Just had a question about my 97 200SX SE-R ? I just hit 45,000 miles and my car is starting to hesitate like when I hit the gas it feels like it stalls a bit then takes off, so just wonder what would be causing that and what needs to be done at 45k ? Also was told never to use add-to-gas fuel injector cleaner like Redline, is that true ???

Yes thats true and i have the same problem

Mine felt lack of power till 3500 than the power just kicked back in for some reason

Well if you cant use fuel injector cleaner are you able to use a throttle body cleaner and at least clean out the throttle body and intake manifold ?

clean the throttle body while the car is off...i wouldnt risk getting that crap in my car...

Yo switch your wires out and I bet it will go away!! My car does the same thing when my wires are bad. It kind of stutters but only between 2k-3k rpms and sometimes 2k-3500rpms after that it feels like all the power kicks back in. New wires and plugs solved it right away. But I put cheap wires on and now I have to spend more money to get OEM wires.

Does your car do it all the time or only when its kind of warm outside?

Originally posted by Johnny wangwang
Does your car do it all the time or only when its kind of warm outside?

Well it does it when its warm or cold and doesnt matter what rpm's unless im past like 4k and step on it...

I bet its your wires. Mine did/does that now because I have cheap wires on it. I replaced my wires with some ones I bought off ebay new and the problem went away but it came back because they are cheap wires. If I were you I would replace my wires AND plugs though.

PS dont pull your wires out while your car is warm cause the bottom part will stay stuck on the spark plug and youll have to pull it out with pliers. (its a pain in the ass). Also twist the wires while pulling.

So basically a tune-up is needed hmm probably be good to change the fuel filter then too...

I heard injector cleaners occasionally and in moderate amounts is okay, but large amounts, or frequent amounts eat away at seals and especially the "O" rings around injectors. I don't know if that's true. I use it about once every 10,000km.

You can also get them ultrasonically cleaned for around $150 for a set of four. Less, if you remove and replace the injectors yourself.

But stalling and stuttering at low rpms could also be a clogged air filter. Have you checked that?

Air filter is fine so gotta be plugs and wires, hmm speaking of plugs what are best, im thinking of going to the dealer and getting the parts.

Mine does it too, and I have new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter. I have IACV issues though, can't get my idle stable. pinching the blowby hose has me thinking I don't have an intake leak. So I don't know what the problem is. Getting really sick of it though.

Since testing my symptoms all lead to these things here and I was typing them so I can put them on a sacrificial garage use paper, I thought I'd share them with you guys who are having similar problems.

Unstable Idle

1. Check EGR valve for sticking.
2. Perform Power Balance Test
When disconnecting each injector harness connector one at a time, is there any cylinder which does not produce a momentary engine speed drop? If not got to step 6.
3. Check Injector
Does each injector make an operating sound at idle? IF N.G. check injectors and circuits.
4. Check ignition spark
If N.G. check coil, power transistor and circuits (EF&EC 84.)
5. Check spark plugs
6. Check fuel pressure (after filter depicted)
a. Release fuel pressure to zero (refer to EF&EC 191) Pressure should be 36 psi at idle. If N.G> check pump and circuit.
7. Check O2.
a.Set "Heated oxygen sensor monitor" in Diagnostic Test Mode II. (EF&EC 50) Turn ignition switch to on. Turn ECU test mode selector fully right, wait at least 2 seconds, turn selector fully left, start engine and let engine warm up until coolant temp is in the middle of the gauge. Run engine at 2K for 2 minutes.
b. Maintain 2K rpm and check to see if red ECU led or malfunction indicator lamp goes on and off more than 5 times during 10 seconds.
8. Check for intake air leak.
Pinch PCV hose, does engine speed rise? If so there is a leak.
9. Check IAC screw for clogging. Disconnect TPS and try to set idle to 750 +/- 50 RPM. If N.G. check for IAS clogging or throttle valve clogging.
10. Check compression pressure.
Standard 178 psi, minimum 149psi with a amx of 14 psi difference between each cylinder.
11. Check ECU harness.
11a. Check ECU power supply and ground circuit (EF&EC 73).
12. Try a known good ECU.

Engine Stalls after Decelerating

1. Check IACV-AAC valve.
When disconnecting IACV-AAC valve harness connector, does the engine speed drop? If N.G. check IACV-AAC valve and circuit (EF&EC 121).
2. Check IAC screw for clogging. Disconnect TPS and try to set idle to 750 +/- 50 RPM. If N.G. check for IAS clogging or throttle valve clogging.
3. Start at step 2 in the Unstable Idle diagnostics.

Lack of Power and Stumble.

Follow steps 6 and 8 in the Unstable Idle diagnostics.

OEM wires. NGK plugs. Did that fix it?