Has anyone heard of simply swapping a different wastegate on, say a DET, in order to get more boost, like maybe a 10 or 12 lb wastegate. I've been wondering about this as a cheap means of getting more boost, as opposed to buying an expensive boost controller.

Thanks! :)

my old mechanic who works on 300Zs a lot, used to drill a hole somewhere in the wastegate to gain a couple psi. He said it worked fine, but I don't know if I would try it. why dont you just buy a cheap MBC?

Your old mechanic is a monkey. That is ghetto.

Ben. Why bother doing this when you can just run a MBC at 10 psi all day. You don't need to switch your boost up and down with the T25 because you can only run around 10 psi before you start approaching the limits of your injectors and MAF. www.boostcontroller.com

Get the Hallman boost controller. It is easier to adjust. The Hallman and the Joe P both have the same internal valve. It's just the adjustment knob that is different. I've personally run my time in my signature with the Hallman. HotshotSR20 has run a 12.9@107 with his Joe P MBC. People will say MBC's suck all they want because they have no experience with it. My boost never spikes nor does it creep. Get a good ball and spring MBC like the Joe P and Hallman. YOu can't beat the price. STay away from the bleeder valve type boost controllers.

when we put a DET in NoClassic's car, he was talking to JGY and jason mentioned sticking an open vacuum tee in the wastegate line. we tried it, and it works like a charm. brought boost from 6.5 to around 9psi, no spiking or surging, and whenever you want stock boost again, you just stick a vacuum cap(with zip tie :D) over the open part of the tee, and voila, 6.5 psi. VERY poor mans MBC. cost- about $.75 for the tee

when we put a DET in NoClassic's car, he was talking to JGY and jason mentioned sticking an open vacuum tee in the wastegate line. we tried it, and it works like a charm. brought boost from 6.5 to around 9psi, no spiking or surging, and whenever you want stock boost again, you just stick a vacuum cap(with zip tie ) over the open part of the tee, and voila, 6.5 psi. VERY poor mans MBC. cost- about $.75 for the tee


now thats monkey engineering, I like it:D

#1
Or just make your wastegate actuator rod adjustable
what you need is a small pump with a very accurate pressure gauge inline between the pump and the end of the tube where you connect it to the wastegate. You pump in 10 PSI, and then adjust the end of the wastegate rod so that is fits back over the lever, making sure the lever is in closed position (pushed back towards the direction of the rod). Tighten the lock nut on the wastegate lever and replace the circle lip. Remove your pressure equipment and replace regular hose to wastegate actuator.

#2
and/or if you want an even higher initial peak boost value, simply T into the wastegate line a small sealed volume, such as a small aerosol can. This will allow boost to flare a bit, as the can needs to fill with pressurised air before the wastegate starts to move. This can be a surprisingly effective modification.

***
I personally wouldn't use a bleed valve though.........remember this metered air and it usualy takes more than just a little bit to make a boost changes.

Yeah, I know about MBC's but never hear good things about them and from my experience with messing around with making ball and spring valves and bleeders etc, etc.. they just don't work very well. They will either spike like crazy or do weird things, so I'm assuming an MBC will do the same thing. Maybe not.

Ben. Numbers don't lie. My car and Steve's car would not be running our times if the MBC did not work. The Joe P and the Hallman are VERY good MBC's. Some of the best in the market. Greg Perry has one. Look at his times. You know the ball/spring valve that those two MBC's use? It's from Mcmaster-Carr, which even Mike Kojima recommends as a good cheap bang for the buck MBC. Trust me on this one. It's only $50 shipped to your door. I have nothing to gain by trying to get you to buy a MBC, other than to stop stupid misconceptions. The people who say MBC's don't work have never tried a good one, or have absolutely no experience with them. I will put my name behind you getting one of the two MBC's I have listed. In FACT. Give me a few bucks for shipping, and I will personally ship out my OWN MBC to you so you can try it and see how wrong most people are. I guarantee you that you will not want to return my MBC after you've tried your car at 10-12 psi.

Check this out even though I said in a previous post that I don't recommend it........thats only if you don't know what your doing.

Anyways you know the stock T-fitting that comes with the DET that goes in-line between the actuator and intake pipe after the intercooler well that T-fitting used to go to the stock boost control solenoid on a JDM vehicle. Well what I did was hook it back up in-line between actuator and intake pipe after the intercooler and put the little yellow cap over it and zip tied it.........took a small nail heated it up and put a small hole in the yellow cap as a bleed and all I can say is GOD DAMMMMMN!!!!!!! this mother F*&%$# pulls like theres no tommorrow. It's ridiculous!!!!!!

How the hell are you supposed to control how much boost you run by poking a hole in the wastegate line? That is just ghetto to me.

Also, bleeder valves by nature lead to slower spoolup.

Originally posted by 92SE-R
How the hell are you supposed to control how much boost you run by poking a hole in the wastegate line? That is just ghetto to me.

Also, bleeder valves by nature lead to slower spoolup.

Because its a controled amount........it can only bleed off so much air through the small hole. If one really wanted to be ghetto you could by a few different size "T"s with the "l" part different sizes to allow for more or less bleed.

It works damn good but it was just a test, I will change to a small ball valve (like the type that controls the water at your house but many times smaller this way you can't get spikes like the spring and ball type valves) and because I want to keep the system closed and not bleed air to atmosphere.

I didn't punch a hole in the wastegate line a added a "T" in-line to it to let out a certain amount of air.

One could also achieve higher boost by putting a restrictor in-line (the kind that combines 2 lines together with a metered hole in the connector. just buy a few different size's and label them by boost psi they make.

Charlie, I ask you. WHAT SPIKES?!?!?!? Are you using a GOOD ball and spring MBC? NO. Am I? YES. As well as MANY forum members here. It does not spike so stop spreading lies.

Originally posted by 92SE-R
Charlie, I ask you. WHAT SPIKES?!?!?!? Are you using a GOOD ball and spring MBC? NO. Am I? YES. As well as MANY forum members here. It does not spike so stop spreading lies.

I'm not even using a ball and spring MBC, I have nothing against anyone using a MBC, more power to you. I'm just using a bleed for right know (ghetto).

Ball and spring MBC

pressure builds behind the ball until there is enough pressure to overcome the spring rate, correct?

pressure forces the ball to raise up against the spring, and it is prone to compress the spring more than it should momentarily (SPIKE) granted if you have a good MBC it won't do this, correct?

all im trying to say is its a spring and its (not the best mechanical device to bleed a precise measure of air) it prone to rebound and compress. Whereas a mechanical door such as a ball valve will always keep the air flow the same.

AM I WRONG?

Yes you are wrong. Ever heard of F=kx? To move a spring a certain distance it takes a certain amount of force to compress it. A spring is linear. A MBC works by screwing the ball and spring down so that the initial "rest" position of the spring is COMPRESSED. By compressing the spring, you have changed how much force it takes to initially compress the spring. Only ONE discrete force will compress the spring. Boost does not all of a sudden come on strong and then taper off like you are talking about. F= kx. K is the spring constant, x is the distance the spring has compressed or decompressed from it's natural rest position. This formula never changes. If what you are saying is true, than springs would have a variable K, which is not the case.

What you are thinking about is like when a car suspension compresses. The reason the car sort of pogo's, sinks down and levels off, is because when you hit a bump, your car's weight goes up, and comes down, which is not linear because now you have an added force. MOMENTUM. The actual force compressing your spring on your suspension is actually more than the natural weight force of your car because of this momentum from gravity. That's why the spring will compress more temporarily, and come back up.

With boost, a certain pressure will deliver a certain force. It never changes. There are no other external forces driving it.

Ben. Numbers don't lie. My car and Steve's car would not be running our times if the MBC did not work. The Joe P and the Hallman are VERY good MBC's. Some of the best in the market. Greg Perry has one. Look at his times. You know the ball/spring valve that those two MBC's use? It's from Mcmaster-Carr, which even Mike Kojima recommends as a good cheap bang for the buck MBC. Trust me on this one. It's only $50 shipped to your door. I have nothing to gain by trying to get you to buy a MBC, other than to stop stupid misconceptions. The people who say MBC's don't work have never tried a good one, or have absolutely no experience with them. I will put my name behind you getting one of the two MBC's I have listed. In FACT. Give me a few bucks for shipping, and I will personally ship out my OWN MBC to you so you can try it and see how wrong most people are. I guarantee you that you will not want to return my MBC after you've tried your car at 10-12 psi.

WOW! That's very convincing. Let me ask you a few questions then. Are you running with stock injectors/MAF/fuel pump for the DET (I'm assuming you have). To my knowledge and some experience with fuel pressure gauges, techtom, etc, it appears safe to run up to about 10psi or so on stock equipment. I've heard of some running 12. Perhaps a run or two at a drag would be ok, but I would not run above 10 daily. 10 seems like a nice round number.

Next, where can I get one? (Simple question :) )

Thanks for your input!

have you guys seen the insides of a Greddy Profec B or similiar electronic boost controller? did you know those have the same basic internals as a MBC? the electronic one will only give you adjustablity from inside the car, and a few other things like how fast the boost comes up, etc. EBCs arent that expensive though, you can pick up profec b's for approx $300 or so.

bleeding off boost is a really ghetto way of making more boost, and is prone to spiking, and giving you irregular boost depending on temp, humidity, and barometric pressure. it is beyond not being recommended.

also, putting a large, empty container to create more boost will only create a quick spike of boost, that you would have to do a lot of math to determine how much of a spike. once the container is full, boost will settle right back down to wherever the wastegate is set to.

just spend the $50 or so on an MBC if you want more boost but dont care about being able to control it from inside the car. i have set mine at 10 psi and left it there for months.

manual boost controllers works for me. :) Buy a dual stage solenoid and you don't have to fiddle with boost. Right now, I have low boost controlled by wastegate, and high boost by the controller. I run around everywhere at 9-10psi, at the flip of a switch I am at 15psi.

so, what did your probe run? whats in it?

Originally posted by HotshtSR20
so, what did your probe run? whats in it?
14.7@95, i can't drive. best trap 96. It's well, very stock. :p 129000 miles, stock engine,tranny,clutch.

$20 ebay cone filter, 2.5 crush bent exhaust after 1.75" downpipe, boost increased to 15psi. that's it for now.

2.2" 60ft, and the shift time from my 1st-2nd is horrible. so the time could go down a little more pratice. and it has a few other minor mods that don't count in HP...