* Remove battery
* Unbolt fuse box from battery pan
* Remove battery pan
* Disconnect top half of air box from hose(s) & remove
* Remove lower half of air box
* Remove resonator (?) (now exposed, next to air box)
* Loosen & disconnect cable from transmission end
* Optionally, remove driver's seat to give more working room
* Push cable toward firewall
* Laying on back beneath dash, disconnect end of cable from pedal
* Pull cable through firewall. Cable is between the brake booster and fender, far right side of firewall while facing it
* Disconnect cable from bracket beneath resonator - simply pulls out toward firewall
* Remove cable from bracket near brake booster, remove from car
* Install new cable in reverse order - adjust freeplay
* Reinstall other components

Not all the removal of stuff is absolutely necessary, but it makes the process easier. No pictures for this, unfortunately.

Also, getting to the point where the clutch cable attaches to the pedal is very difficult. You need a flashlight to see up into the area. You need small hands, or a helper with small hands, to reach up to disconnect/connect the cable. One should get familiar with the region (feel how stuff is connected) before doing the work.

Source: Jim Wright/Larry Weeks

I stick a coat hanger or wire from the cabin through the clutch cable hole and attach the pedal harware for the new clutch cable to the other end. Then you can pull the new cable into the cabin much easier than trying to stick you big hand in the little space that is available within the engine bay.

This is for my NX, not sure if there is a clearance issue with the SER's.

Also, if you have cruise control, the module is right above where the clutch cable bracket attaches to the firewall. I had to remove the cruise module to gain access to one of the bolts attaching said bracket to the firewall.

To remove that module, I had to:

Remove the driver side wheel and pull back the wheel well lining.

There are two 12mm (IIRC) nuts holding the cruise module on under the lining.

With the module out of the way you can access the cable bracket.

This is for my NX, not sure if there is a clearance issue with the SER's.

Also, if you have cruise control, the module is right above where the clutch cable bracket attaches to the firewall. I had to remove the cruise module to gain access to one of the bolts attaching said bracket to the firewall.

To remove that module, I had to:

Remove the driver side wheel and pull back the wheel well lining.

There are two 12mm (IIRC) nuts holding the cruise module on under the lining.

With the module out of the way you can access the cable bracket.

No need to yank out the cruise control module and also no need to remove the bolts attaching the above bracket to the firewall. Simply yank the cable out of the firewall by wiggling it left and right. Very simple.

PK

How will I know when my clutch cable needs replaced.



I am in the learning process.

^ it will become stiff. or even snap.

i just replaced mine, i lubed it with silicone and it was awsome! now its back to being stiff :mad: what type of lube should i have used? would normal penitrating oil work? i think i only got lube in the rubber boot area and it didnt seep into the accual cable housing.

Preventative maintenance: http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=119582&highlight=brake+cable

What if the clutch is adjusted all the way and u still have play in the pedal?
Are there different size brackets or are they all the same? What about for the g20's?

my nx cc was a PITA! i hate em. couldnt get my big ass arm up behind the clutch pedal..
matt