I need some opinion's i need to know if anybody has tried any after market valve spring's? such as HKS? Stillen?

What do you want aftermarket valve springs for?

Your best bet, although a bit expensive, are the JWT valve springs. They are only a bit stiffer than stock, but the wire they are wound from is very special and lowers the harmonics of the valvetrain.

Rob Cadle made a couple of hp on the dyno with the only change being these valve springs. They are required with the C series cams.

Lol, Stillen dosn't make valve springs.

I would match the valve springs with the cam manufacurer you choose. You only need springs if you go with a really high lift cam. The cam manufacturer should tell you if the cam you want needs springs.

Greddy, Tomei, HKS, Toda, and JUN all make springs (and of course as Geo mentioned JWT), and some such as JUN have more than one type.

If your not particularly mechanically inclined save yourself the trouble and just pick a cam that dosn't require new valve springs. You'll still see good results.

im just trying to go a little higher with the revs so i can stay within my power band. I was hoping 8,000 8,500

im getting head work done right now extrude honing the intake, Jim wolf injectors i already have cams and i was looking into valve springs while i was in the head already

Which cams do you have?

Chris

check out my dyno chart under the all motor forum (all motor dyno figures) right click and and copy then paste it into your web browser

S3's

Honestly if your buying valve springs ditch the S3s and move up to C2s or C3s. You can sell the S3s for a good chunk of the cost of the C cams. JWT can set you up with an ecu to match 'em that will rev out to 8k.

I hear Geo knows a thing or two about this all-motor stuff. :)

well im not looking to go with the all motor deal i plan to go turbo in the future so i would like to keep the s3's but i just would like to be able to puch the car a little higher on the RPM's

If your gonna go turbo you won't need to rev any higher;)

Forget revving higher.

First of all, unless you are running huge cams (JWT C series or even bigger) and really hog out the ports (not a simple port and polish), your power band will be below the stock redline. The only dyno chart I've seen with a hp plot that didn't fall off before redline was Rob Cadle's with the C2/C3 combo.

Second, the problem with revving higher is not just an issue of valve springs. It's an issue of valvetrain harmonics and the HLAs. Above 8k rpm with the hydraulic valve train of the SR20DE, you are going to toss rockers. The HLAs are not able to keep up with the rest of the valvetrain and the valves will start floating and POP GOES THE ROCKERS. To rev higher than 8k you would really need to convert to mechanical lash adjustment. It's not worth it however since power will fall off anyway.

Lastly, you would need some way to raise your redline in your ECU. Don't except JWT to do it. The highest Clark will set it is 7800 unless it's a full-on race car, and then it's only 8k that he'll set it to. Personally, I'd even stay with 7800 for the bit of security it provides and the fact the 200 more rpm are worthless anyway.

While I agree with all of you, HKS does offer springs and retianers as well. HKS also offer "Rocker Arm Stoppers". I have considered doing these as an upgrade to complimet my S3 cams, just for the sake of doing it. MY car is currently a 300whp street driven vehicle. Soon it will be a fully built, port and polished w/ oversized valves (hogged out like you were speaking of Geo). Even if I do these valve spring upgrades, I will never rev past 8k rpm. I only know of one person who has safely rev'd to 9k RPM and attested that there was no extra power found by revving up high.

My point is this, ifyou are striclty looking to spend money there are options available. If you're looking for bang for your buck, stick with what you've got and put the money towards your turbo kit.

John

If this is a turbo car, C1s will work great and do need valve springs. But if you didn't know, you can make over 400hp with "just" S3s.

Geo is dead on about the HLAs. There are several companies out there that sell kits to convert to mechanical lifters. JUN is one, but they are expensive and arn't simple. I believe JWT has done this as well.

If you really bug 'em, JWT can setup an ecu with no rev limiter. I hear Andreas has done this on several track cars. Appearently it helps as hitting the rev limiter at over 8k can cause the rocker arms to run wild and free. If your really intent on this, he's the man to talk to.

HKS Rocker arm stoppers are a good investment in any case IMO

Everthing here is just over repeated coments.

You do not need a solid lifter kit to go to 9000 RPMS. The race car I built is still Hydralic and the power does not start to drop off until 8700 RPMS. My street car revs to 8500 RPMS I do have C3 cams and if you want a comp to go past 8000 RPMs I can get you one. There are some very simple mods to make your valvetrain stand up to 8500-9000 RPMS but I will not get into that right now.

S4s work better than C1 cams, thats not a opinion thats a fact. S4 cams will give you a much wider power band. For all who say that S4 cam do not work good with a T25 just look at Dougnosser's SE-R in the turbo section. Check out his dyno curve and come up with your own opinion. If you do not know how to tune a car and do not know how these parts can work together then leave the repeated coments alone. All you need to do is know how to match you parts together to make them work together

As far as cams and valve float goes, the C cams have a lot of lift compared to duration. This causes the valves to open and close at a greater speed. C cams are more likely even with springs and retainers to float valves and toss rockers they will also cause valve float to occur quicker. Easier said the C cams will bounce on the seat. The S4 cam with about the same lift as C3 but with more duration will hold up better than a C1.

If you are NA use S4, C2 or C3.
If you are turbo I swaer by S4 cams The best all around cam there is.

Andreas Miko

Originally posted by Andreas Miko
You do not need a solid lifter kit to go to 9000 RPMS. The race car I built is still Hydralic and the power does not start to drop off until 8700 RPMS. My street car revs to 8500 RPMS I do have C3 cams and if you want a comp to go past 8000 RPMs I can get you one. There are some very simple mods to make your valvetrain stand up to 8500-9000 RPMS but I will not get into that right now.

Please explain.

I'm not surprised your race car didn't drop power off. Road cars are another matter.

Nissans SR16VE revs to 8200rpm from the factory with HLA.

So what are the simple mods?