Alright, heres the deal. I purchased piping from an avenir motor that is already flanged for a BOV. The bov piping is the same thing as the piping off of a DSM car and so here is my problem. The part w/ the flange is made to fit on the TB, so thats not a problem, but the part after the BOV goes down to I believe 2.5 in piping. Again, not a big problem. But this is what I have troubles with. The way the piping bends, I dont think itll line up w/ my FMIC and even if it does, the endtanks on the FMIC are the same size as the piping, so I can't slide the piping over the end. I also cant clamp it off w/ a coupling because I'm afraid the flexable piping will just bend and cause a major leak. So that is my problem. What should I do??? The piping that the BOV goes on fits nice and snug inside the piping and all I need is a few clamps to hold that together, but if I cant get the piping to work w/ the IC, its pointless to run the pipe to the BOV flange. Is there a way I can make 2.5 mandrel piping work w/ this setup? I had originally planned on just doing the DIY piping like on floridasr20's site, but I figured this way I wouldnt have to deal w/ welding a flange into place and the BOV I got was like 15 bucks from JGY. Any suggestions??? As soon as hotmail stops being gay I can have a picture of the piping Im working with for better reference. TIA!!!

-Mike

Get a small 2.5" pipe that reduces to about 2.25 on the other end, slide the smaller end into the rubber piping. Then use a silicone hose coupler on the other end.

WHy can't you use a coupler again? Your using flexible piping????

Its hard to see, but is that the BOV flanged pipe your talking about??
http://pluto.imagemagician.com/images/boostsr20/DSC00649.JPG

cant you cut it? and get another piece welded on?

Thats the piece. Heres a picture, and yes the piping is flexible, to a certain extent. What size piping did you use to make that work 97SE-R C2?? Thats the exact piece if Im seeing it right. Take a look at the picture, let me know what my options are.
[/IMG]
http://jupiter.walagata.com/w/majestical69/bovpiping.JPG

-Mike

Well, in my pic you can see how I routed my coldside. It goes through the hole through by the fender well. (where a CAI plumbs) It cost about 75 $ to make the coldside and that pipe goes from 3 1/2 down to 2". So just use a 2" pipe and some couplers/clamps. BTW you'll definately be better off with Hard pipes for piping. Rubber ones tend to expand when hot and under boost. From my experience anyway.

Did you use 2 inch for the cold side and 2.5 on the hot side?? Or How did you work that? If you used 2, how did you connect that to the IC b/c i think my IC is 2.5 inlet/outlet. Thanks for ur help man!!

-Mike

Thats the piece. Heres a picture, and yes the piping is flexible, to a certain extent. What size piping did you use to make that work 97SE-R C2?? Thats the exact piece if Im seeing it right. Take a look at the picture, let me know what my options are.
[/IMG]
http://jupiter.walagata.com/w/majestical69/bovpiping.JPG

-Mike

did you buy that piece off someone on forum? or were you the one selling it

I bought it off hybridDET.

-Mike

I used 2 inch for hot and cold side. My I/C has 2.5" outlets as well, just buy a reducer coupler from 2 1/2-2". 2" is plenty for a T25 or even a T28.

Where did you find the reducer? Ebay? Or is there a cheaper solution? Im sorta runnin outa money...

-Mike

2 of the cheaper places, ebay is probably your best bet, but make sure whatever you get its a 3 ply coupler at least.
http://www.bakerprecision.com/purosil5.htm
http://www.alamomotorsports.com/bp/reducer.html

Jamie at PowerTech Imports www.powertechimports.com can set you up with a reducer coupler for a very good price. Call him up, and tell him I sent you. :)

Toll-free # is listed on the website.

Sweet, thanks guys!

-Mike