i went today to delear to clear my airbag light that was done, under engine
on their computer they got:

MULTY CYL MISFIRE
[P0300]
TIme: 1t

a day later my check engine light came on ?
i have all bolt on's s3 cams and stock ecu ?
anyone have any idea i strongly believe my cams are installed wrong :mad:

Is your car ODBII ? I'v seen a couple ODBII cars throw that code because of a lumpy idle.

yeah it is a 99 se-l i think it is caused by cams

I have a 98 SE with s4's with the same problem. the light comes on for a week and then turns off for a week, but the code never clars no matter how many miles I drive after it turns off. I've tried everything. Except cam gears. checked the plugs, wires, coil, pulled the plug wires and checked for spark. I'm thinking it might be the huge overlap of the cams forcing the new fuel air charge out the exhaust before the cam closes the exhaust valve. As for the problem being OBDII, Every SE-R from 95 up is OBDII aND I have never heard of this problem with anyone else till now. It might be the different ECU program that is in 98 and up cars.symptoms are: My idle is rough, My car dies sometimes, it has a hard time cold starting, and it is gutless below 2500. If i step on the gas below 2k, my car boggs bigtime. I have been talking to Ben at JWT to try to resolve the issue. As for incorrect installation, there is only one way you can install them because the single dowel pin. if you could install them any other way it would be one rotation out of phase, and then your car wouldn't even turn over.

I have a 98 SE with s4's with the same problem. the light comes on for a week and then turns off for a week, but the code never clars no matter how many miles I drive after it turns off. I've tried everything. Except cam gears. checked the plugs, wires, coil, pulled the plug wires and checked for spark. I'm thinking it might be the huge overlap of the cams forcing the new fuel air charge out the exhaust before the cam closes the exhaust valve. As for the problem being OBDII, Every SE-R from 95 up is OBDII aND I have never heard of this problem with anyone else till now. It might be the different ECU program that is in 98 and up cars.symptoms are: My idle is rough, My car dies sometimes, it has a hard time cold starting, and it is gutless below 2500. If i step on the gas below 2k, my car boggs bigtime. I have been talking to Ben at JWT to try to resolve the issue. As for incorrect installation, there is only one way you can install them because the single dowel pin. if you could install them any other way it would be one rotation out of phase, and then your car wouldn't even turn over.

I am almost having the same problem as you - my car has absolutely no BAG until around 4000 rpms. I know u said 2500 - who said the cams could only be installed one way because of the single dowel pin? It could still skip on the crank. How long have you had your cams in for? i just put mine in yesterday. s4's, 95 se-r.

I am almost having the same problem as you - my car has absolutely no BAG until around 4000 rpms. I know u said 2500 - who said the cams could only be installed one way because of the single dowel pin? It could still skip on the crank. How long have you had your cams in for? i just put mine in yesterday. s4's, 95 se-r.There is not enough room for the chain to skip a tooth on the crank. You guy's sure ya have 20 pins between the timing marks on the cams? An ODBII car will throw a code with a lumpy idle.

Have you guys checked your timing with your S4's? I set mine to ~17* and I can take off in 2nd gear from a dead stop. And I still have scary top end...Stay tuned for 3in exh and cam gears.

O

I have had my S4's in for a year now, done everything but getting a new chain and taking it to a nissan dealership, and it is still the same. I've swapped distributors, checked for vac leaks, got cam gears, and checked and played with the the chain placement on the cams to make sure i didn't skip a tooth on the install.

I know i am misfiring and it is not just a false code. i can feel it, especially while driving at 2000 rpm. it also gets worse when i use anything higher than 85 octane (that's 87 for you sea level peeps)

I ran the cam gears with less overlap for a while (5deg retard intake, 5deg advance exhaust), and that helped the idle a little and it was more driveable, but i lost a noticable amount of top end power. but it idled well enough that I could time the damn thing, I noticed that I had to crank the distributor almost all the way to get it remotely clsoe to 15deg adv. According to JWT that means the install was off a tooth.

I opened it up again to see if the marks on the chain lined up, they did, I did every possible combination of advancing, and retarding the cams with no positive result. I ended up changing my cam gear timing back to stock and the car runs better than before i got the cam gears!!! go figure. I still pull codes and my dist is still cranked as far as possible, but my car doesn't die, and i have decent drivability, it just misifires below 2500. I'm totally lost.

I think i'm gonna just put my oem cams back in when i get out of skoo for winter break and sell the s4's, maybe get some milder cams, i dunno. I hjave learned with this car that you can only do so much witha daily driver, after that, get a project car!!!! $$$$

if your dist is advanced all the way, then your cam timing is off. if the marks on the cams line up on top, i would say that you are off a tooth on both cam gears. you need to go one tooth back to rotate the distributer away from the full advancement position. that is your problem, i would put money on it. pm me if you have any questions.

well. if i have to advance my timing all the way to get it to run correctly, then that means my cam must be retarded. so if i advanced my exhaust cam, then that would advance my timing, and my dist wouild be in the right position. if i retarded my exhaust more, that would require me to advance my distributor more to stay on timing which is impossible since i already have the dist advanced as far as it can go.

Since the cam gears are 36 tooth, that is a 10 degree offset. so, i tried these combinations

0exh:0int
0exh:10adv int
0exh:10ret int

10adv exh:0 int
10adv exh:10adv int
10adv exh:10ret int

each config made my car run crappier.
that was a scary process. i was so paranoid i was going to bend a valve. i hand cranked the engine each time before turning it on.

anyway, it didn't work.

I have heard rumors of vacuum leaks that only the dealership could find,
and i have also heard of the 98/99 ecu's taking a shit for no reason and having to replace it. just rumors though.

you need to pull off the cam gears and advance each sprocket one tooth towards the front of the engine to advance the dist. like i said this is only if you have your 20 pins between. don't try to do this with the the adjustments on the cam gears, your timing is off on the chain.

that is what I did. I put the sprockets back to zero timing and moverd the sprockets on the chain. So I did aexactly as you described. it wouldn't matter how i did it anyway, cam timing is cam timing no matter how you do it, provided your chain isn't stretched and the tensioners and guides are not worn.

On the side: that might be the prob though, but cam timing could correct a worn tensioner at least a little, and i didn't feel too much slack even with the engine off.

do you have any other suggestions? if not i think i'm going to have to take it in to the dealer and shovel out $50 for a diagnosis.

where does the dist. have to be for you to hit 15 deg? do you even hit 15 deg? unless you have a bad distributer, i can't think of anything else. can you get the car to idle in timing mode?

like i said, it is advanced almost all the way. if you mean timing mode as in pulling the TPS on the trottle body, yes. I just got a reply from Ben Pila of JWT here si what he said.

First of all if the installation of the cams was done properly and exactly as the instructions specify, there is no reason in the world why the distributor would have to be cranked all the way in it's adjustment slot to get the timing to 15 degrees unless the cam timing on the sprockets with the chain is incorrect. All of the stock SR20 engines have the distributor in the center of the adjustment slot so if it is not, then you need to get the engine back to top dead center and pull the valve cover to check this again. Something is definitely wrong. You must have the cams installed so that the distributor is in the correct position. It does no good to keep going on about the install until this problem has been corrected.

Also note that if you are not using the factory crank dampner (under drive crank pulley or something else,) it could be possible for the timing marks to be incorrect. We have seen this many times. You might want to manually watch a screwdriver in the spark plug hole on #1 when at top dead center and slowly turn the crank pulley before and after your top dead center timing mark to ensure that your piston is actually at top dead center.

Note that there are a specific amount of chain roller links between each of the dots on the cam sprockets. Compare with our instructions and also note the cam lobes point a specific way and the camshaft sprocket locating dowels also point a specific way when installed properly.

The number one cause of camshaft problems is incorrect installation.

the thing is my car barely runs if i advance my exhaust cam 10 deg to get my distributor to theoretically be at the center of the adjsutment slot on the dist. The reason why i say theoretically is because the car rusn so bad when i advance the cam, that there is no way i can time it so i don't know if it really is timed correctly.

I think i'm gonna try the screwdriver thing to make sure the timing marks on my UR pulley are correct. It runs best when i have it timed off of the 15 deg mark that is on the pulley, so how could they be wrong? sounds more to me like they are trying pawn this problem off on another company. I'm not blameing them for the problem, but I would like some help since they made them, and they should know the effects of them.