Hi Guys,

Would you know if there is a difference between the GTi-R and Bluebird DET and S14/S13 DET conrods? I know that the lengths are the same but what about the conrod bearings? Are the bearings the same size also?

What about when someone orders a set of aftermarket conrods from HKS or JUN or CROWER or ARGO or from whoever. If the after market rods are going to go into a GTi-R engine is the rod designed for a GTi-R or is it a universal rod for a SR20DET?

Ivan

well.. from what I know... the rod bearings are the same sizes in all the rods. DE and all DET rods other than the GTI-R rods are the same I'm pretty sure. Here's a pic I took comparing a DE or non GTI-R rod to the GTI-R rod. It's a bit thicker..
http://www.forcedinductionracing.com/pics/GTIRvsDE%20rods.jpg
http://www.forcedinductionracing.com/pics/GTIRvsDE%20rods1.jpg

Someone might chime in on the power that these will support... I have heard 400whp on stock DE rods reliably.. and about 475-500whp on GTI-R rods safely. I've never pushed them to their breaking point though.. I know Crowers are good for like 700whp.. as well as the Eagles.. I think Pauter makes some for the SR20 too.. they should be good for that or more too.
Travis

Originally posted by unlucky
well.. from what I know... the rod bearings are the same sizes in all the rods. DE and all DET rods other than the GTI-R rods are the same I'm pretty sure. Here's a pic I took comparing a DE or non GTI-R rod to the GTI-R rod. It's a bit thicker..
http://www.forcedinductionracing.com/pics/GTIRvsDE%20rods.jpg
http://www.forcedinductionracing.com/pics/GTIRvsDE%20rods1.jpg

Someone might chime in on the power that these will support... I have heard 400whp on stock DE rods reliably.. and about 475-500whp on GTI-R rods safely. I've never pushed them to their breaking point though.. I know Crowers are good for like 700whp.. as well as the Eagles.. I think Pauter makes some for the SR20 too.. they should be good for that or more too.
Travis

Pauter Rods are good up to 1,100 hp

hehe... for the money.. they better be!

gti-r bearing are 19mm wide and de and bb motors are 16 or 17mm i can't remember.I just bought a set of eagle rod's and put a stock blue bird bearing in it and it look way to thin but it said you can put them in a de.Not sure if i can though? I think i mite need the gti-r bearing

YES! Muleman you have confirmed what i have found out also. The GTi-R rod bearing is 19mm wide and all the other SR20DE(T) rod bearings are 17mm wide.

The 17mm bearing has the tang (to stop the bearing from spinning) which starts right from the edge where as the GTi-R 19mm bearing has the tang starting about 2mm away from the edge.

When i put the 19mm bearing in this particular aftermarket conrod (they said it was designed for a GTi-R) the bearings did not match and were offset to each bearing half, which would have been overhanging the crank journal also (the bearings did not protrude wider than the conrod). I was told to use the 17mm bearing or a GTR bearing but i don't want to as it is going backwards and losing 2mm of bearing width. The conrods are getting modded now to fit the 19mm bearing.

Ivan

Just so happen the i have a set of 19mm gti-r bearing. I am going to try and fit them in my eagle rods and see if they fit better and don't hang over. what rods are you running? God I hope I don't need a gti-r crank

I have a set of ARGO rods.

Ivan

so your rods say they are for a gti-r? Mine rods say sr20de-(t) so that leves me with r&d time to find what bearing will work

http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1874442884 check them out

Side of box says SR20. Invoice says ARGO SR20 conrods to suit GTi-R.

Ivan

Ok I just put the gti-r bearing in and they don't sit in right .There offset and I mic'd them verse stock rods and they are the same width so I am going to use stock bearing's ...........good luck

I don't really see why U guys are spending over 500 bux on a set of rods that are NOT needed ? same with pistons ? I myself just got a set of brand new in the box rods and pistons for a GTi-R- got the #s stamped into the piston- 54C baaaby same goes for the conn rods 54Cs. Cost- pistons-rods-bearings from Nissan Motorsports less than 450 bux :) Good for 500WHP is fine. I don't see anyone here making 500WHP anyways... and living with piston slappn forged pistons is not what I wanna do. Also U forget that GTiR rods have a special wrist pin bearing that gives it almost 360 deg of oil lubing through it. GTiR rod bearings have 360 deg of oil also but require modification to the block if u use them in a 53J block. With the $$$ U save over forged rods- and pistons- about 1300 bux for set of JE pistons and Crower rods compared to 54C rods and pistons WITH OE rings for 450. U can buy a good T3/TO4E turbo and manifold with the $$$ left over. Is it really rational to use the forged parts at this point and time ?? Especially since most of ya dont push 500WHP+.

Originally posted by SentraPLAYA
I don't really see why U guys are spending over 500 bux on a set of rods that are NOT needed ? same with pistons ? I myself just got a set of brand new in the box rods and pistons for a GTi-R- got the #s stamped into the piston- 54C baaaby same goes for the conn rods 54Cs. Cost- pistons-rods-bearings from Nissan Motorsports less than 450 bux :) Good for 500WHP is fine. I don't see anyone here making 500WHP anyways... and living with piston slappn forged pistons is not what I wanna do. Also U forget that GTiR rods have a special wrist pin bearing that gives it almost 360 deg of oil lubing through it. GTiR rod bearings have 360 deg of oil also but require modification to the block if u use them in a 53J block. With the $$$ U save over forged rods- and pistons- about 1300 bux for set of JE pistons and Crower rods compared to 54C rods and pistons WITH OE rings for 450. U can buy a good T3/TO4E turbo and manifold with the $$$ left over. Is it really rational to use the forged parts at this point and time ?? Especially since most of ya dont push 500WHP+.

Mike~
What modifications do you have to make to the block to get the rods to work? I thought the only advangtage of the GTiR rod was the rod bolts...:confused: Misinformation is bad these days...
~Ryan

Dude my rods where 299 shipped and my pistons where 185 for all four shipped and I am running 30psi on this motor and gti-r piston and rod's WILL NOT HOLD THIS POWER and any thing over 20psi and that is if you have no detanation your piston will melt.I also have a stock det that I am going to run most of this year. my total is 484$ eagle rods and arias pistons

Where did you get arias pistons and eagle rods for $484!?! :eek:
Also, what is the bore on the pistons? 86mm?

Originally posted by muleman
Dude my rods where 299 shipped and my pistons where 185 for all four shipped my total os 484$ eagle rods and arias pistons

:eek: MY GOD... :eek:

I want some of that stuff I want some I want some...

The pistons where a great find ,they are 87mm and I found them on thepartstrader.com the guy that was selling them didn't know how much they where worth.He was trying to sell them for 145 but sum other dude offered him 155 so I gave him 175 and 10 for shipping brand new and the rods I bought from ebay brand new from go fast stuff 299 shipped but I think he is upped his price.

Originally posted by SentraPLAYA
Good for 500WHP is fine. I don't see anyone here making 500WHP anyways...With the $$$ U save over forged rods- and pistons- about 1300 bux for set of JE pistons and Crower rods Especially since most of ya dont push 500WHP+.

uhh...you dont have to buy JE pistons. Wiseco pistons, which from what i have seen, dont slap unless they are cold, are $475. Eagle rods are $375. both of these will carry you well over what our trannies can handle in any form.

also, most people making over 400 whp are not daily driving these cars anyway, so who cares if they slap a little.

i would not say that GTiR pistons are good for 500 whp. they are cast, and therefore just about as weak as the stock DE pistons, just with lower compression. if, at 400+whp, you get a single ping, they will become slag. whereas a forged piston is going to be more up to the abuse. just because someone made 500whp on the stock block (which i have yet to see, but please prove me wrong) doesnt mean that every one will last to that level.

so, basically, you can save $400 or so, and be more likely to have to rebuild your motor again (and when an SR20 goes from piston failure, it usually destroys EVERYTHING, so you can factor in the cost of buying another motor) or you could do it once, and do it right. that is my 2 cents, and what i plan on doing with my current, revved to hell and gone, motor (see my other post for details)

That is my point ,While I am in there for the extra money my motor will be strong as hell.Plus the piston were a great deal. I was going to get je from unluckey.