the man you need to talk to... at least from the questions he answered for me in that thread. Hope this can lead to answers for your own questions Camp.

well i filled my mounts with the poly stuff and it holds good. as for your idea like someone else has said you would have to fashion some sort of patch to stay in the middle and thatmight or might not work. maybe play around with some duct tape and that may help hold the poly till it dries.

Look through some search results, because I remember extensive talk about filling mounts with lots of different compounds that you can buy and I'm sure polyurethane is one of them. It's an old old thread though so you'll have to look through them to find it.

Ypsho your the man thats exactly what i was thinking of doing i was just wondering if it would work!

all i want to do is drill out and gut say half of the rubber mount with enough left to hold the sleeve then pour in the polyurethane then let that one side dry. once done i will gut out the left over rubber side and pour in the poly. i dont think there needs to be any kind of special fabrication done.

the post with benitto explaining it just reassured me ;)

Thanks, always happy to help out a buddy.

Let us all know if you do it. Benitto said he had good results... he certainly got me thinking about it. If I didn't already have the ES mounts I'd give it a try.

i still have un-wanted engine shake, even after front and back es mounts, and a homemade (very solid) tranny mount... is there any possibility of filling that back mount along with the es mount??

I've read other people complaining from time to time about still having unwanted engine shake... I don't understand what people are talking about. Mine's rock solid with them in. Sure, the engine transmits more vibration to the entire car, but that's to be expected.

What do you (or anyone else) mean when you say you still have un-wanted engine shake? (Just trying to understand this).


Thanks!

I loved this mod. Fun factor up 110%. Thanks for the shout out Yosho. Honestly I copied this from many others, most notably our moderator ben92ser.

I was gonna do this again with my classic this weekend, but ran into some problems. Axle broken, no prob Napa to the rescue (thanks Chris). I pulled the cross member, and found an egg shaped firewall mount. The sleeve was totally distorted! woof!

If you have a core you can prep the mount, and install it in one shot. Drill/cut out all the rubber. Leave enough to keep the pin in the center. Tape one side, pour, and let dry. You can install in about 12 hrs, and have fun in 24.

It will help keep you from blowing out tranny's, clutches, and killing axles. look for "ghetto mounts" in the archive.
$25 from Mcmaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/

DID ANYBODY TRY THE PLACE RACEING MOTOR MOUNTS?

http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/august02/pr_g20_mounts/




AND THEY HAVE A WARRANTIE ON THEM

It will help keep you from blowing out tranny's, clutches, and killing axles.

How do you figure? The stiffer the mounts are, the less torque absorbed by them which results in more torque going straight to the drivetrain. With solid mounts you'd be more likely to cause drivetrain damage.

Granted, the ES inerts are cheap enough and easy to do, and making homemade solid mounts isn't rocket science, but has anyone done the age old muslcecar method, and simply chained the engine? I would only do it for a drag car though. I might try the PR mounts if/when I do an engine swap if they're not terribly expensive.

Hmmm never heard of anyone chaining the engine... wouldn't that still result in the mounts absorbing less movement (and as you asserted, causing possible drivetrain damage?).

I purchased the engine mounts becaues the engine had so much deflection on the stock mounts that it broke my stock downpipe. This is actually a fairly common problem on B14 SE-Rs (not sure about 13's and 15's).

I find it hard to imagine that engine slop can be anything but bad for a transmission or suspension. By reducing the deflection, you would at least be able keep parts in their designed positions. Sure it makes sense that you'll transmit more vibration through the mounts, but isn't it deflection that's really to blame for these parts failing and not vibration?

Yeah i think Yosho's right. When you stop fast or accelerate/shift hard, it's the engine or tranny moving back and forth and then clunking when it finally compresses the mounts enough that will cause the most strain on trannies and drivetrain parts. Less movement = less clunking = less chance your tranny bolts will get sheared off or that it will crack.

hey RySE-R 1...

i must say, that is one of the nicest classic's i have ever seen!! great job!:D

Hmmm never heard of anyone chaining the engine... wouldn't that still result in the mounts absorbing less movement (and as you asserted, causing possible drivetrain damage?).

Musclecar drag guys have been chaning engines for decades. Yes, chaining the engine would have less movement than solid mounts and would transfer all the torque straight to the drivetrain with minimal loss to the mounts. Therefore, yes it would cause possible drivetrain damage, but if you're going to do it for drag purposes in some form or another, why not try it this more traditional method. Chain is cheap and easy to come by. Like I said, only in an all out drag car that you've welded the tranny case.

I find it hard to imagine that engine slop can be anything but bad for a transmission or suspension. By reducing the deflection, you would at least be able keep parts in their designed positions. Sure it makes sense that you'll transmit more vibration through the mounts, but isn't it deflection that's really to blame for these parts failing and not vibration?

I agree, however we're talking about two extremes here. Too much slop in the mounts allows for things to move too much, like you mentioned. However, as I've postulated, a solid mount would transfer most of the torque straight through to the drivetrain which would need to be prepped properly to deal with that sort of stress which it was not necessarily engineered to encounter to that degree. I don't think engine vibration from solid mounts causes much more than irritation to the driver. As you've said, too much deflection is what causes problems and from what I understand, is what causes tranny cases to crack, they hit the dogbone. So I guess what I'm getting at is that good firm mount is probably a good thing, but you'll want to be sure to address the increased torque placed on the drivetrain.

My wife has a POS '91 Ford Tempo that had bad mounts, you could powerbrake it into smacking into the firewall and the radiator. There was so much movement that a vac line broke and her HVAC controls didn't work until I figured out that's what had happened. :) I was tempted to wedge blocks of wood where the mounts were because the torque loss was so exagerated that you had to really be carefull when you pulled out onto a busy road.

Chains have been discuessed, in threads before. Terrible for a car, can be good for a drag race. I've never heard of anyone using them on SER's

The mechanics of engine stabilzation, are complicated. You always compromise the cars integrity/longevity when you do mods. You combat this with tuning, hoping you know what's up.

That being said. Urethane, even hard ass 95a, has more compression built into it than you think. It's called young's modulus...
One hand washes the other, and one weak link causes a chain reaction. Mount goes bad. Puts strain on axle, and tranny case on harder laucnches/braking. Engine, and tranny trying to separate causes clutch to slip.

The concerns I have for this mod are of overtaxing the stock sleeve over time, and warping it. I've heard the urethane is fairly robust.
That is a nice classic RySE-R1