Anyone try and put 10" free airs in the rear deck?

Cheers,
Charlie :)

I don't think they would get along with the trunk springs right there.

I've never heard of it being done. That isn't saying it can't be done. You would probably be better off fitting a set of 6x9's to the back dash, or getting 1 quality 10 for the trunk.

You will have to remove the trunk springs to accomplish this, not to mention in order for them to perform half decent, you will have to seal off the ENTIRE trunk area and make it airtight. There are more than a few holes in the rear deck which are most visible w/ the rear deck cover removed. Plus, you'd have to create an airtight seal where the seats fold down and seal off the sides of the trunk just to get the max performance out of them. And after all this painstakingly hard work is done, a well made box w/ a single 10 or 12 WILL outperform it with superior sound quality. If your primary goal is to save trunk space while getting some low end out of your system, I'd put all the work into putting a nice pair of 8's or 10's in the side panels next to the rear seats under the rear side windows. It would be much easier to seal off that area than to attempt to seal off a trunk area whose seals will begin to leak under pressure in little over a year. Going by my experience as an installer, I'd take a GOOD pair of 6x9's over a GREAT set of free-air woofers every day of the week.

Thanks for the replys!

I'd put all the work into putting a nice pair of 8's or 10's in the side panels next to the rear seats under the rear side windows.

I was thinking of putting 6.5 2ways in there, but I like this idea. For a sealed box you need a minimum of what? About .75 ft3? I'll pull the covers off and look around in there.

I'd really like to get a woofer under the glove box and get the bass up front where it belongs. Having the bass behind the sound stage sounds weird.

At first I was going build a ported box and port it thru the rear deck. I was going to mount it under the deck, after removing the springs. I don't think pulling the springs is a big deal. I could put a pnuematic lifter in, if it bugs me.

Then I did some study and came across the free air idea in the rear deck. I would mount them to 3/4 mdf and foam sealant to fill
in the gap. Or am I wasting my time, because free air woofers just suck no matter what you do?

Anyway, thanks for the replys. I just bought some S3s, so I'll just put a component set up front and run the Bazooka out back for now and tinker with the woofer in the side panel or under the glove box idea.

What do you think of the Lanzar vb6.1 6.5" component set up front? $65 at etronics.com Is Lanzar crap?

Originally posted by CharlieH98
Thanks for the replys!

I was thinking of putting 6.5 2ways in there, but I like this idea. For a sealed box you need a minimum of what? About .75 ft3? I'll pull the covers off and look around in there.

I'd really like to get a woofer under the glove box and get the bass up front where it belongs. Having the bass behind the sound stage sounds weird.

At first I was going build a ported box and port it thru the rear deck. I was going to mount it under the deck, after removing the springs. I don't think pulling the springs is a big deal. I could put a pnuematic lifter in, if it bugs me.

Then I did some study and came across the free air idea in the rear deck. I would mount them to 3/4 mdf and foam sealant to fill
in the gap. Or am I wasting my time, because free air woofers just suck no matter what you do?

Anyway, thanks for the replys. I just bought some S3s, so I'll just put a component set up front and run the Bazooka out back for now and tinker with the woofer in the side panel or under the glove box idea.

What do you think of the Lanzar vb6.1 6.5" component set up front? $65 at etronics.com Is Lanzar crap?

Some 10" subs can go as small as 0.66 or 0.5 cu. ft. for a sealed box. It all depends on the sub that's selected. I have seen it done most successfully in a Checy extended cab pick-up using two Kicker Solobarik L7's. Looked and sounded good and virtually invisible, with no loss of interior room. Have seen a pic of a 200 with a similar set-up, and I will post it if I find it.

A box ported through the rear deck will sound good if ported properly and if crossed over properly, it won't detract from the front stage at all. And as far as Lanzar products, I used to love them. I ran their amps myself (2 Opti Drive 100's and one 500) and were thoroughly impressed with their clarity and overall sound quality, but they were bought out a few years back by Pyramid, and their products seemed to go downhill ever since.

If you pull off the sub under the glove box thing, I'll be very impressed personally.

Ok guys.. You've got me thinking. I personally love bass, it's a weakness really. But if I could find a way to fiberglass in the rear panels to fit 2 10's. That would be excellent. I am a kicker fan myself, so that's an even bigger plus. Time to call my brother.. He's the audio pro. lol I think he's not going to like this project.

I tinkered some this weekend. You can get a 8 in the side panel easy. I doubt you could squeeze a 10 in there in a suitable box. We've got .4 cu.ft. in there tops. Removed some metal from the body, drilled out the masonite panel, and reinstalled the vinyl over the masonite. I'll build the box and install a Rockford Fosgate Punch HE2 RFP3208 8" 4ohm dual coil subwoofer and just pop the panel over it.

I'm going with one woofer now, 'cause it's all I can afford. If you did a 8 on each side with suitable amp and cap. This setup would bump hard! I'll post up some pics when it's done.

Cheers,
Charlie :)

RIGHT ON!! Can't wait to see the pics Charlie! That sounds like a great plan. I'm going to do some tinkering this week, and see what I can come up with.

Originally posted by CharlieH98
I tinkered some this weekend. You can get a 8 in the side panel easy. I doubt you could squeeze a 10 in there in a suitable box. We've got .4 cu.ft. in there tops.

Knew I'd find it sooner or later.
10" sub in side panel. Check it out.

http://members.rogers.com/streetshock/sub_p1.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/streetshock/sub_p2.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/streetshock/sub_p3.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/streetshock/sub_p4.jpg

All pics should work. I checked 'em myself. ;)

Very Nice! Looks like I have another project planned.

Damn! Those 10s look good in there. I'd have to get a grill to keep the rugrats fingers out of them :D

Cheers,
Charlie :)

Have I opened up the gool ol' can of worms? ;)

Hey Wicked:

My amp's specs are as listed as follows:

50x4 @ 4 ohm
65x4 @ 2 ohm
100x2 @ 4 ohm
It's bridgable and 2 ohm stable

Can I run it bridged at 2 ohm? Like 130x2 @ 2 ohm

Until I get a better amp, I was going to run the woofer bridged @ 2ohm.

Cheers,
Charlie :)

Matt,

The speaker is a 10" sub. The box is a combination of 1/2" MDF (part of the front) and fiberglass for the rest. It wasn't hard to do (if you are handy.) As for airspace...well...it's not quite enough for a 10" sub. If I remember correctly it came out to somewhere in the neighborhood of 0.6 cu in. So to get the desired effect I had to "stuff" it with fiberfill. The sub sounds great, for what I need it for.

Hope this helps you. If you have any questions, let me know.

Arthur Gralec.


I emailed the guy from those pics. Man do I have a project...

That is a sweet setup! Bass with out giving up all your trunk space!

i have so many projects and i haven't started one of them yet due to school
thanks for adding to the list!

Originally posted by CharlieH98
Hey Wicked:

My amp's specs are as listed as follows:

50x4 @ 4 ohm
65x4 @ 2 ohm
100x2 @ 4 ohm
It's bridgable and 2 ohm stable

Can I run it bridged at 2 ohm? Like 130x2 @ 2 ohm

Until I get a better amp, I was going to run the woofer bridged @ 2ohm.

Cheers,
Charlie :)

General rules to follow:
An 8-ohm mono load is equivalent to a 4-ohm stereo load.
An 4-ohm mono load is equivalent to a 2-ohm stereo load.
An 2-ohm mono load is equivalent to a 1-ohm stereo load.
A 1-ohm mono load is equivalent to a 0.5-ohm stereo load.

Considering the ratings you posted, I would say no. Sounds like it's maximum capability is at 4-ohm mono, or 2-ohm stereo. If there were listed power ratings at 1-ohm stereo (?? watts x 4 @ 1 ohm) or 2 ohm mono (?? watts x 2 @ 2 ohm) for your four channel amp, then I would say yes. This basic theory applies to any two channels operating in stereo mode, or bridged together into a mono configuration. Going below the suggested ohmic loads can (and most likely will) cause amplifier instability and/or damage. To get your maximum power from your amp, you would be able to run two 4 ohm subs in a bridged config. safely, or 4 2-ohm subs (not recommended) in a stereo config.

About the sub in the side panel, it is one hell of a project. To all that attempt it, I wish them the best of luck. :cool:

I actually have 2 10" pioneer free airs i have pics but have no idea how to post em but i basically have a flat carpeted box bolted in behind the seat so when i lower my back seats you can see them i like it and it hits just right but its not hard to do its quite simpal.



Jason

Thanks Wicked. I didn't think it would handle 2ohm bridged. Time for a better amp :D

I built a pair of boxes and have materials for more. I'm only going to use one, so the other is up for grabs. It's fits 8" or 10" woofer with a mounting depth of less than 4 5/8" volume is .35 cu.ft. 3/4 mdf with reinforced corners prewired with screw style connectors. Box is designed for Rockford Fosgate Punch RFZ3408 8" 150wrms woofer.

Rockford Fosgate Punch HE2 RFP3208 is too deep.

Install is easy: cut out metal from body, screw box in hole, inject foam insulation, remove vinyl from side panel, cut hole in side panel, replace vinyl. Tools needed: sabre saw or sawsall, electric drill.

I'll have a web page up soon.

Cheers,
Charlie :)