Hey kids,

HEre's my story. Most of you probably know that my NX2000 is down on power. Thinking my injectors were dirty, causing a lack in power, I recently purchased a fuel rail and some injectors from FastNX on the forums for $60. I got them in, and the FPR was bent. No biggie, installed the rail anyway. A few days later, it wouldn't immediately start up, I'd have to give it gas first. I dealt with this for a few days, sometimes it wouldn't do it, sometimes it would. I figured the rail was messed up, or something.

One day, I get out of work and my car takes a minute to start, after pumping the gas pedal repeatedly, getting extremely pissed off in the process. When it started up, it ran POOR. Like, only on 3 cylinders. Again, cylinder #1 not firing. I say, fuck this, and take the rail out at 2AM 2 weeknights ago. I put my old fuel rail back in, and the car ran on all four.

Now, the car is doing the exact same thing. I don't have to pump the gas to get it to start, but it starts up, the idle flutters down to about 100rpm, then it runs rough for a sec, climbs up to 1500rpm (this is on a cold morning with the engine cold). Normally, it will climb to it's normal spot at ~800rpm.

Here's the kicker:

IF I turn my car to the ON position first, let it sit for maybe 5-6 seconds, the car will start immediately. What's the deal here? Is it the fuel pump, or what? One time I held it at the ON position and still hesitated to start. I don't know WTF is goin on here. What do you guys think? Need more information?

Today I found out that my fuel lines under the rear seat coming from the pump sprunk a leak, but wasn;t affecting start-up, I had no ill side effect yet.

When you swap fuel injector the small o-ring may look perfect but it expands just enough so that when you go to reinstall it, it smashes it self cause a fuel leak. Do this take your fuel rail off leaving the fuel lines intacked place a rag under neith the fuel rail turn the ignition to the on position and go check and see if you have a bad o-ring.

Ungh...I hate taking that shit off...I might try it. I also know my IACV/AAC or whatever is fuxed - my car runs bad when the engine is cold. I wish I could buy a used one in good condition from a fellow forum member (hint hint). I had such a time with FastNX's rail. It didn't fit right at all, I beat the freakin' hell out of my nice new polished valve cover with a wratchet - and made it not pretty anymore.

charlie2020, sometimes I get a buzzing sound when I cut the car off, could this be my fuel pump? It sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car.

Yeah I get the same sound sometimes, its the fuel pump primeing itself, should be nothing to worry about. You have a auto or manual transmission? I have a like brand new IACV/AAC of my W11 Avenir but its for a Automatic, and I think I have a IACV/AAC off my SR20DE for manual, have to look for it.

It primes itself after it shuts off? God...what could be causing this. Screw it...I'll just deal with it, keep the JDM injectors, put them in my JDM manifold, with new freakin' seals, and let them sit until I get the manifold put on. Hopefully that'll fix it, if that's what's the problem (a bad seal).

Charlie, I may in the future be interested in your IACV/AAC units, as long as they are competively priced. I also know that you are a pretty smart guy, so check out my post about my PITIFUL dyno numbers, AztekSE-R made a neat discovery using his mad photoshop skills. It appears I'm losing all my power above 4k rpm's...

Originally posted by silversx
It primes itself after it shuts off? God...what could be causing this.

I don't think it's your fuel pump priming. I have the same problem. Next time it happens immediately unscrew your gas cap and the buzzing should disappaer. I've heard it's the fuel tank trying to equalize pressure... there's a narrow passage way that starts to vibrate which causes the buzzing sound.

Steve

OK - I'll give that a try.