For the life of me I cannot get my car to get into timing mode. I get the car warmed up'd to normal temp shut car off disconnect TPS, start car, idle jumps to 1100rpm and cannot be brought down, even if I turn the idle adjustment screw all the way closed. Anyone have any suggestions?

I had a problem like this. It turned out I had an intake leak...so you might wanna look your IC lines over.

After I fixed the leak, I was able to get back into timing mode and get the idle back down to Earth to hear the lumpy idle of my S3's :)

Good luck!

Maybe its your S-afc settings? When I leaned mine out before it would raise the idle somehow. When disconnected and no settings it was fine. Just a guess ***.

Here what I done so far.

Car used to Idle at 2,000rpm timing mode

1) Checked IACV Air Regulator assembly (under intake plentium) http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Images/8816/88164g48.gif
turned out it did not have battery voltage present with KOEO (key on engine off) so the IACV Air regulator or (fast idle bypass) never shut, fixed problem by adding a new 12v power source to IACV, now IACV acts like it should and closes all the way after it times out.

Car know idles at 1300rpm in timing mode.

2) Found out that the Idle Air Adjusting Unit
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton%20Images/8816/88164g49.gif
is different between Automatics and Manuals, originaly I had a Automatic Avenir IAA unit on, swaped it out for the DE AAI unit.

Car know idles at 1100rpm with the idle screw turned all the way down.

Originally posted by SucKit
Maybe its your S-afc settings? When I leaned mine out before it would raise the idle somehow. When disconnected and no settings it was fine. Just a guess ***.

Can't be the SAFC I set timing before when I was NA and it went right into timing mode.

For the first year or two I had my car, I could always get my car into timing lock mode. In the last year, I haven't once got it into timing lock mode without a Consult. Sucks. :(

What if I were to pinch the hose that feeds metered air to the IACV and IAA unit? If it stalls, thats means its working, correct? If it keeps on idleing or idle comes down a little, it could mean that to much air is getting past the TB or there is another source of air leak somewhere in the intake manifold, correct?

I went around all IC coupling which are all SAMCO with T bolts and the intercooler itself with propane and there was no increase in idle speed also went around fuel injector insulators.

Originally posted by 92SE-R
For the first year or two I had my car, I could always get my car into timing lock mode. In the last year, I haven't once got it into timing lock mode without a Consult. Sucks. :(

That sucks, I did some searching and this seems to be a common problem. How does the Consult help with getting the car into timing mode?

You are not getting it into timing lock mode the right way. Use the FSM method. I usually just warm the car up to normal operating temperatures, around 190 ish. Then, rev above 3000 rpms 3 times. Then unplug the TPS. Then rev above 3000 3 more times. That is the proper method. If that doesn't work, Mike Kojima was saying it might have been my TPS, which it wasn't, because I have a JDM motor now with a different TPS and it still does the same damn thing. But try that method first Charlie.

The Consult can tell the ECU to go into timing/idle lock mode. You must be in timing/idle lock mode in order to set your timing or idle right. You will notice that if you have idle problems, turning the idle screw will not fix it. To properly set it without the ECU trying to force it to something else, you need to set it in timing/idle lock mode.

Thats how I get into timing mode. Warm up, unplug TPS rev over 3k 3 times then let idle and time away.

Still no luck, and I followed the procedures from SE-R.net to the letter a few times. A had to turn on all lights, defroster, Heater to get the idle at 750rpm, and timing was super steady and I timed it to 15 degrees, car feels better and quieter/smoother. I'm still not through yet, I want to get it to time the correct way.

Charlie,

maybe you are one of the rare and unlucky ones...

Check the first item in http://www.se-r.net/faq/problems.html .

There is a remote chance that your AAC operats differently than we assume.

Chris

Originally posted by hpro123
Charlie,

maybe you are one of the rare and unlucky ones...

Check the first item in http://www.se-r.net/faq/problems.html .

There is a remote chance that your AAC operats differently than we assume.

Chris

Thanks, and I think your right. I'll keep you guys posted.

I am having a severe problem with my NX stalling when stopping at lights and such.

Vito Biundo (vb1@cec.wustl.edu)
I had the same problem last summer and it was the AAC. valve setting (or more specifically the idle adjust screw setting). I had never performed any idle adjustments on the car. When I disconnected the AAC valve, my engine would stall.

It turns out that my ECU behaves differently than what is stated in the service manual. Disconnecting the TPS forces the AAC valve to fully open instead of fully close. A technician at the local Infiniti dealer told me that the AAC valve harness must be disconnected in order to adjust the base idle on my particular my model.

In studying this problem, I came across an easy way to monitor what the AAC valve is doing. I discovered that an intermediate connector for the AAC was located just under the distributor. Using a paperclip and a multimeter, I was able to watch the opening of the valve as I applied a load to the engine at idle (turned the defroster and headlights on). The service manual states that the potential between ECU terminal 113 and ground should be 9 to 14 V at idle speed and between 5 and 9 V at idle speed with a load on the engine (A/C on, turning the steering wheel, rear defogger on, headlights on). This was the method that I used to confirm that my AAC valve is fully open when the TPS is disconnected.

If you would like any more information on my discoveries in the area of idle adjusting and the AAC valve, let me know.

I put this here for any other unfortunate LM's that run into this problem.

Originally posted by hpro123
Charlie,

maybe you are one of the rare and unlucky ones...

Check the first item in http://www.se-r.net/faq/problems.html .

There is a remote chance that your AAC operats differently than we assume.

Chris

Something just occured to me, when I was NA I was able to get the car in timing mode on the 1st try everytime. I now have a W11 SR20DET, and I am using the AAC assembly thingy off of my NA engine, so why now won't it go into timing mode.

Well I started thinking back, when my car was down awaiting the W11 SR20DET swap my friend wanted to buy a JWT ECU but didn't want to give up his ECU because he needed his car, so since my car was down I let him use my ECU as a core and when he got the JWT ECU, he gave me his old ECU. So maybe the problem does infact lie in the ECU and not the AAC assembly. Hmmmm, thats the only thing I could think of that is different now.

Charlie,
I have posted this in the other thred, but I'll post it here as well. You should try dissconnecting the TPS *WITH* the car running after its at opperating temp and you've reved it 3 times! This worked for me and I had a similar problem that you have! Try it and let us know if it works!
~Ryan

i just tried that a minute ago. the idle stays at 750 where it should but i could not get it into timing lock mode. (im having the same problem as charlie). my exact procedure was:
drive around to warm up engine
without ever turning the car off, rev past 3000 3 times
pop hood and disconnect tps
check timing - not locked
rev past 3000 w/ timing disconnected
check timing - not locked
turn off car
kick tire and go back inside

Try letting the car cool down, run it for 3 minutes with rpms at about 2000 rpm, rev past 3000 rpm 3 times, disconnect TPS with car running, get back inside and go FROM 2000-3000(a little past 3000 rpm) 3 times. Then check your timing.

~Ryan

Lets do a little survey, those of you having trouble with getting the car into timing mode what ECU are you running and which engine do you have SR20DE or SR20DET.

I'm wondering if the stock EGT sensor (Cali vehicles) is the culprit with a SR20DET and stock DE ECU/JWT/BB ECU? How many of you DET'ed guys run with the sensor just pluged in but not in the exhaust stream? or did you add a resistor to it? what value?

mine is not turbo :mad: , and has no egt sensor (im in va).