Hey, gang--

I finished the install of the new Hypercoil 300/200 springs on Wednesday, and can honestly, flat-out tell you that they are wonderful.

The ride is firm, but not harsh over bumps. Ride height is about 1 inch lower than stock, and one inch higher than ProKits. Just perfect, IMHO.

In my opinion, my SE-R feels like a totally different car than it was before. Even though the harshness is gone, the transitional abilities are a step above what ProKits had to offer. The car stays flat and goes where you point it.

There's my short summation of these GREAT springs. I only put 5 miles on them on Wednesday, before managing to grenade my pressure plate on the highway. :(

Chris Scarpulla, you are the man. :)

Thats good to hear. I cant wait to get mine!

Greg, glad to hear you like them. I am still waiting on mine. Actually, i haven't heard from isidro yet. I have called and emailed and everything. We will see how it goes.

Brent

Greg,

Does the Hyperco springs give more oversteer than factory springs?

Glad to hear good things about our new springs. Can't wait to get mine. When I get them:rolleyes:

Darren--

I didn't get a chance to really get wild-n-woolly with the springs, so I have no idea about how they handle/perform at the limit. I installed them and drove around town for a little while.

Later on, I grenaded my pressure plate. So, end of my analysis of Hypercoils for quite some time, until I get that repaired.

-GP-

Hey Greg, what makes you think you blew your pressure plate up? The noise we herd when you started out? I dunno about that, there were no holes in the tranny bell-housing...or where there?:confused:

I thought I broke my PP, too, then found out through research and asking other people about their symptoms that I had broken an axle. It was true. I found where I had snapped the axle inside the diff.

Greg --

What kind of bump stops are you using? Any problems with bottoming on your limited test drive?

Thanks, and good luck with your drive train.

Bill Conner

I'm using stock-ish bump stops, transferred over from my old Tokicrap setup.

Ryan--
Did your clutch cable get terribly loose when you snapped the axle? That is the one, single sign that tells me it's either the PP or TOB. Conversations via AIM with others on this forum have only reinforced that notion.

I have yet to jack the car up and do a thorough look-see. I'll get to it on Wednesday, and take things from there.

-GP-

Greg,

When my axle broke, I thought it was my clutch just like RySER did. It *felt* like the cable got lighter, but its hard to tell because the Key Value/JWT pressure plates are SO light already.

Anyway, can you shift through the gears with the car running? If you can, I bet your clutch is fine. That's the one key thing I ignored and then immediately assumed that my clutch bombed on me.

Good luck!

Nope, it'll only go through the gears when the engine is OFF. Which is why I've landed at the pressure plate (or possibly the throw-out bearing) as the problem.

-GP-

It could also be the rivets on the disc snapping or the spring popping out. Either will do the same including the aboved mentioned. This is speaking from experience of course but most likely its the t/o bearing.

Its311Pete, at face value, the Hypercoil spings will increase understeer. The stock springs have only a 15 lb/in front-to-rear rate differential whereas the Hypercoils put you at 100 lb/in. Increasing front suspension stiffness relative to the rear will increase understeer.

That said, it's a rare monkey that doesn't also install big sway bars. The bars will ameliorate the extra understeer. No suspension jiggery-pokery will eliminate power-on understeer in a FWD though it's easy to get transition oversteer if the radius and length of the curve is long enough.

Never installed progressive springs before - does it really matter if the closely spaced coils are at the top or the bottom?

-Aaron

(waiting for his !@#$! springs. :)

motivational struts still available:D

Got my set about a week and a half ago and then ordered some rubber bits, thrust bearings, stock style bumpstops, and new mounting plates from Greg at Mossy.

Installation went smoothly in my driveway yesterday and I had an impact wrench to help me out. The only tough part that warranted some beer drinking was trying to align the rear upper mounting studs into their respective holes with only one person. A bottle jack and a 4x4 piece of wood solved that dilemma as it held the bottom of the spring/strut assy as I crawled back into the rear seat to start the nuts on the studs. I installed the close winding of the springs towards the top. Makes it easier to blast out road debris with a hose when the widely spaced coils are at the bottom of the perch. I zip tied the rubber coil insulators to the coil to prevent them from spitting out.

Dropped the car back down on all fours and took it around a few bumpy blocks. Came back and measured...and the measurements are consistent with other's measured drops. Very subtle on stock rims and ride height is great.

AGX's were set on 2 for the front, 5 for the rears. This set really does soak up the big bumps and dips way better than the stock setup. The progressive spring rates seem to really help keep the chassis off of the bumpstops. Braking and accelerating are very much different from the 100,000 mile stock setup. Dive and squat are markedly reduced, and turn in is much sharper than the previous wallowy stock suspension.

I got an alignment today from Westend Alignment in Gardena, CA. with me in the car. Caster was conservatively set at -1.3, caster evened out to 2.1 (Driver's side is maxed at 2.1 until I get a new lower control arm...collateral damage from an Ohio sized pothole), and there's a slight bit of toe-out in the rear. If you're thinking of alignment in Southern California, Westend does a great job and Darin is pretty cool to work with. He can corner-balance, mount tires, etc for you as well.

Took it back home and picked up the wife at work (its her car anyways), and drove the long way home on Sunset Blvd and south on Beverly Glen. The car handles well and soaks up irregularities well. The only time I hit the bumps were on railroad crossings above 35mph. If I adjust the AGX's to a stiffer setting, I'd probably stay off the jounce rubber. Cornering is flat. Still on stock rear sway bars and rubber bushings all around. Tires are Dunlop SP8000 on stock rims (195/55R14).

Lemme see if I can get installation photos and before/after's up...


Jimmy

From another thread.


Just had the springs installed today with new AGX struts. Chris's Neighbor is the man! So far the springs are awesome. The drop is not severe. Looks pretty stock to me. Probably because my struts were super shot. Drove around and the springs and struts soaked up everything that was on the road. This is on the 2 front and 4 rear settings on the AGX's. Enjoying the ride alot now. The ride is not very harsh. I will be driving around a little more and will post afterwards.

It's been a few days now and a auto-x since I installed my springs. I also built and installed a rear STB at the same time .
My commemnts are pretty much like everyone else, cornering is much more flat, turn in is crisp, and looks are great also.
Ride comfort isn't comprimised alot, it really isn't that bad, bumps are not harsh, just a little more disturbing than stock.
On and off throttle the car moves very little.

Auto-Xing, Well it was the 1st. event that I wasn't on a wore out 170k suspension and suck ass tires. So you could say with the springs, AGX's and Azenis it was a HUGE change for the better. I was doing things with my car I didn't think was possible. The car seemed to understeer a little more than it use to but then again I haven't got alot of expirience setting up my AGX's and playing with tire pressures on the Azenis. I truely believe with a little more fine tuning I will be as good as a Koni/GC setup on a Classic.

Good job Chris C. , Rick C. and Hyperco !

SErpise in WV. What stuts/shocks do you have?