How to install this? I took off the rod that goes to the tranny but it wouldn't let me slide it all the way off because of the bolt that is welded there, so how does it go on? Thanks Chad.

It's a pain in the ass, if you look above the bolt you will see 2 other bolts that attach the peice to the chasis. I had to undo these bolts in order to make the bar side off.

Shit just as I suspected... thought there was an easier way.... ok thanks man. Chad.

Oh yea, the stabilizer bushing is a little tough to replace. Had to do mine back when I first bought my car. I couldn't figure it out, so I dished out $10 in labor to have my mechanic do it for me.

I just put in my shifter bushing last week, it's a bitch to put in. Those 2 bolts that hold that shifter bracket are extremely difficult to remove unless you take off the crossmember. I can post pics if you want. Oh and the bushing made very little difference in feel (shifting still feel clunky), but I think it's due to my sagging driver/passenger mounts. My windo-weld mount ain't looking too good either! You need to see pics to understand ;)

I just put in my shifter bushing last week, it's a bitch to put in. Those 2 bolts that hold that shifter bracket are extremely difficult to remove unless you take off the crossmember. I can post pics if you want. Oh and the bushing made very little difference in feel (shifting still feel clunky), but I think it's due to my sagging driver/passenger mounts. My windo-weld mount ain't looking too good either! You need to see pics to understand ;)

I really like the feel of mine. I have the bushings plus a B&M short shifter so it's money! :D

Wow. That sucks that you guys have to go through that to get it in.

The G20 (P10) takes not more than 15 mins once the car is jacked up or on car ramps. It was one of the easiest mods I had ever performed.

Aww man, now you guys make me not wanna do it. Get some pics up please.

I'm with Brandon on this. The shifter stabilizer bushing never took me longer than 35 minutes from start (jacking the car up onto stands) to finish (putting it back on the ground). This was on my SE-R, a couple of eggs, and I watched my buddy do it on his B14.

glad im puttin it in while the motor is out in my car :)

here I go with another 56k killing spree

http://www2.hawaii.edu/~jescasa/esbushing/es1.jpg
If you need to remove the crossmember, use two scissor jacks. One holds the motor up at the tranny, and the other one is used as a helper when realigning the rear motor mount bolt. Alot of people complain about realigning the rear bolt, but trust me, a scissor jack will make the task ALOT easier.

When taking off the crossmember, first take off the bottom bolt of the front dogbone mount, and remove the 2 crossmember bolts up front (they're all 14mm I think). You also need to remove 2 bolts that hold the front splashguards to the crossmember. Put your scissor jack underneath the middle of the crossmember and take off the rear bolts, and the bolt that goes thru the rear motor mount. The jack will keep the cross member from falling to the ground when you remove all the bolts.

When putting the crossmember back on, first put on the front crossmember bolts, then put on the dogbone mount bolt (put the scissor jack under the crossmember to help you raise/lower the crossmember as much as you need). Don't fully tighten the bolts yet. Now you can move on to the rear motor mount. Use the scissor jack to minutely raise/lower the crossmember until you can align the rear mount so you can slip the bolt through it. Then put on the 2 rear crossmember bolts. With the help of the scissor jack, I took off/put on the crossmember in about 20 minutes. Easy!

http://www2.hawaii.edu/~jescasa/esbushing/es4.jpg
look at all the room you have when the crossmember is out of the way. It'll still be a pain to get your wrench up there to loosen the 2 nuts on the shift linkage support bracket, but without the crossmember in the way to taunt you, you'll be OK :)

http://www2.hawaii.edu/~jescasa/esbushing/es7.jpg
here's the shift linkage support bracket that needs to be removed in order to get the old bushing out/put the new bushing in. Only one of the two nuts are shown.

http://www2.hawaii.edu/~jescasa/esbushing/es6.jpg
that shift linkage support bracket attaches to the black bracket with the 2 holes. I heard somewhere that the people who didn't remove the crossmember used voodoo magic to turn their arms into snakes, and only then could they loosen the 2 nuts here. :tongue: If anything, at least try to get those 2 nuts off before taking off the crossmember.

here's the old, soft 'n squishy stock bushing and new ES bushing.
http://www2.hawaii.edu/~jescasa/esbushing/es5.jpg

and the large washer used to hold the stock bushing in place:
http://www2.hawaii.edu/~jescasa/esbushing/es8.jpg

I didn't put this thing back on.


and here's pics of my busted windo-weld mount:
http://www2.hawaii.edu/~jescasa/esbushing/es2.jpg
http://www2.hawaii.edu/~jescasa/esbushing/es3.jpg

talk about hosed! Hope that prothane groupbuy starts soon...

Boy, that's a lot of work to get that bushing in.

All I did was remove the nut, slide the shift stabilizer bar out and off of the bolt. It just dropped down. I then proceeded to nudge the old bushing out. Once I did that, I inserted the two halves, then bushed the brass fitting in to secure them and pushed the stabilizer bar back onto the bolt. re-installed the washer and tightened the nut down.

I do have PR motor mounts, but wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it.

and here's pics of my busted windo-weld mount:
http://www2.hawaii.edu/~jescasa/esbushing/es2.jpg
http://www2.hawaii.edu/~jescasa/esbushing/es3.jpg talk about hosed! Hope that prothane groupbuy starts soon...

Kinda like a blacktop driveway. The old driveway begins to crack, so you fill in the cracks and seal it. Then a few years later those same cracks make there way up through the sealer.

I used Window Weld on my stock front "dog-bone" last year. Still no signs of cracking or stress marks. Let's hope it stays that way too!

my friend used to have a p10, and he's makin it sound like doing this for my se-r should be cake.

It should be, I managed to get my 12mm wrench right in there on my egg and get the 2 nuts. If the top nut didnt get stripped beyong all recognition, then it wouldntve taken me more than 20 minutes to do :mad: Any idea on how to get that nut off without a torch or something crazy like that?

I got the bushing on, but am having trouble remounting the cross member which i didn't need to remove to begin with. You're right about the 12 mm wrench getting up there without clearance issues. I think people who said to take the cross member off were trying to use a ratchet up there which is simply too big. As for your nut, did you strip the threads, or did you round out the hex shape? If the threads are stripped, I lack the experience to help you there. If you rounded out the hex, do whatever it takes to get some Vice-Grips up there, tighten and turn. You might have to take the cross member off for this. It's just a matter of clearance.
Right now my car is still on jack stands, I'll need my dad to fuck with the shifter and clutch inside the car to line the cross member back up so I can bolt it on, unless you guys have better ideas.

Rounded the hex shape. I think i found a replacement nut and im gonna try and get it up on the lift at work and see if a tech has something to get it off with. Probably put some anti-seize on there to prevent this from happening in the future.

All done after fumbling around for 3 days, like old people having sex in the dark, (roughly 7 hours cumulative).

Thanks again Ryan.

http://www2.hawaii.edu/~jescasa/esbushing/es1.jpg

Wordlcrafter, Im not sure I like you anymore. Youre in Hawaii and youve got this nice clean flat even smooth surface to work on with tools tools tools :rofl: . Me and Seikenman just finally broke my stripped nut free that holds that metal piece the bushing slides onto. It was like 8-9 at night, on a slanty greasy rough driveway with lots of rubble freezing our asses off. The only source of light was a stanley halogen light we used for our light source. GRRRRRRRRR :mad:

A 12mm ratchet wrench works perfect for that bushing.

Windo-Weld works great for motor mounts for about 6 months then it cracks out and your right back where you started. ES inserts, baby. :biggthump